I am the new to me owner of a 1986 Catalina 34 Tall Rig. Presently reading up as much as I can to learn what I will need when Spring 2024 arrives. (Boat is on the hard in it's winter cradle right now).
Even though I have sailed for many years on other peoples boats, I have not really familiarized myself with the nav and instruments available, as I am usually racing
- foredeck or at the mast. I now plan to undertake more leisurely cruising on the Great Lakes and anticipate a small crew or possibly single handing once the boat is correctly outfitted and I am able to build some degree of confidence.
At the moment the original wheel auto pilot does not work, the speed indicator is not believable, and I have no wind instruments or navigation of any type. About the only thing that does work is the depth gauge; good thing given the 5ft 7" draft!
Please assume I don't know what I don't know. I was first considering a Raymarine EV-100 replacement system for the auto pilot, plus an ipad with accompanying navigation software, but can't find any info on how these would integrate to allow for chart plotting a course, setting way points etc. More I look into it, the more complex it quickly becomes with systems and terms I am not familiar with, as well as some big holes in what I ultimately I hope to accomplish in terms of an affordable but (somewhat if not completely integrated) system, or at least a system where the components talk to each other. Thought I would tap into the collective knowledge and experience of this forum for advice and recommendations, plus perhaps some reliable reading resources to get me back on track.
Thank you in advance for your good input and time.
Welcome, Raymond.
System integration between nav instruments and autopilots is a fascinating subject. It breaks down simply: Yes or No.
The Yes camp says it's great for using routes.
The No camp suggests that most autopilots require a confirmation before a new course is actually implemented so it's not a step-saving device anyway.
I don't think integration is worthwhile or makes sense to me. I have an ST3000 belt drive wheel pilot and a handheld Garmin GPSMap 76Cx. Having them separate helps me keep my head outside the boat where it belongs. Changing AP course is not hard, a button push away. I placed my AP control head midway so I can easily reach it from either behind or in front of the wheel. I spend all my time in front of the wheel except for docking. I believe one shouldn't "be a slave behind the wheel." There's a few Single Handing 101 threads in the 101 Topics you might enjoy reading. I sail singlehanded by choice and with my son we sailed from San Francisco to British Columbia in 2016 with this gear and borrow large scale charts and cruising guides to harbors. I had one skipper who provided us with waypoints in his route feature for going up a river on a cruise back in San Francisco. He had literally a hundred of them in maybe 10 nm! I used four! :D
Congratulations on your new boat. Please familiarize yourself with the Critical Upgrades topic, too.
Very much a personal choice and budget driven question. I have a system on the high-end (cost-wise and complexity) It is a B&G fully integrated system with a below deck autopilot and networked multifunction displays and a suite of sailing instruments. Expensive to buy and install, but works well 90% of the time, like most technology. Like Stu, I mostly sail single-hand, but unlike Stu — I don't feel like a slave behind the wheel when steering, as part of my "sailing thing" is I like to steer the boat—but I don't have to if I don't want to and often don't on a passage. I like looking at my track (set on heads-up display) on the chart plotter while at the helm and when on autopilot I can dodge a degree or two Port or Starboard easily. I also sometimes use my autopilot on "wind mode" not "heading mode", which requires an integrated system. As they say—your boat, your choice.
I have an Raymarine C70 chart plotter with integrated ST60 instruments and a ST4000+ autohelm. I've only had the boat for a couple of years, but I find the "wind" mode very helpful when sailing singlehanded as it makes it easy to keep the boat pointed into the wind while raising the main.
When I purchased the boat, the chart plotter and GPS were not functional, so I had to disconnect the autohelm as I was getting "no data" errors and I wanted the autohelm working for the 12 hour trip to my marina. All I could do was put the boat on heading and hit the auto button to stay on course.
Once I got everything working, I've probably used goto waypoint once or twice and goto cursor a few times, so I don't really make use of any routes. And as Stu pointed out, you have to Ok the changes anyway, so it's not really much a help. But I do love the wind function. It keeps me from yelling at someone for not keeping the boat pointed into the wind.
