I have recently relocated the boat from NY to Louisiana and am in the process of installing reverse cycle air conditioning. Does anyone have drawings of doors for an mki? Would like to use them while in the slip with the AC on. I have time at the moment to build them, so I shall make that attempt instead of buying from a vendor. Thank you.
Chris : I believe that you are better off making you own doors from YOUR boats measurements. It's been my experience that each C34 could be slightly different!
That way you know that they will fit for sure!!
A thought
Ron's right as usual. Make a template from your own boat. I tried duplicating my doors for another 34. It was a colossal waste of time.
That makes sense, thanks!
Chris,
If you make your own you'll get exactly what you want. I don't know how much you enjoy refinishing teak, not a fan myself, but you might consider using Starboard instead of teak.
Do you need the doors for safety or just to enter quickly with ac on? I decided to have a cover made of the same canvas as the dodger. It attaches with 2 snaps on top and hangs down over the opening. It keeps the cold air in, waterproof and easy to go in and out. Just an idea.
Quote from: ChrisOB on April 13, 2020, 10:08:13 PM
I have recently relocated the boat from NY to Louisiana and am in the process of installing reverse cycle air conditioning. Does anyone have drawings of doors for an mki? Would like to use them while in the slip with the AC on. I have time at the moment to build them, so I shall make that attempt instead of buying from a vendor. Thank you.
I actually have a custom canvas cover that snaps over the companionway that we use without the criboards. The doors were for keeping the cool air inside without lifting the boards. I decided that I have so many projects that for now I will make some crib boards out of styrafoam and use those with the canvas for now. That will insulate well and take away the annoyance of lifting up the heavy crib boards to enter and exit. I'd like to make nice doors eventually but after designing them, sourcing wood, and making them fit perfectly I think that time will be better spent on other projects. The styrafoam will not be yachtie but it will be effective.
I've never heard of them referred to as "crib". That's interesting. Do you come from a farming background.
I also have a canvas cover that we put on the companion way when we are on the boat. It attaches with snaps. Keeps the A/C in and easy to enter and exit.
Quote from: Roc on April 17, 2020, 06:42:50 AM
I also have a canvas cover that we put on the companion way when we are on the boat. It attaches with snaps. Keeps the A/C in and easy to enter and exit.
I did the same thing, but added vinyl windows in the canvas to let light in. We also had a canvas framed screen that snapped on too.
Chris
Take a look at Zarcor companionway doors. They are great! Even if you'd rather make your own, they are worth a look because of great design ideas like changeable inserts (smoke, opaque and screen), maintenance free Starboard-like material, and, best-of-all the replacement hinges are included and they make the doors easily removable. Don't know where you could get hinges like 'em but they're worth it if available. Love my Zarcor doors and I am not paid for this endorsement.
QuoteTake a look at Zarcor companionway doors. They are great!
I agree, they work and look good on Shamrock. But then Shamrock is a MKll with no teak on the topsides. IMHO anyone considering or pricing air conditioning should include companionway doors as part of the overall project.
Jim
Chris: Just wondering... how did you relocate your C34 from NY to Louisiana, and where is it located in Louisiana?
I made my own as I can't stand using slats.
I also used lift off hinges...makes a big difference
That's what's great about these boats, you can reimagine them to suit your personal preferences. I found the original teak slats to be heavy and a bit unwieldy so I made new slats from 1/4" starboard, they're lighter and require no maintenance.
Gunner, does the 1/4" starboard sag with age? I have thought about starboard hatch boards.
I have changed all my teak to plastic lumber except for the hatch boards because I think it will sag.
I like your boat name, my nephew was an instructor for 3 years.
Phil,
No sagging at all and I've had them in place for 5+ years. You'll have to shim the boards to fit the wider hatch slots but that's no big deal, a strip of starboard on the edges of the hatch boards. I've also replaced all the exterior teak with a combination of starboard and stainless steel, it makes the exterior practically maintenance free.
On my little Gloucester I replaced the teak handrails with PlasTeak, https://www.plasteak.com/ . They're also zero maintenance, but retain the look of wood. I liked the look so much that I added PlasTeak toe rails and hatch sliders. I also did the decks in PlasDeck, but that was a whole different ball game....
Phil,
My bad, I said 1/4", that was wrong, I actually used 1/2" starboard stock to make the new boards. I could see where 1/4" might sag or flex. Another option if you want to stay with the teak boards is to router out the back of the teak boards to about half the thickness while keeping the borders intact, it will lighten the boards and still maintain board strength.
Thanks for the advice, I will check that company out. The air conditioning is installed under the vee berth with all the plumbing and electrical, however I still need to do the ducts and vents. I hope to complete that this week and will report back on the results.
Also- To reply to Randy: We left NY in 2017, sailed the East coast to the bahamas, spent 3 months there, then back to east coast, and then Bahamas again for 2018-2019 winter. We then sailed south around the Keys and Dry Tortugas, across the Gulf and are now docked at the new Municipal dock in from the the NOYC on Lake Ponchatrain.
Wow, that's quite a journey. I look forward to meeting you at NOYC for a beer once the new normal allows.
Gunner, thanks for the tip on using a router to thin part of the back of the hatch boards. Had thought about running the boards through the planer to clean up the outside face, but your suggestion sounds
interesting.
Phil,
I did that to my original teak boards and used them like that for a couple of seasons before I made the replacement starboard boards. The advantage is you don't have to buy anything or build anything and they work just fine. The reason I decided to go with the starboard is it's essentially maintenance free and if your boat is like mine, there's always something else that needs attention.
I made my own doors & took ideas from many others. I ended up using 3/4" PVC trim material which I selected instead of Starboard because it could be painted. I painted a compass rose design on the outside & got chose to a match on the inside. I made a single bifold door on removable hinges & did a number of measurements/mockups to make sure it fit just the way I wanted it. I am still able to use the hatch boards because I would not trust the door in any type of weather because it not as structurally sound as the original hatch boards, it would not withstand a rush of water in the cockpit.
Pics of the project are below.