Messages

I am replacing my 30A Charles 5000 battery charger on my 2005 MkII with a Xantrex TruCharge2.  Currently have the Catalina OEM configuration of 2x 4Ds in a 1-2 configuration, but intend to parallel them and add a reserve/starting battery.  Plan to have a Blue Sea ACR relay for isolation between banks.

What Xantrex do folks use -- 20A or 40A?  I thought 40A would be needed (or just desired) but in addition to the added $$, I'll need to upgrade my DC wiring (to 8#).  Also, Xantrex recommends a min 80aH per battery bank with the 40A charger, which is high for a starting battery.  I've also heard the 40A can have greater EMI issues.  These last 2 items worry me.


I don't have a particular need to have fast ac shore charge (on the hook is a different issue for another day).  Saving a couple of hours charging may not be worth the hassle or $$ unless there's a reason...

Comments welcome.

Julian

Prior to embarking on a 2-month cruise to Desolation Sound in BC, I want to resolve an intermittent issue I have had with my RM C70 display.  Occasionally (4 times over the last year), I've experienced banding (usually horizontal, but once vertical) on startup, making the display unreadable. Employing the engineer's repair (rap on the back of the unit), the display returned to normal.

Before getting a repair guy resulting in an  umlimited repair bill, I thought I'd see if others have experienced this.  FYI, I have done the usual, including checking connections, power level, cleaning connections, etc. 

It's impossible to reach Raymarine, now that a hedge fund is involved in controlling costs....

Thanks,

Julian

Interesting to note your installation is located in the engine pod at the helm vs. the instrument pods at eye level, which I was planning.  However, I'll look at that possibility this weekend.  If it is suitable I avoid a big project, would be a reasonable compromise.

I did this on my last boat for the same reason.

This is NOT for the faint of heart or those without patience. The wires are SMALL and delicate.
you will need to fold the conductor over the insulator to get a good grip in the terminal strip.

I used a Radio Shack plastic project box to hold a "Euro" style terminal strip (Small wire size, 12 connection I think. One of the Radio Shack boxes is a perfect match). I had it installed for 6 years with no problems. I put the box below deck, used vinyl grommets that fit the O.D. of the wire and when I removed it to move it to the "new" boat everything was clean and corrosion free at the splice.


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Hmmm...  Icom confirmed that this is possible, but is difficult.  Says that several of the wires are individually shielded, which sounds like a mess to deal with, given the size of the individual wires.  Did you find this the case, or is there just one shield for the cable?

Your use of a terminal strip is what I was planning to use.  The external housing from Radio Shack is a good idea; environmental protection plus strain relief.

All,

One of my summer projects is to move my Icom RAM microphone on my Navpod housing at the helm. The shielded cable assy between the remote mike and the base VHF has moulded connectors (9-pin).  With the many cables present in the binnacle tubing, there is no way to pull the bulky connector of the one-piece cable/connector assy thru the tubing.  Has anyone successfully cut and spliced this cable?  If so, how?  I have a note in to Icom, but I already suspect their answer.

Thanks,

Julian

The fraying is on the outside braid; the inner core is intact.  Probably more a visual issue than a breaking strength issue, but don't want to find out.  I  could shorten the halyard, but it just moves the damage forward.

Have bought some nice flexible Sampson XLS; will pull up this weekend.  I'll forgo dealing with the clutch.

J

Somewhere in the archives, I remember this item mentioned, but cannot find it.  So here goes.

My current main halyard has become frayed at the Spinlock clutch, and I am replacing it (the halyard).   I remember someone with a similar situation who smoothed the "bite" of the clutch teeth to reduce fraying.

Has anyone done this successfully?  Don't want to get involved in something that is not effective, or worse, creates slippage.

I have a furling main, and I suspect the PO rarely if ever lowered/loosened the halyard.

Julian

Thanks fpr the comments.  I've diagrammed out my DC system fully, and except for that charger anomoly, all wires are "spoken for", altho I had to reroute my Espar furnace directly to the battery.   Re the charger, I'll just accept the system as is for now.  This does need correction, however.

As an aside, my previous 1996 C320 had a separate 4-guage alternator charge wire from the engine to the combo switch.  Unless I'm mistaken, it now seems the starter 2-guage wire does double duty and energizes the starter, plus sends amps back to the batteries when the engine is running.  Money-saving I guess; haven't thought thru yet whether this is suboptimal, and what this means to my upgrade.  Next project....

Stu,

I intend to add a combiner relay; today, I have a standard 2 bank system, each charged directly from one output of the Charles. 