I have an e127, i70 multi displays and an evolution wheel pilot with rudder reference. I OFTEN lay in a route and use the track function. With the rocky bottom we have here in the PNW I find it helpful as it will keep me on the line I drew on the chart. Just setting a compass heading won't allow for cross track error from current. It also allows one to know ETA information or even ETA to a given way point along the route. Additionally, I use the "wind" function a lot when out for a sail. It allows me to keep the boat set on a trimmed course for the sails and frees me up for sail tweaks and other skipper fuss about items.
I built my set up with used gear I bought off ebay piece by piece. Even the auto pilot is a collection of used bits... the wheel drive came with the boat attached to the failed st4000+ (had to install a new belt and clutch bits), the p70s control head was used, the rudder reference came with an as is sale of a s2g smart pilot kit that was cheaper than I could get the sensor by itself, and the compass/gyro gizmo was a used unit from a Florida used boat gear shop. It took a while to get all the parts, but the hunt was fun and I still saved enough money over buying a complete unit to make financial sense.
As for your unreliable speed, it could just need a new paddle wheel. Mine was un reliable at first until I swapped it out. It might also need a calibration too.
If you can get your instruments and auto pilot networked, you can use a multiplex wifi gizmo to make them all talk to a tablet running navionics which would even be able to do routs etc. Check out sailproof tablets. They make one suitable for daylight reading.
Hope that is helpful.
When I bought my C34 earlier this year, the ST4000 auto-pilot didn't work and neither did the ST50+ wind or speed. I have since installed the EV100 auto-pilot which works great. As far as I know, it is not possible to integrate the EV100 with the ipad. You would need an STng or NMEA2000-compatible chartplotter. This off-season I plan to purchase/install new speed/depth+wind transducers and the i70s display, plus the Axiom+ chartplotter/MFD, which will integrate with the EV100 and the other instruments via the STng backbone that I've already setup with the auto-pilot. A couple of others above mentioned about having to manually approve waypoint course changes. The Axiom+ allows you to auto-approve waypoints, so no manual input from you needed (of course you'll still need to stay nearby and keep an eye out for any hazards).
How was your survey? Any major projects on your to-do list?
Welcome Raymond,
I sail the Great Lakes mostly single handed some of my cruises have been over 1000 nm. I have a wheel pilot ev-100 that I'm happy with although I believe the wheel drive is not quite robust enough, use it 90+% of the time, but I've rejected a below deck drive. I intend to carry a spare wheel drive on my next cruise. I have a stand-alone B&G chart plotter bought as a factory rebuild. Use my cell phone navtronics apt for back-up but find it hard to see in sunlight. For me I see no reason to have it all tied together.
I belong to Great Lakes Cruising Club. Thier harbor reports are a great way to plan a cruise. Tonight Nov 16th is a webinar you may be interested in presented by their school I think there's a small charge for nonmembers.
https://www.glccschool.com/product/introduction-cruising-great-lakes
Also in case you don't know there is an excellent organization of Great Lakes Solo Racers. I was thinking of taking up the challenge, but started having health issues and the multi-night sailing didn't sound like a good idea. I did get many excellent tips from them for safely single-handing.
https://www.solosailors.org/
I would suggest you add boat information to your signature. Helps getting the best answers to your questions. Just see what others have done.
Jim
Quote from: AndyBC on November 15, 2023, 09:16:01 PM
As far as I know, it is not possible to integrate the EV100 with the ipad. You would need an STng or NMEA2000-compatible chartplotter.
It is indeed possible and you can get the tablet to "drive" the boat. I built one for a customer and it worked just fine. You would need a wifi gateway on your nmea network that the tablet would connect to. I have used this one on my own boat with success.
https://www.yachtd.com/products/wifi_gateway.html
Hi Raymond,
Welcome to the club! I was in your position 2 years ago and opted to splash some cash on a Raymarine system comprising Axiom chart plotter, i70 multifuction display, new Raymarine tri-sensor (speed, depth and water temp), a new Raymarine anemometer an AIS700 and a Quantum radar. I decided to keep the old Raymarine wheel pilot and it's head unit. Big mistake.
The advantage of buying a whole new set was that it was child's play to set up. Literally plug and play, though you do have to do a bit of boat yoga to run the cables.
