Noticed while motoring yesterday that our hour meter had quit working. The tach works fine "although not calibrated to the Balmar alternator".
Any suggestions as to possible fixes for the hour meter and also on the dip switch setting for the Balmar.
Thanks
Jim
Jim
One of the many posts found with a FIND on "engine hour meters."
http://c34.infopop.cc/6/ubb.x?a=tpc&s=329609511&f=829605811&m=948609811&r=358609811#358609811 (http://c34.infopop.cc/6/ubb.x?a=tpc&s=329609511&f=829605811&m=948609811&r=358609811#358609811)
Sorry I don't have any Balmar dip switch settings. A friend just put one in, I'll ask and see if he's recorded them.
Good luck,
Stu
Jim
I wish I had your problems. My hour meter stopped working a little over two months ago - when we took the boat out of the water for winter storage. Right now there is a blizzard under-way not a boat under-way. Some of you are lucky to be able to sail the boat year round. Oh well! I'm planning on going south next winter so I'll enjoy it year round. Merry Christmas to all and good sailing to those lucky ones.
On the tach and hour meter issue, I cleaned all the connections and reset the dip switches as per specs for the 25xp. The tach now reads 1000 at idle (was 1400) the switches were set backwards from the specs. The hour meter ran for 60sec then quit, after 5min or so started working again and worked the rest of the time I ran the engine.
On the vibration issue, I replaced all the coupling bolts, rotating the shaft 180 and checked the allignment, ran it at the dock for a while, but won't know for sure tell I get it out on the water.
Jim
At the risk of opening up an "old" discussion and generating many pages of discussion...
Our hour meter stopped working and the problem was traced to the molded gel plug which had overheated. Replacing that plug with terminals and the problem was fixed. Do a search on wire harness upgrade if you want to know more...