After a year and a half of tearing my boat apart and refinishing all the teak I could take off the boat!
ITS putting back together I have all my countertop templets into my countertop person as soon as I get the tops I can begin to put the salon area together.I have begun reinstalling all the trim in different areas of the boat. The V berth is complete door, shelf, drawer base and hanging closet.Every inch of the v berth fiberglass has been cleaned and buffed. I even got a thumbs up from the wife.
The head has new panels which really look good and cabinet has been reinstalled.I just received all the lights for the entire boat It just like christmas opening new stuff My first delivery was lights for the whole boat. I bought four of the small black lights 2 for the v berth and 2 for the aft cabin. The four other lights 2 will go in the salon 1 will go into the galley and one for the head.
This weekend will be more cleaning and buffing and reinstalling everything in the aft cabin
Dan,
Yes, I do know what's fun, that ain't it!
mlep : Ever go sailing??? :cry4`
A thought
Hey man! That's awesome news. Sounds to me like you're feeling the ease of pedaling down the slope of your project. Keep us posted on the progress.
I do enjoy a good boat project, especially when you start seeing things come together.
Quote from: Ron Hill on July 12, 2024, 07:06:00 AMmlep : Ever go sailing??? :cry4`
A thought
Not yet but when I do I will be sailing a completely refitted boat thats going to look brand new. :D
V berth has all it teak pieces back in place just need the new floor and a mattress and it'll be ready to sleep in.Even started to clean the brass pieces that were hanging on the walls
Dan, Looks great, really nice work.
more stuff cleaned and installed.
Love seeing it going back together!! Keep sharing photos.
well another great weekend with lots of progress with the V berth complete I moved to the aft cabin. I reinstalled all the panels and running trim along with the all the doors and installed both of the lights. I think it the lights really look nice. I don't have them wired that will be another weekend project. At that point I will install (not really sure if they have a name) the white leather covered board that cover up the wire chase. I took the old ones cut new plywood and recovered them with a little help from my wife. Those will be the last things I do in the v berth and the aft cabin
Love seeing the improvements. Keep the photos coming.
this weekend it was working on the head. Saturday I spent all day cleaning and sunday I started to reinstall everything.I can't wait for my countertops to be completed
I love it!! What material are you doing the counters out of?
7/8s Quartz light weight. The head and nav counter match the weight of the galley. Plus it can't weigh anymore than the waterlogged countertops that were on there.
Very nice!!! I have thought to do quartz in those two areas as well. I've been replacing the white laminate plywood with a different laminate over plywood. The table is done and it is subtle, but a huge improvement!
I see your in Seattle, My daughter lives in Seattle I am supposed to visit for my granddaughters 1st birthday this summer
It is a beautiful place to have a boat. The wind isn't always cooperative for cruising, but evening sails on the Sound are often a regular option. I will often go out after work and sail till sunset.
My daughter and son inlaw live in Issaquah the last time I was down there they brought me to port Townsend and I got to see the boat Tally Ho (you tube). Very beautiful place.
Port Townsend is a cool spot and Tally Ho is one VERY special project. I went up to visit Tally Ho once during the wooden boat festival. It was amazing to see it in person.
Last weekend was so hot I didn't work on the boat. this weekend I got a few more things put together. I got new shelves cut and scribed to the old ones, I also installed FRP panels on the door to the head. I also finished up some of the small items that I had left to varnish. I included a picture of what the old shelve looked like. And what the new shelf looks like. I covered the new shelf with white contact paper for inside the cabinet. I think it gives it a clean feeling.
Looks good. Nice to tick off some more items on the list.
This weekend I was able to get a few more small items complete on the boat. I finished the top panel on the head door. This week I found a couple of 1/4 sheets of plywood that are either teak or something that looks exactly like it. After a couple of hours on the table saw and taking the old rotten bulkhead to the table saw I was able to glue the panels together and put the original cap on them and make new bulkheads. One for the nav station and one for the galley. I will have to wait til the countertops are in to put the galley bulk head in. I plan on putting the countertop in first and then sealing it to the hull so if I ever get another leak it will leak on top of the counter and not underneath it.
I dig it. Keep the photos coming.
When I was building houses all the plumbing was copper. Now its Pex and to tell you the truth pretty darn easy. I ran all the pex to the anchor locker and set up the hot and cold manifolds. I was even able to pipe hot and cold to the head. I have the cold manifold connected to the output of the pump.
I think it will take one more weekend and Ill have all the plumbing completed.
I like it. I plan to do the same but out of Uponor/pex A
What a difference it makes under the sink not to mention all those old nasty pipes are gone. I wanted all this done before my countertops are done.
Added some stops for the faucets and put together parts of the cabinets in the saloon. Does anyone know which intake is which on the water heater I have looked up the manual but it doesn't say which one is the cold and which on is the hot water coming out. The two bottom hoses are the ones coming from the engine, those have not been disconnected. Does it even matter which one is hot and which one is cold??? I uploaded the tag that is on the water heater.