I can have the chartplotter repeated on iPad but it's pretty clunky. Instead I run Navionics independently on the iPad and iPhone which gives me additional displays, while ensuring system redundancy.
A NEW Raymarine wheel pilot is an OK autopilot system, provided you use it for what it's designed for - light coastal work. It is not up to the job of sailing downwind in large swells. Ours broke 150 miles offshore leaving us to hand steer for two days. No fun at all. An old system is a breakdown waiting to happen. I wouldn't like to rely on even a new one when singlehanding during a gale.
One good reason for linking the A/P to the rest of the gear would be to let it steer by wind angle. But in two years I've never bothered.
If you need to save money go for the wind and water sensors, an IS70 multifunction display, and a new wheel pilot bundle. Use an iPad for a chart plotter and don't worry that it's not linked to the rest.
Next in importance is an AIS transceiver with Axiom chartplotter. This is an almost indispensable safety aid. We use it actively every time we sail.
Last, if you can endure the expense and pain, get a below decks A/P. Not easy to install in a Catalina but lovely to have.
Finally, whether you have a wheel pilot or belowdecks A/P, a rudder position sensor greatly improves the accuracy of the A/P. It's included in the below decks bundle, not sure about the wheel pilot bundle. (You can save a ton of money buying kit bundles rather than individual components).
Radar is used the least. But on one night passage with thunderstorm cells all around it was massively helpful and allowed us to steer a passage between them.
Most products do the same thing, but get there in different ways. Your best first step is to go look at the products and screens of all the manufacturers in person. You may find one fits your personality better than the others.
I single hand my 1987 MK1, and like Stu I don't like being stuck behind the wheel. I installed my system in 2016. I'm very happy with it, but it's antiquated compared to todays product offerings.
I went with Raymarine eS98 MFD at the Nav Station, i70 and i60 displays at the helm, DST800 transducer in STBD FWD salon locker, wind transducer at masthead, Quantum CHIRP 24 Nm radar on the mast, CPT110 thru hull Downvision Transducer under the V-berth drawer, all tied together on a SeaTalkNg network. In the cockpit I use a 10" Samsung tablet in a mounting bracket as a repeater of the chartplotter. I have a RAM mount on the Bimini, and one on the Dodger to mount it. The Raymarine App allows most, if not all, of the functionality of the expensive chartplotter, but the tablet is much cheaper. It connects to the chartplotter via WIFI so no wires to connect, and I can move it around in the cockpit. AIS is a Vesper XB-8000 tied into the network. My autopilot is an old school no frills CPT Wheelpilot. It is a stand alone device so not connected to the network. Point the boat where you want to go, flip a switch and it holds the course. Push a button to change course in single digit increments, 10 degree, or a full tack. Strong motor, waterproof, quiet, I love it.
BIG THANKYOU everyone, for providing some great feedback. Have read and reread your solutions to my similar challenge. Very informative. Seems I am on the right track - sort of!!
I have an ST4000+ autopilot. To be honest, I have not played with it yet, but on the advice of the previous owner had assumed it was inoperative as he had suggested. Lots to investigate further, but keeping an eye on the ultimate goal, and taking a modest approach here is where I am.,,,
1. Replace autopilot with EV-100 kit, wheel version. From my understanding to get the most from this, I will need some sort of wind instruments to talk with the autopilot. Also nice to have! Trying to determine best solution here, as unclear if the EV-100 supplied MFD will read/display the wind data (speed and direction) or if I need another display. Seems I would be purchasing redundancy if I purchase the entire dedicated wind setup (mast head instrument plus display) but uncertain. Want to be sure it works hand-in-hand with the autopilot to allow the sail-to-wind setting on the autopilot to be used.
2. So question is what would be the appropriate wind instrument set up. I can run cable in the mast as necessary, but understand a WiFi set up easy easier. However as I don't have wifi on the boat it seems like another rabbit hole??
3. Question - is it worth getting wifi installed now or maybe later? The answer maybe in my plan to use an ipad/Navionics software, but I appreciate it's another can of worms to integrate navigation with the autopilot, either immediately or down the road. (Interesting that the Raymarine Chart Plotters (more costly) uses Navionics.
