There's some play in the helm, and a bit more deflection in the cable then I think should be there.
How do you adjust the tension of the cable?
The Edson website should have info and probably a video too.
Quote from: Noah on April 05, 2024, 12:19:24 PMThe Edson website should have info and probably a video too.
Is this it? https://youtu.be/eDa6fKxmoBU?t=324
Also, what lubricants are needed might as well do that too!
Do you have pull-pull called in sheaths or cables on sheaves?
The cables are adjusted by the eye bolts, unless they are too stretched and need to be removed, taken up on the u-bolt clamps, then adjusted.
If you have the enclosed type cables there is a lube assembly with a zerk fitting to put on the end of the sheath. Obviously, that requires removing the cables from the radial wheel.
pby : Yes, that's the correct video. What happens over time is that the threads in the cable lay closer together giving the impression of the cable stretching.
I was able to tighten up my tension by just removing that "Dog House" screwed into the ceiling of the aft cabin and use extensions and a deep well socket.
On a MKI with a standard transom -- REMINDER those "Dog House" screws are two different lengths!! So when you reassemble the longer screws go into the overhead(UP)and the shorter screws the part that is on the outside of the water tank (aft panel)!! Yes, you can puncture the water tank if you mix up the longer screws!!!
Not too sure what your MKII aft cabin overhead looks like ?? so you can disregard my cautions on screw length as your MKII maybe completely different!?!
You want to take up the tension equally on both sides. You want the tension to be just tight with no sag - NOT super taut !! :thumb:
A few thoughts
Quote from: KWKloeber on April 05, 2024, 01:36:03 PMDo you have pull-pull called in sheaths or cables on sheaves?
The cables are adjusted by the eye bolts, unless they are too stretched and need to be removed, taken up on the u-bolt clamps, then adjusted.
If you have the enclosed type cables there is a lube assembly with a zerk fitting to put on the end of the sheath. Obviously, that requires removing the cables from the radial wheel.
Hmm. It has exposed cables if I remember correctly, with sheaves in the aft cabin. It's a MKII if that helps any...
Best picture I have attached.
Quote from: Ron Hill on April 05, 2024, 01:43:09 PMpby : Yes, that's the correct video. What happens over time is that the threads in the cable lay closer together giving the impression of the cable stretching.
I was able to tighten up my tension by just removing that "Dog House" screwed into the ceiling of the aft cabin and use extensions and a deep well socket. REMINDER those "Dog House" screws are two different lengths!! So when you reassemble the longer screws go into the overhead(UP)and the shorter screws the part that is on the outside of the water tank (aft panel)!! Yes, you can puncture the water tank if you mix up the longer screws!!!
You want to take up the tension equally on both sides. You want the tension to be just tight with no sag - NOT super taught !! :thumb:
A few thoughts
OH! you can reach the quadrant from in the aft cabin?! Huh. And here I laid off the cheetos to fit into the lazarette!
Pk I don't have that type with open cables do I don't know the recommended lube, if any.
Edson pry has it on its website.
pby : I'd call EDSON (508) 995-9711 and send them your picture and pose your problem to them. I've talked to them in the past and they have been VERY helpfull !!
A thought
Quote from: Ron Hill on April 05, 2024, 02:40:45 PMpby : I'd call EDSON (508) 995-9711 and send them your picture and pose your problem to them. I've talked to them in the past and they have been VERY helpfull !!
A thought
I read somewhere that it's 30 weight oil an teflon for the bushings, which I'm assuming is in the pedestal itself.
Is it relatively easy to get to the chain in the pedestal?
Ok, so I think I loosen the nuts showing in the third photo, and tighten to draw the bolt with eyelet through the quadrant, on both sides, then tighten the lock nut, and voila?
Correct.
Mann, it's so nice to see "freshwater" steering!
Quote from: KWKloeber on April 30, 2024, 12:58:31 AMCorrect.
Mann, it's so nice to see "freshwater" steering!
LOL. I know! When I see the saltwater photos, I'm always surprised at how much corrosion can occur.
While were on this topic of 'water' do you happen to know where rain water is coming in and settling in the 'dimple' aft of the P bracket? I always find water pooled there in the spring until I get the cockpit enclosure up, and keep thinking it's the emergency rudder cover as I can't see anywhere else that would let that much water in.
QuoteWhile were on this topic of 'water' do you happen to know where rain water is coming in and settling in the 'dimple' aft of the P bracket? I always find water pooled there in the spring until I get the cockpit enclosure up, and keep thinking it's the emergency rudder cover as I can't see anywhere else that would let that much water in.
First season with Shamrock had that. Changed the emergency rudder cover O-ring and resealed hatch. Problem solved. Was able to get O-ring at local hardware store. Also covered the cover with white nonskid tape. Cooler and of course less slipping.
While you're at it, I recommend you hook up your emergency rudder. Best to have any bugs worked out before an actual steering failure.
Jim
Jim : We're off the topic, but I've tried to find the source of that water in the "Scag Dimple" for 30 years?? Being fresh water I'm convinced that it's from the aft water tank, but I'm NOT going thru all of the work to pull that aft tank just to find out.
A few thoughts
Ron—really? From the freshwater tank? Not rain, through any number of hatches, vents, etc? I would think it would be "easy" to eliminate the aft tank as the culprit?
Ron,
Noah is correct if you've got a leak in the aft tank that should be easy to determine. Without using it if you have to keep topping it off every few weeks or couple of months the tank is obviously leaking. If that's the case you also have another problem, the leaking tank will fill the pan that it sits in and when the boat heels the water runs to that side comes forward and leaks through the bottom of the bulkhead into the aft cabin. It's also possible if you haven't changed the cockpit drain hoses that could be the culprit, when I changed mine I don't know if they were leaking but they were badly cracked.
On the "Scag Dimple" (I actually had two) there was some really nasty standing water in mine. Using epoxy and filler I faired mine in so the bottom is smooth and any water now simply runs down to the bilge.
Quote from: scgunner on May 01, 2024, 07:22:25 AMRon,
Noah is correct if you've got a leak in the aft tank that should be easy to determine. Without using it if you have to keep topping it off every few weeks or couple of months the tank is obviously leaking. If that's the case you also have another problem, the leaking tank will fill the pan that it sits in and when the boat heels the water runs to that side comes forward and leaks through the bottom of the bulkhead into the aft cabin. It's also possible if you haven't changed the cockpit drain hoses that could be the culprit, when I changed mine I don't know if they were leaking but they were badly cracked.
On the "Scag Dimple" (I actually had two) there was some really nasty standing water in mine. Using epoxy and filler I faired mine in so the bottom is smooth and any water now simply runs down to the bilge.
Filling the 'dimples' in was something I was considering as well. They don't serve any purpose other than to provide a breeding ground for things I don't want on the boat!
Logo Freak just did this during his new fuel tank job. He used spray foam to fill it, shaved it flat and ran a few layers of glass over it. I REALLY wish I had when I rebuilt my water tank shelf. It is a challenging spot to get to for cleaning.
Guys : My 1988 boat the aft water tank is NOT setting in a pan!! The simplest thing to go is fill the "scag dimple" like some have done, and say THWI!!
A thought
I've filled in those "skag dimples", used closed cell expanding foam and layed up glass over those areas. Switching the stainless steel cables for dyneema instead to not have dissimilar metals (SS cables/aluminium quadrant).