Recent posts
#1
Main Message Board / Re: ? Sudden overheating?
Last post by Ron Hill - Today at 02:51:53 PMGuys : Before you start tearing things apart - spend a few $$ on a heat gun and see what the temperature of the engine really is!! 
A thought
A thought
#2
Main Message Board / Re: Oil/temp warning
Last post by KWKloeber - Today at 11:20:07 AMEdit - I've said it previously in this thread but will again. Tie down the wires so that harness movement doesn't get transmitted to the oil pressure switch terminals. They fail too many times on the B engines. Wb doesn't put a spring-coil of wire on the sender wires to absorb vibration/movement.
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David where exactly where the two ends disconnected? Were they quick-disconnect terminals?
Does she still have the black rectangular Westerbeke plugs on the harness near the back of the engine?
When did the fuel gauge stop working?
I would be rethining my choice of a mechanic if one claimed that I didn't need a harness ground wire connected!
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David where exactly where the two ends disconnected? Were they quick-disconnect terminals?
Does she still have the black rectangular Westerbeke plugs on the harness near the back of the engine?
When did the fuel gauge stop working?
I would be rethining my choice of a mechanic if one claimed that I didn't need a harness ground wire connected!
#3
Main Message Board / Re: ? Sudden overheating?
Last post by KWKloeber - Today at 11:14:51 AMCraig this makes no sense to me. Pinning high is due to zero resistance at the S terminal and you have 970. The R on the S wire should be very close to the R of the sender, not 70 ohms difference (depending on what gauge S wire you ran.) Although, you are referencing two different grounds (engine vs. panel) so that could account for the difference. (That might mean your ground to the panel needs checking/ohm-ing/attention.)
Still, the gauge should read a little low if the R is higher at the gauge than at the sender not pin high.
You saw my questions about your engine cover?
Still, the gauge should read a little low if the R is higher at the gauge than at the sender not pin high.
You saw my questions about your engine cover?
Quote from: Schulcb on May 12, 2024, 08:03:34 AMAfter removing the S wire from the gauge, the resistance from the S wire to the panel ground (checked using the G post on the temp gauge) IS 970 ohms. Checking the resistance at the sender again (cold this AM) is 900 ohms.
When the gauge started displaying inaccurate readings it was sporatic with it going from "pinned" high to reading normal. Then the frequency diminished until it always reads >240.
This morning with the engine cool, when I engerize the panel the gauge reads ~170'F.
Not sure it this tells you anything...
Thanks,
Craig
#4
Main Message Board / Re: Oil/temp warning
Last post by dclintonbaker - Today at 09:27:24 AMProgress report.
Yesterday I reconnected all of the wires of the harness.
The "tan" wire had become disconnected. I think that this one goes to the temperature switch. Difficult to spot that the two ends were not connected as it was at the back of the bundle.
The red wire with red stripe spade connector on the engine side had a poor crimp. The wire could be easily pulled out even with the heat shrink. I replaced both the male and the female sides.
Fired her up and the low oil pressure buzzer promptly stops!
But...none of the instruments working.
The black wire was not connected at the harness. Mechanic told me not needed. I connected it anyway. All the instruments now work with the exception of the fuel gauge.
I am currently trouble shooting the fuel gauge.
Again Ken, thanks for staying with me on this.
David.
Yesterday I reconnected all of the wires of the harness.
The "tan" wire had become disconnected. I think that this one goes to the temperature switch. Difficult to spot that the two ends were not connected as it was at the back of the bundle.
The red wire with red stripe spade connector on the engine side had a poor crimp. The wire could be easily pulled out even with the heat shrink. I replaced both the male and the female sides.
Fired her up and the low oil pressure buzzer promptly stops!
But...none of the instruments working.
The black wire was not connected at the harness. Mechanic told me not needed. I connected it anyway. All the instruments now work with the exception of the fuel gauge.
I am currently trouble shooting the fuel gauge.
Again Ken, thanks for staying with me on this.
David.
#5
Main Message Board / Re: Air Conditioner size .... ...
Last post by rmjohns - Today at 04:15:34 AMI have a 16k unit, though it's an older unit. It does blow pretty cold air. It's adequate in the summers of NC, but I wouldn't say it would freeze you out of the cabin. If the sun is shining on the deck, you can feel the heat radiating from the ceiling when you're down below. I made some deck shades that help dramatically.
Rob.
Rob.
#6
Main Message Board / Re: Air Conditioner size .... ...
Last post by Kyle Ewing - Yesterday at 01:28:00 AMMy Webasto 16k BTU cools all cabins in my 1990 on the hottest Chicago summer days. I use it at Marina's but read it'll run on a Honda 2000 if I add a soft start circuit.
#7
Catalina 34s Parts & Pieces For Sale or Wanted / Re: Mail sail cover, free, jus...
Last post by surfnturfpaul - May 12, 2024, 10:56:44 PMDo you still have this sale cover? I am in Moss Landing California. Would gladly pay shipping.
#8
Main Message Board / Re: Air Conditioner size .... ...
Last post by Gulfsailor - May 12, 2024, 10:55:15 PMI had the same 16k btu on my Ericson I installed 13 years ago. It ran fine on my Honda EU2000 while on the hook.
#9
Catalina 34s Parts & Pieces For Sale or Wanted / Re: ST4000 Version 1 Auto Pilo...
Last post by surfnturfpaul - May 12, 2024, 10:48:25 PMDefinitely interested I have an old 1986 Catalina, with the same unit and need a new belt. Contact me.surfnturfpaul@gmail.com
#10
Main Message Board / Re: Air Conditioner size .... ...
Last post by WTunnessen - May 12, 2024, 07:28:38 PM16K BTU works very well here in the Chesapeake Bay in the summer. But I have wondered if it's oversized. If you are planning on running your AC while on anchor with a portable generator, you might consider using a 14K unit. If you plan to use it mostly at slip on shore power and like to sleep in refrigerator, 16k will deliver.