And final question, as the legacy depth gauge and speedo still work(?) will these also be duplicates of the data provided with the autopilot display. (Maybe I'm confusing the included autopilot display capabilities with the MFD (i70) that seems to do everything???
Thoughts? Again, as you can I'm see somewhat confused. As I have just purchased the boat funds are a bit limited, so want to be sure the route taken isn't inadvertently introducing redundancies or unnecessary expenses. I did visit and talk with a Raymarine local dealer who seemed unable or uncertain to answer some of the basic questions and was also not offering any deals at the time, so not hugely confident.
Thanks again for you feedback and assistance on this journey.
To help clear the mud; the MFD is a Multi Function Display also called a chartplotter. The i70 is not an MFD, it is a display of data like water depth, temperature, windspeed/direction, GPS, etc. There is some overlap with the MFD in what the i70 display's, but you can plot routes on the MFD as one example. They are two different devices.
The MfD / Autopilot control screen will not REALLY give you wind data. It has the ability to show a couple small boxes of numerical data from the network, but not the graphical data most helpful for wind. If you already have legacy depth and speed through the water instruments, and they are presently working, you can get an ITC-5 unit from Raymarine that will accept the analog data from the wired speed and depth units and turn it into the digital signal for the nema 2k network. You can then get a mast head WIRED wind transducer and an i70 display which will show the wind speed, depth and speed through the water as a single instrument.
Once the autopilot and the wind instrument are networked onto the nmea 2k network, your autopilot will be able to use the wind data to steer to a given wind angle.
Hopefully that helps. Let me know if you have further questions.
Justin
Last fall I had to replace both my autopilot and chart plotter and since I already had the wireless Raymarine wind and depth instruments, I've had to address some of the integration questions you are asking about.
1. EV - 100 and wind gauge: While the EV 100 can be networked with a wind instrument, its not required. The trade off will be that the autopilot is limited to steering to just a compass bearing.
2. Wireless Instruments & Networking: To network my existing wind/depth instruments to the new autopilot & new chart plotter, I had to install a Micro-Talk router that links the wireless devices to the SeaTalk wire network. https://www.raymarine.com/en-us/our-products/marine-instruments/wireless-and-racing-instrument-accessories/micro-talk-performance-sailing-gateway
So if you go wireless and want to network the instruments, you might need to factor the Micro-Talk router into your cost equation. It also must be mounted outside and within a specific range of the wireless instrument.
And just to clarify, the wireless instruments are specialized and are not MFD, so they can not be used to run the EV-100.
3. RE: Wireless or wired wind instruments: I have mixed feelings about wireless wind because I find that its frequently about 5 to 10 degrees off. 2 years ago I had to send it back to Raymarine to get the calibration repaired after about 8 years of service. But recently I've noticed that is sometimes off. Perhaps that true with all wind gauges?
-Walt
Quote1. Replace autopilot with EV-100 kit, wheel version. From my understanding to get the most from this, I will need some sort of wind instruments to talk with the autopilot.
I installed an EV-100 autopilot. To get the steer to wind with the 2001 vintage Raymarine wind instrument needed to buy a "backbone" wire or adaptor, think that's what Raymarine called it. Works sort-of. I believe it steers to the wind instrument but the air up there is disturbed by the sails. Have the standard Raymarine mount attached to the front of the masthead. Works best when wind is on the beam. Most of the time the autopilot is set to a heading and I adjust the sails as needed. For me I wouldn't spend a lot of money or time to have the steer to wind function.
I do think the EV-100 works best with a rudder position sensor. I would recommend installing one if you don't already have one, it's the same as used on the ST-4000.
Jim
Raymond,
I've attached a .pdf file showing a schematic of the setup I installed in 2020. It might be helpful to start sketching out a schematic. A schematic is very useful to help you plan and visualize a properly integrated system to meet your needs. (and budget!)
