Here is my problem. I changed the oil and filter on my M35B. There was no problem with the motor leaking oil until I changed the oil and filter. Once the motor was started and when the engine warmed up a bit oil started leaking at the place where the engine block meets the gear case housing and it occurs right where a bolt that helps secure the gear case to the block, which happens to be right next to the oil filter. Let me stop every one of you who are going to say "it's the filter", or "did you apply oil to the filter gasket before screwing it on". The oil leak is where the gear case meets the engine block. You can see in the two attached photos with a red line showing exactly where the oil is leaking from. I tried tightening down all the gear case bolts and it didn't change the oil leak. I removed the gear case, replaced the gear case gasket and the four o-rings and after re-assembly. The oil leak cam back in the same place. I am going to remove the gear case again and perform a dye penetration test. Even though I hand tightened the oil filter, the fact that there was no oil leak until I changed the filter makes me believe the there is a fine hair line crack in the cast aluminum gear case at or near the oil filter. I am posting this in hopes some one has a true insight into an issue like this. Let me save those that wish to help by saying it is not the oil filter that is leaking. It is leaking at the point where the red lines are.
I have received a price for a new gear case from Westerbeke. I went into cardiac arrest. I know that my M35B model is a V1305-E Kubota block. When I called a big Kubota dealer and gave them my serial number of my engine, the Kubota web sight refused to let them get the correct Kubota part number. I suppose they have gone to bed with Westerbeke and locks out anybody but Westerbeke. Has anyone here replaced their gear housing on a M35B and got the part from a Kubota dealer. I feel like there has to be a way to get that part from Kubota without a bottle of oxygen and a EMS truck out front to revive me.
How about putting some liquid gasket on the leaky spot?
I am not familiar with your engine, however looking at the gear cover and the block I cannot exactly tell the route the oil takes through the block. I see the 2 oring seals that are for the oil journals. Also, the gasket seals around the block and cover where the filter empties into the engine. I might follow the oil flow. Maybe something in the filter or cover is restricting the flow cause abnormal oil pressure which is causing the leak. I know you said not to mention filter but if the oil is being pumped/forced into the wrong or somehow restricted filter maybe causing the leak. The filter is the only difference that was made. just a thought
If you suspect a hairline crack, you might want to have it x-ray'd (magnaflux) at a machine shop to see if it can be spotted and they might be able to weld and regrind it. This was a common repair in the classic car world to save non-replaceable parts.
Alex : Magnaflux is only good with a ferrous material!!
Continue the dye check for a hairline crack. What I'd try is a thin coating of #2 Permatex (non-hardening) on both sides of the gasket - applied to the metal castings surface & into the hole of the gearcase. Then put things back and see if that doesn't solve the leak!!
A thought. Ron
I did put a coat of Permatex #2 on the mating surfaces and a new gear case housing gasket when it was put back together. Same issue. I'll be back, after dropping my son off at Clemson this Friday (Free at Last :clap) at the boat with my dye penetrant next week.
If all that fails, Im really interested in trying to find a Kubota dealer that can tell me what Kubota part that is as apposed to selling my blood to pay Westerbeke's price.
Please keep the ideas coming.
Thank You
David
Maybe put the old oil filter back on.
It looks like from the picture of the block that there is corrosion right where the arrow is pointing. It looks like the paint has flaked off just above and below the bolt hole. How did that gasket surface look on the block when you took off the gasket? Did you scrape or sand it at all prior to the Permatex? How about the block right behind that area? Or maybe corrosion on the bolt? It looks like a hollow area behind the bolt so maybe oil is coming up the bolt threads? Though that wouldn't line up with where you see the oil. It's hard to tell from a picture, but if that area is corrosion then I'd focus on that a little.
Rob
Actually now that I look at the picture of the gear case cover, it looks like the bottom of the oil filter mount is corroded. Hard to tell from a picture, but it might be worth looking at closer.
David : To get a Kubota part the best way is to find out the Tractor that uses that engine equivalent to a M35BC engine!!
I now have a M25XPB engine which is a 3 rather than a 4 cylinder engine. On the outside chance that that gear case might? be the same my "B" engine? It (M25XPB) is used in the Kubota F2400 and the F2560 'tractors". If you can talk to a Kubota mechanic I'm sure they could tell you!! Anyway might be worth a try!!