When looking at the connections for cold (in) and hot (out) the connection on the left is hot (out).
http://homeappliance.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/atwood_mobile_products/ehm6.html?p=1
Thank you I want to finish the plumbing today minus the supplies from the tanks
@everyone
On the water heater (Seaward, Attwood, etc.) the Hot is always the higher of the two. If they are at the same level then it doesn't matter.
my left one was the higher of the two. but just out of curiosity is there a reason why the hot is always the higher one?
Quote from: melp64 on September 23, 2024, 06:01:59 AMmy left one was the higher of the two. but just out of curiosity is there a reason why the hot is always the higher one?
@Dan
Because hot (less-dense) water rises so you want to inzie at the bottom and outzie at the warmest point.
Just like a home WH — although the cold supply is at the top, there is a dip tube inside so it fills the tank from the bottom up.
On a horizontal-lying tank like ours there's not much difference in height bottom to top. On a vertical WH like the Raritan it's more pronounced.
This weekend I finish all the plumbing with the exception of the aft tank supply. I need to find a filter that is small enough to fit under the sink. I had every intention to reuse as much as possible but as you see from the pictures I had to install new ball valves. I saw that I had a 3/4 line coming out by the toilet, so I was getting ready to run new when I traced that hose back to a thru hull Is that the way all boats feed the toilets either lake water or salt water? not quite sure what I'm going to do with that situation.
That's the way mine is plumbed. I added a small inline strainer before the toilet inlet to keep stuff from entering the toilet. I'm in salt water.
well I only have a few more weekends before I have to close it up. So far this weekend I wired all my lites to the existing wires( I hope they are good) I read an article on here about a shrink wrap that had solder in the center and when you heat it the solder melt and make a good connection I bought kit with a 120 pieces in it and it really works awesome. The black lights I had to add a piece of wire to to make them long enough to reach the existing wire. You need a little bit of room to heat the shrink wrap.
I am still waiting for my countertops to be completed so I can get them installed before I close the boat up for the winter.
A couple of people asked me what Im going to do in the winter, Im going to learn how to sew and make all my cushions.
I also drilled a 3/4 hole for the vent But I found out its really thick right there and I have to get a longer threaded vent so I can put a nut on it.
Those solder connectors are pretty cool. You do have to make sure your copper is clean though. If there is any dark or corroded strands, youll want to use some snad paper and try to get the bright. If the wire is tinned, this isnt an issue.
Strictly speaking, those solder fittings are frowned upon by boat electricians and not "approved" by ABYC. Their standards say you must have a crimp connection as your primary means of connecting. Of course there are lots of things owners do (including me) that are not up to their specs, but I do use proper marine crimps and heat shrink as they are easy to use and give me a bit more confidence that I did the job "the approved way". ;-)
That standard is no different than the electrical code that now says you have to have a plug on a range hood or a dishwasher. They want it to be able to be unplugged and replaced. How many times do you replace your range hood or replace the dishwasher in your home. The difference is that these LED lights last a long time If I have to change them Ill cut the wire and use another shrink wrap.
I am quite certain that the reason for the ABYC electrical code's requirement to crimp wires is NOT because they want them to be easily removable. Quite the opposite.
Quote from: melp64 on October 07, 2024, 10:50:48 AMThat standard is no different than the electrical code that now says you have to have a plug on a range hood or a dishwasher. They want it to be able to be unplugged and replaced. How many times do you replace your range hood or replace the dishwasher in your home. The difference is that these LED lights last a long time If I have to change them Ill cut the wire and use another shrink wrap.
INCORRECT!
We are not talking about crimped bullet terminals or 1/4" quick disconnect terminals (which would be for easy removal.) We are talking about crimped/adhesive heat shrink BUTT Terminals.
Solder-only connections are not allowed per ABYC for a reason and should not be used. ABYC does permit crimped-solder butts that are heated to seal the heat shrink and the solder flows AFTER they are crimped.
if you are unfamiliar with proper marine electrical methods, it's always helpful to ask before doing.
A butt joint you can easily take apart where the soldered one you can't. I certainly took enough of those apart installing the ones I did. Same Principle, but thank you for the information.
It may be semantics or your (misunderstanding) of what a crimped butt splice with heat shrink is, but they are permanent. They are NOT intended to come apart and if done properly, must be cut out to be removed or replaced. If you can pull it apart it was done incorrectly.
Well from Noah's last post you can see there isn't much difference between the two connections. But for guys that don't work with wires much I can say for 8 bucks and a heat gun (or lighter) the heat shrink solder connections were awesome and very easy to work with. I get the ABYC doesn't approve of these connections but from Noah's post you can see the only difference is that one is crimped and one is soldered, both make a good connection if it's done properly. Thanks Noah it's good to hear more than one side of an idea.