My thoughts on your post from earlier today:
1. The EV-100 system is excellent. I previously has a Raymarine SPX autopilot that didn't work well and then failed completely. I debated moving away from Raymarine since they hadn't earned my repeat business but reports that the EV-1 sensor core was a significant improvement and the ubiquity of Raymarine at chandleries that I frequent made me give it a try. It is excellent for my purposes. I didn't even change the ST4000 Mk2 Wheel Drive from my old Raymarine system. (as far as I know the new one that came with the EV-100 system kit is identical to the one that was already installed... so I now have a spare wheel drive). I don't have a rudder position sensor. Others have reported it makes a difference but I'm OK without it. It can be added later if necessary.
The p70s display and controller for the EV-100 autopilot is good but, as Alex said, it only gives very basic wind information if you have wind input. It does allow you to "sail by the wind" steering the boat to a given wind angle. I rarely use that function. Like Jim H, I tend to use the autopilot to hold a heading or, in some cases, go to a waypoint. Although I have the capability, I don't need and I've never had my EV-100 follow a route except to test it to see how / if it worked.
2. I have the wired Raymarine short arm wind transducer with 30m of cable. It connects to the ITC-5 which converts legacy speed, depth and wind input to the STng Network (aka NMEA 2000) allowing the data to be used anywhere on the STng network including the EV-100 autopilot. I have no knowledge of wireless or Wi-Fi transducers but have heard some grumbling that the older wireless TackTick systems could be unreliable. Maybe true, maybe not. I didn't consider them when I was updating my system. If you get an i70s display, you don't need a dedicated wind display although you might prefer it. I can show wind graphically on my i70s display, my ST60+ legacy display and on my chartplotter.
3. As I said earlier, I have no knowledge of Wi-Fi marine instruments. It sounds like others have successfully integrated their iPad into their instrument system. If you have the ITC-5 converter, your legacy depth and speed data will be on the STng network and available for any compatible instrument to display. I use the i70s which is expensive but excellent. Depth is of prime importance to me and I can display it on the i70s, my legacy ST50+ and my chartplotter.
I'm very happy with my system. It suits my needs cruising Georgian Bay very well. I may upgrade my Element chartplotter to an Axiom at some point but other than that, I wouldn't change anything. Having said that, in my opinion, a B&G system like Noah has is the gold standard. It is expensive and not as widely available as Raymarine or Garmin in my part of the world but the user interface and the sailing software on B&G plotters is excellent.
Good luck with your project and keep asking questions.
My ST4000+ appeared to be inoperable when I purchased my boat in 2021 as it only displayed "No Data." I was so eager to get it working as I had a 12 hour sail/motor to my home port that I actually purchased a replacement on Ebay. It had the exact same error. After some time, I discovered that it would function properly if disconnected from the SeaTalk network. Without that connection I could not follow a route or hold to the wind, but at least I could steer to a heading. Of course, 2 hours into the sail, the autohelm belt broke and we had to manually steer anyway.
I did end up replacing the LCD on the ST4000+, but it's been functioning fine and I resold my backup on Ebay. Turns out my problem was a shorted GPS wire so the SeaTalk network was not getting GPS data.
Before you make any decision, isolate the ST4000+ and let me know what the display says. I have spend hours debugging my issues and I may be able to help.
Raymond,
I'm very happy with my Evolution wheel pilot, i70s wind/speed/depth combo and Garmin 73sv Echomap chartplotter. I also have an EmTrak B953 AIS. My setup is similar to Dave's. You can see pics at https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,11425.msg92088.html#msg92088. It lets me see the instruments from anywhere in the cockpit.
I use a Yacht Devices Wifi gateway (https://www.yachtd.com/products/wifi_gateway.html) to get data to devices including a dedicated device at nav table (Raspberry pi based with 10" display) and phone. I haven't figured out how to get the EV100 to take waypoints from a laptop, but it takes waypoints from the Garmin.
If thinking about wireless vs. wired wind instrument to simplify installation, rigger was able to install my wind instrument with the mast up. It took him and helper less than an hour.
Now's the time to be planning as you can shop over the winter. You can get i70s system pack (check BOE Marine) and EV100 Evolution Wheelpilot (Defender) today for around $2500 and you might save $200-$300 if you catch the right sales.
As the originator of this message, wanted to reiterate my thanks for the great input on this somewhat complex question. Here is where I am....