A reasonable question, though.  When I add the combiner, I'll only need one output.   I'm primarily stumped why it is set it up this way.   Seems bad for charging 2 banks unevenly.

I guess it's my physics background; I need to understand the theory of "why", not just "how".

Since acquiring my new (to me) 2005 MkII, earlier this year, I have been busy converting it from a floating condo into a proper cruising  boat for Northwestern waters.  I have been amazed at the accumulated knowlege of this list, and have found it extremely helpful in figuring out many things, and look forward to contributing in the future.

Next on my list (after cruising season) is upgrading the DC system to incorporate a starting battery, beefy alternator, etc.  Today, I began to map out the current wiring. and found something curious.  I currently have 2 house banks (4D's), connected as expected to a 1-2-BOTH switch.  Each battery has a wire (approx. 10-12 ga), fused, and going to the OEM Charles 5000SP battery charger, which - according to the documentation- can charge 3 separate banks.

I was surprised to see only one positive red lead (plus a black common) coming out of the DC side of the charger.  Ie, it appears that both battery banks are being charged from a single output.  The installation seems to be undisturbed from the original factory wiring, so it appears this came from Catalina in this configuration. 

Anyone else have this configuration?  Is this a common design practice for Catalina?

Julian Elliott
Tenaya #1713

I've been researching and soul searching intensively over the past week, and have concluded with your help that (1) a later model C34 is absolutely the boat for me, and (2) I'm still wrestling with the decision on in-mast furling vs. battened main. 

I have spoken with brokers up and down the west coast, and am pretty aware of what's currently on the market, and a couple that are coming.  Some nice boats (if somewhat expensive after transport and adding heat).   The big issue I'm now confronting is the tradeoff in the different mainsail systems.    As an third alternative, I'm investigating whether a batten main with a "stackpack" cover and Harken Battcars would alleviate the effort/mobility issues.  Opinions?

Also, UK and others offer a vertical batten main that they claim is a big improvement for in mast systems.  Is this just marketing hype?

Wayne, your comment re the folding prop is good.  A friend with a C34 told me that it would be a huge improvement in the lighter air up here.

I began this quest because of a desire to accommodate reduced mobility.  I'm now finding it hard to make compromises. 

My wife tells me I'm getting too anal with this...

Tommyt, thanks for the comments on sailability.  Re gelcoat crazing in the transom, I had heard of that.

Stu, sorry for asking an inappropriate q re comparisons.  Laziness on my part, and I'm investigating elsewhere (although I think I know my conclusion).

I don't want to overstay my welcome.  Thanks to all for your comments.

Julian Elliott

Thanks for the insightful comments.  This is very helpful.  Jim, your comments on limitations highlight some we've noted (don't get my wife started on the galley and reefer layout vs the 320!).  The tradeoffs with a furling main are important to me; I wrestle with that, but ease of sailing is becoming increasingly a priority unfortunately.  Your leech line solution sounds interesting. I also understand that some mains come with vertical battens.  Also,  I also see a folding prop to offset the reduced sail efficiency since we're in a light-wind area.

It is interesting to hear comments on pricing/value which is consistent with what I've found.  We have friends who are encouraging us to consider a 350 as an alternative -- more boat for similar dollars.  I'm not familiar with the 350.  Opinions?

Julian

Stu,

I must admit I got a lot of info on heaters off this site earlier this year when I installed a Webasto furnace on my 320!

Julian

I have recently put my beloved 1996 C320 in brokerage, and am now searching for a later model (03-07) C34 to replace it.  This was brought on less by two-foot-itis" than by the admirable features I can find in the C34 with respect to sailing performance, accomodations, and comfort.  I particularly like the lower freeboard, large v-berth, ergonomics, and the possibility of in-mast furling (yes, I know the tradeoffs, but am unfortunately getting a bit less mobile).  Besides, it has beautiful lines, and can be handled easily by a cruising couple. 

We moved from San Francisco to Victoria, BC, and we love cruising the San Juan and Gulf Islands; the C34 seems perfect for us both above and below deck.  In this area, fin keel, big sail area, good electronics (plotter/radar), heater, and solid ground tackle are important features which are desirable/required.  I suspect I'll be upgrading any boat I find.

Anyway, I would be very appreciative of any advice or perspective you could give as I search for the perfect boat.  Especially any problem areas or items to particularly look out for as I assess boats. (Eg, is there a Tall Rig version of the later MkII's??)  I am looking up and down the West Coast, with most of the few C34's for sale seemingly in Southern California unfortunately.

Thanks in advance for your help.  I am very impressed with the C34 Forum and look forward to being here legally someday....

Julian Elliott