Hi all,
I have searched through the forum and see lots of discussion about the inline starter fuse, but not specifically how to replace it. I have had very intermittant starting problems where I have power at the engine panel but when I engage the starter button - nothing. Usually I just turn off the key and then try again and it starts no problem. I have cleaned all the battery and ground connections so looking at the next likely (and easiest to fix) cause of the problem which I believe is to replace the inline starter fuse (pretty sure it is the original so probably fairly corroded.)
This is not my area of expertise so any suggestions on how best to replace would be greatly appreciated. Do I just cut out the old one and connect in a new one? Anyone have a suggest of the best one/type to use (I believe it is 20amps?) Anything else I might be missing?
Thanks,
Greg
It's included in this article:
https://marinehowto.com/universal-diesel-engine-wiring-harness-upgrade/
I posted a picture of mine in the Critical Upgrade topic: https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.msg32211.html#msg32211 I deliberately chose to use another inline holder rather than the newer better ones because my boat has old glass fuses and I didn't want to have to carry yet another different part. I moved it to a new location that's visible and accessible.
Greg do you still have the OEM harness and gummy bear plugs - what gsuge S wire is it? You should at least match that size or larger. I use a 10-ga tinned ATC/ATO moisture-tight fuse holder.
Greg
This is the 10 awg one I use for the S wire and also to fuse the panel +12v feed.
Greg : In one of my Mainsheet Tech Note Articles I recommended that all the old glass inline fuse holders be changed to new "stab in" fuse older. I'd use Cole Hersee or Blue Seas brand holders.
I just snip out the old glass fuse (Buss) holder, slide on some heat shrink on the wire and solder the new holder in place. Then slide the heat shrink over the new soldered joint and then hit it with a heat gun.
A few thoughts
Ron, I've been down this rabbit hole before when searching for blade fuse holders for making harnesses, etc.
Cole Hersee (bought out by Litelfuse) doesn't make an in-line fuse holder w/ tinned leads except by special order.
Ancor (tinned) has only a 16-ga in-line fuse holder.
BlueSea (bought out by Power Products) doesn't make an in-line fuse holder w/ 10-ga leads (why I asked if he has the OEM harness (16 ga) -- the upgrade has a 10-ga "S" wire.)
I order them wholesale in bulk to get 10-awg tinned leads.
Ken : Glad that you pointed out the wire gage of those blade (stab in) fuse holders. I may not have mentioned that in my articles/posts.
I automatically match or use the heavier gage holder.
A thought
Thanks all for the advice. I do have the original harness but have replace the gummy connectors.
I was able to replace with a Blue Seas 20amp fuse and it seems to be working fine. Not sure if that was the cause of my previous starting problems, but time will tell.
Guys : The problem with those older glass fuse holders is that the fixed end contact and or the spring end contact would corrode. Then you would get an intermittent working until it stopped working all together.
I was a where of the inline starter, but had forgotten about the inline fuse in my Balmar Voltage regulator wiring - until it started to do goffy things!! So be where of those older holders. It only takes a few minutes to change them out and be trouble free!!
A few thoughts
Greg
While you are in there working on the S wire there's another issue w/ the quick-connect terminal that that can cause no cranks. (I call it the heat up, expand, corrode, and quick fall-off terminal.)
https://groups.io/g/Catalina30/wiki/7401 *(#2.5)
Guys : I recommended (years ago) that C34 owners install a screw on rubber boot over the starter switch as well as the key switch!! Just helps keep the contacts clean by preventing corrosion!! A CHEAP preventive maintenance item!
A thought