Seems I can't go wrong by starting with the purchase of an EV-100 autopilot kit. Top of my Christmas list :santa Only down side I see is that some of my legacy components could still be utilized if working, but given their age and the good feedback I have received on this system, thinking it makes sense to proceed. I am also finding there are considerable savings in buying a bundled package vs. piecemealing the components together. For the next stage may wait until the boat returns to the water as no doubt other things will come up as a priority once the 2024 sailing season is underway. Also have had hints from others that an ipad/navionics may be coming my way :appl so at least I will know where I am when off shore!!
My next thought is to address the wind monitoring solution. Going back and forth on wired/wireless, but leaning towards a wireless solution as this seems to make sense in terms of connectivity, both with a wireless wind transducer on the mast, and to connect the ipad Navionics with the autopilot (still unresolved). Found a cost effective kit that includes three items, the Raymarine wireless gateway, the wireless wind transducer for the masthead, and a portable dongle that will provide any data available on the network, in this case wind (only) as my speedo and depth gauge are legacy gear and may not connect until I network them (how TBD??).
As you can see I am being cautious, taking this in stages as I learn more about available solutions. Objective is that whatever I implement is extendable and can be integrated into my ultimate system. Interestingly, Raymarine stressed a limit of 50 feet for the height of the mast to be sure of a robust connection. I believe my tall rig is 47 feet, so should be OK. To be safe they suggested buying a Tack Tic (another new item not familiar with) installed on the mast to address reliability of the wireless signal, should I have problems. This would also better serve the mobile data dongle as I move around the boat.
With sailing short/single handed, very much hope to have a solution to keep the boat into the wind while am raising the sails, so continuing to explore and learn. Please feel free to comment on my path of action, particularly if you have experience in any of these components.
For info. in my travels and in the interest of sharing useful info with others I learned that Raymarine will no longer support Navionics since they have partnered with competitor Garman. Not sure if this presents an immediate or future problem, but thought I would share anyway.
Thanks again. And apologies for the long post!
I would suggest wired wind is better and more reliable if done correctly. Especially if you are in a geographic area where you unstep the mast for the winter. Also not sure about your info that Navionics will be unsupported by Garmin. Garmin now owns Navionics. It is possible they may kill it but most likely I guess they will keep it and/or rebrand it as Garmin?
Think you misread my message. No worries I do it all the time. It is Raymarine that may not support Navionics. You are correct in that Garmin is in partnership with Navionics. All over their chart plotter and other product packaging in the store.
Yes I did misread your post! Oops! Still, I am surprised that Raymarine would not support Navionics charts. I have B&G stuff myself, and they own C-Map, but still "allow" Navionics Charts to be used. Who knows that may change in the future too?
I have a raymarine plotter and run Navionics charts. That said, my gear is not brand new so the future might be different.
I'll throw another vote in for wired wind. I am not a fan of wireless for instruments. It does indeed solve a problem, but from what I have heard, the stability is not fantastic. Since you are hoping to keep your legacy instruments and transducers, an itc-5 is likely going to be part of your kit. That has the wind connection built in. I would seriously consider going wired.
I wanted to add wind instruments to my current B&G Zeus 7 chart plotter. When at the boat show in Annapolis this past October I took the opportunity to discuss this with the folks manning the B&G booth. Although I pulled the mast this year for much needed upgrading and repair I was still on the fence with wired/wireless. When I mentioned this to the B&G rep he strongly hinted that wired would be the way to go, and that's what I ordered.
On a side note, a fellow in the slip next to me with an identical boat (1988 C34 SR/WK) added wireless wind to his Zeus 7 and experienced all kinds of difficulty getting it to work, in fact he sold the boat before he ever got it working correctly. The new owners noodled around with it and got it working but the boat has been sold again and is now gone so I can't speak to its effectiveness over time.
Navionics runs just fine on my latest gen Axiom Pro.
I also looked at a wind instrument at the Annapolis Show this year. Wife said we should look at getting new instruments and she would like to add a wind instrument. As I shopped I got the same reaction from sales. "Should I go wireless" The answer was, ahhhhh...
well.....ahhhh. Then they said for our boat the recommendation was to go wired, and I did.