Non-crimped, soldered-only connections are IMPROPER on a vessel. NOT because ABYC doesn't approve them, and if you "don't know" proper marine wiring it's best to do your research before stating that they are "equivalent".
melp64— WOW! You apparently didn't understand my point. Crimp and solder butt connectors are NOT the same. I am not endorsing the use of soldered-only connectors, regardless of whether they have heat shrink or not. As they say "your boat your choice". But, I wouldn't use them on my boat.
One of the reasons that I like this site is there are people willing to give ideas and reasons why. You are correct I know absolutely nothing about Marine wiring. I read on this site that the solder connector were great to use. Simply stating that the ABYC doesn't approve or is not the code leave a question as to why? So I did research and those that are following here is the reason
Per ABYC (E-11.16.3.7), "Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit�". Further, crimping provides a solid mechanical connection resistant to "cold joints"� breaking under fatigue and removes strain.
With that answer it makes sense they want a mechanical connection because solder can crack from cold or movement. Now anyone that is reading this thread can make an informed decision. I have been using this forum to help refit my entire boat. The comments and information I have searched on this site has been outstanding. I hope that maybe someone will get something out of my learning and thanks to the folks that have help from this site
Noah your comparison between the two gave no reason to not use the solder only, and that's the point, if there is a solid reason state it for everyone to learn by. Had you stated solder might crack because of the cold solder or fatigue and this is why its code everyone reading would have gotten something out of conversation. Again the reason I read this site is to learn and help refit my boat, I am hoping to splash next spring but I know that I will have a lot more questions and will be reading this site for answers and help.
Mplp64:
Again you misunderstood(?) A cold solder joint has nothing to do with the ambient temperature of where your boat is located:
A cold solder joint is a defect in a soldered joint that occurs when the solder doesn't fully melt, resulting in a weak bond between the components. Cold solder joints can cause increased electrical resistance and may eventually lead to board failure.
I can second Noah's explanation of a cold solder joint. It isnt ambient temperature, but rather the solder not reaching the appropriate temperature during the soldering process that creats a risck for joint failure.
Per ABYC (E-11.16.3.7), "Solder shall not be the sole means of mechanical connection in any circuit�". Further, crimping provides a solid mechanical connection resistant to "cold joints"� breaking under fatigue and removes strain.
Guys I got it I did the research You can beat the subject to death my point was giving a reasonable answer such as the code and good advice is what a lot of people come to this site for, If I have a question about anything I come to this site and start searching articles. I absolutely knew that it had nothing to do with the Cold weather in my typing I didn't put in the word solder so it says cold solder, I went back and edited it.
Melph64: I am not "beating this to death". Just trying to clear-up any misconceptions of why soldering alone is not recommended.
This is what YOU stated (below) and is still how your edited post appears:
"With that answer it makes sense they want a mechanical connection because solder can crack from cold or movement"
Cracking from cold or movement is a misleading statement. Cracking FROM the cold is not what ABYC is concerned about. It is the integrity of a poorly done solder joint (aka, cold solder joint) and it being the only mechanical connection holding two wires together in a butt joint.
Noah
The secondary issue is that solder alone will creep whereas if the wire is crimped, solder wont fliw through the crimp. Therefore potential work-hardening and failure of the conductor cannot occur were the stiff soldered and flexible tinnned-only wire meet.
Guys : I crimp and then solder, if for no other reason - it holds the connector in place so I can put my Weller D550 2.5A soldering gun on the joint!! No cold solder joint with that gun!! :thumb:
A thought
Well I knew there would be some things on the boat I wouldn't be comfortable doing The electric was the first thing. Plumbing was the second but with doing things in pex made things a lot easier.
The electric I brought in a pro. That is one nice thing about running job sites is there is always someone that wants to help out. I had a electrician of 40 years come in help chase the wires and make sure everything that I had done so far was going to hold up. The PO had sliced and scabbed so many wires onto the back of the panel and then just hack them off. We pulled almost half a small garbage bag of wires that went no where. They had a lot of things wired with speaker wire. I don't have any speakers on the boat. We were able to get all the cabin lites up and running and the instruments by the wheel working.
Does anyone have a switch in the little cabinet in the head. Mine had a red switch like the one that is on the main panel but noting was hooked to it. I think the 110 power from the shore plug maybe goes to the switch and then to the main panel. because nothing was hooked up were guessing.
I have to admit it was pretty exciting to see lites on in the boat. Next weekend He wants to tackle all the 110 and check all the outside lighting like the bow and stern and see if we can get the light on the mast working.
Quote from: melp64 on October 12, 2024, 01:48:57 PMDoes anyone have a switch in the little cabinet in the head. Mine had a red switch like the one that is on the main panel but noting was hooked to it. I think the 110 power from the shore plug maybe goes to the switch and then to the main panel. because nothing was hooked up were guessing.
Not OEM, definitely.
Glad to hear you're making progress in all the fun fields of play: woodworking, plumbing and electrical. Ain't life grand? :D