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Never thought about water coming FROM inside. I question that worry. I never consider gooping up bolts in the bilge years after keel install. Maybe? However, it is a "known" issue discussed here in the past, that you should remove any gelcoat from around the washers and nuts to prevent oxygen starvation which could cause corrosion.

Lots of places to buy online, but it is not cheap. Google is your friend, search "Teak lumber". I would probably start with a 3/8 in. teak board. Then (I would think) you could do all the cutting and shaping with a sabre saw/skill saw, a power sander and/or hand sanding.

Ron—really? From the freshwater tank? Not rain, through any number of hatches, vents, etc? I would think it would be "easy" to eliminate the aft tank as the culprit?

Prop is cleaned/polished during each haul out. Then the hull and prop are cleaned by my diver monthly. Cost is $60 per month. He also replaces spent zincs for extra $10 (I supply zincs). Full disclosure: That photo is just before my last launch. I go 3-years between haul outs/painting. Next one is this October.

  This my set-up in California. Pretty usual

 
I have never used zinc spray on bronze. Might work, but Interlux Interprotect 20000 epoxy is my go to.

  Bernd— YES! Sorry for confusion. My strut is primed with epoxy and painted with bottom paint. While it is metal, I consider it part of the hull not "running gear".

If you don't use a diver, I have anecdotally heard that Prop Speed and similar (expensive) coatings help significantly curtail growth. Following exact application instructions is mandatory to get good results..

In San Diego I just clean and polish shaft and prop at haulout. No painting. Of course I have a diver monthly.

I like Alex's idea of bringing Formica to paint store. Perhaps remove one of your galley sliding door panels of fridge lid?

One company's "Antique White" is another's "Off White". Paint color names vary by brands. I would recommend going to a paint store or big box store and grab some chip samples and bring them to your boat's Formica to get a somewhat close match. The actual paint may very from the sample but you will be closer using that approach instead just relying on a color name.

 
I agree Jim, but then I hit my head on my split backstay! But that's another issue... ;-)

Yeah, thx for the tip on the pads, but I have enough tripping hazards already! Mostly, I steer from the "Princess" seats. I like the wind in my face!  Only time it is an issue is in crowded/congested harbors or when docking.

STU- I probably should have better factored height into my calculus when buying my current dodger—built to fit my old existing frame. I failed to acknowledge that I had personally shrunk at least an inch over the past 9-years! Now, when standing at the helm, I either scrunch down to look through it or stand on my toes to look over it. ;-)

 
I (and Mainesail) recommend Makrolon AR-2 (a polycarbonate) over any vinyl, including Stratoglas. It offers much better clarity and I think, durability. I use it on my dodger. The two "downsides" are it is more expensive and you cannot roll it up. The front panel of my dodger zips up for ventilation and folds back onto the top of the dodger and is held in place by a standard SS twist lock canvas fastener. Regardless, whether you use vinyl/Stratoglas or polycarbonate, use Sunbrella sun covers over the windows when not sailing to prolong their life.
UPDATE/Edit: just found my old estimate and the material I have is:
60 gauge Lexan MR-10 Polycarbonate window