After 35 years the old knot and depth are still working fine, but when the wife says get new, who can argue with that. Did a lot of damage at the show this year, instruments, head, jib, dodger, not to mention the transmission work. Christmas came early.
I don't have any experience with a wind instrument or wireless connection. This is just my experience this fall.
Phil
I've got no experience of wifi wind instruments, but I do have a wifi connection to my Quantum radar. It works just fine - except when the boom is dead central.
Phil : I surely hope that the reliability of the wireless wind instruments had increased?? A few years ago I had a dock mate that was spending alot of time at the top of the mast reinstalling or taking down to ship back - his wireless wind instrument!!
I would think that now with MANY things going Blue Tooth that things have changed for the better ??
A thought
Revisiting this series of posts as the originator. Thought I would provide an update. I have now received a new complete autopilot system, the Raymarine Ev-100 Evolution Wheel(T10752) to replace my old inoperative system. Seems like more work to fix/upgrade the old system, after much reading. I will also benefit from the latest guidance/compass technology incorporated in the new system.
Let the fun and games begin....So visited the boat yesterday, as temperature was above 50 degrees where the boat is parked on the hard. Began deconstructing the old components/wiring. The new NMEA SeaTalk NG wiring is entirely different so probably won't be utilizing anything from the original install back in 86, when the boat was built.
Successfully removed the old control unit mounted to the right (starboard) of the wheel, and trying to trace the three sets of wires to understand how the old system was set up. Ran out of time after dismantling multiple panels in the aft cabin and elsewhere, but try as I may I have been unable to locate the ACU (gray box) or the compass (white puck). Assume there are two units as with the new system, so can anyone confirm and advise potential locations to minimize the wild goose chase?
Been reading up a lot on the criticality of the locations, as well as planning ahead for the wiring. (Dave Spencer, big thank you for sharing the detailed diagram of the install in a previous post above - very helpful). :thumb:
Hoping I don't need the ITC-5 converter to operate the compass. If I understand correctly this should share info. directly through the SeaTalk NG backbone once connected.
Will get back to the boat this weekend, so will share progress as available. Must say the new components look like quality gear. Exciting times!!
Raymond,
Older autopilots didn't have a separate ACU. When I removed my old Autohelm system, there was only the display (that evidently had some brains built into it), the wheel drive and the compass. The compass could be located almost anywhere (older Raymarine/ Autohelm compass "pucks" were grey or black, not the nice shiny white like the EV100 system). The best place for it is approx midships near the centre of rotation for the boat... i.e. low down near the base of the mast). But some mounted them in lockers or almost anywhere else that was convenient. Trace the wires and you'll find it.
Good luck.
Quote from: RaymondP on February 22, 2024, 06:30:16 AMSuccessfully removed the old control unit mounted to the right (starboard) of the wheel, and trying to trace the three sets of wires to understand how the old system was set up. Ran out of time after dismantling multiple panels in the aft cabin and elsewhere, but try as I may I have been unable to locate the ACU (gray box) or the compass (white puck). Assume there are two units as with the new system, so can anyone confirm and advise potential locations to minimize the wild goose chase?
Exciting times indeed! I did this same install last season. I turned the boat upside down looking for the old ACU before I realized that there wasn't one, per Dave's comment above! I found the old compass easily (mine was black) - it was under the cabin fwd port settee, which is where I put the new EV1 compass since it is an ideal location. Over-all I found the install was conceptually easy, but took me parts of 2 days to do because of pulling out old wires and fishing in new from the nav locker where the ACU lives to the binnacle. Good luck!
Thanks guys. No wonder! :clap So I wasn't going blind/crazy. Onward and upwards.
Raymond, last spring I replaced an old Raymarine system with new Raymarine gear, EV-100, Axiom+12,new wind, speed, & depth instrument with an i70 display. The old "compass" was installed under the v-berth,and the old instrument box for the wheel steering system was in the forward end of the cockpit locker. I installed the new instrument box, and heading sensor in the cockpit locker, and have a seatalkNG backbone that integrates an AIS unit and my VHF in the main cabin. I single hand on Lake Huron and have found the new gear to be reliable, and very customizable.