Also the most likely place for a crack is at that ear hole on the gearcase because that casting is aluminum alloy and MUST be properly torqued. I broke one of the ears for the alternator bracket (on my engine) because there was a slight!! space inbetween ears and when tightening - that aluminum casting ear does NOT bend!!!
A few thoughts
Quote from: truewind on August 10, 2022, 02:30:03 PM
......................
........................
Im really interested in trying to find a Kubota dealer that can tell me what Kubota part that is as apposed to selling my blood to pay Westerbeke's price.
Please keep the ideas coming.
Thank You
David
David, you need the tractor #, not just your engine serial number; Ron's right. This site & forum have all sorts of repeated listing of what tractor each Universal engine was based on. Use "equivalent" or other search terms. I don't have that engine, my M25 is a B6200 Kubota tractor and I get my parts from my local Kubota guy down the lane. Try the wiki, too.
David : There have been posts on this message board with the Kubota tractors that use each of our "Universal" engines - the M25 / M25XP and M35BC engines!!
The tractors I know of are : M25 = B6200; M25XP = B7200 ; M25XPB = F2400/F2560 ; M35BC = ??? Maybe a C34 or C36 MkII owner can fill in that blank !?!
A few thoughts
Ron—are you sure about the 25XP crossover to 7200 tractor? I looked up that tractor and it claims (only) 17hp. ?
Noah : That's what I used to tell the Kubota parts people here in Fredricksburg Va / Virginia Northern Neck and they get me the correct part that I wanted!!!
A thought
Quote from: truewind on August 10, 2022, 09:52:54 AM
I know that my M35B model is a V1305-E Kubota block. When I called a big Kubota dealer and gave them my serial number of my engine,
Universal engine serial number or KUBOTA engine serial number??
Most people go to a dealer with the incorrect serial number -- or with the wrong model number (e.g., M-35.)
Our engines (and their serial numbers) did NOT come from the Kubota agricultural (tractor) division, they came from the industrial side (who supplied end users like Kohler gensets, CAT, Bobcat, etc.). So although they are basically the same engine, yes, agricultural division dealers are sometimes blocked from infringing on industrial dealers' territories.
Quote
M25 = B6200
M25XP = B7200
M25XPB = F2400/F2560 ;
M35BC ~ The V1305 block is used in the B2710HST tractor
TW,
Look this isn't rocket science
Google the engine block number and magically tractor data sites report back what it's used in.
And that there's a gear cover on eBay.
Then use a Kubota parts site and look up the tractor parts.
OR MAYBE,
JUST MAYBE The wiki might already have the Kubota parts manual for its "cousin" M35B engine.
I'm glad I waste my time posting the manuals. :shock: :shock:
However, you must be VERY cautious on fitment -- there were different water pump diameters/gear covers used on the B engines. What diameter is your water pump impeller? The thermostat diameter (and water flange/Tstat cap size) was also upped after the early B engines -- obviously, there was some cooling issue.
Try Messicks.com parts dept - I find them VERY helpful.
Or a Kb industrial engine dealer like EDI Engine Distributors Inc. 856-228-7298
Any Luck?
Alex : Here's another idea on patching your gear case cover. Take some acetone and clean the inside of that bolt ear that's leaking. Then mix some JB Weld and put a smooth coat over the inside ear in an attempt to seal a hairline crack!?! Might be a chance that it could seal that area - atleast worth a try. You could even coat the outside!!
The surface needs to absolutely oil free for the JB Weld to stick!!!
A thought
Ron's idea is good.
I suggest you consider DEVCON if you choose to go this way. I found DEVCON to be superior to JBW in the two cases I had to deal with. One was replacing a stud in that same gear case cover for my rw pump.
DEVCON comes in handy small tubes, too, for $14 CDN a few years ago. I don't think my tech note about is up on the online set yet, although it was a few years ago and you may have that issue of Mainsheet if you keep 'em. :D I'm not at home now and can't check, sorry.
Good luck.
https://secureservercdn.net/50.62.89.49/wvz.6de.myftpupload.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/MAINSHEET_SPRING_2020_UNLOCKED.pdf
page 33 (tech note)