After the loss of our fresh water coolant, we have determined that the 5/8 inch hoses from the thermostat to the hot water heater, which run under the galley sole, need to be replaced.
I figure that replacement would work like this: remove existing hose with a tag line connected, connect tag line to new hose by drilling a small hole at the end of the hose, pull new hose with tag line.
Because of the very small clearance between the hose and the hole(s) in the bed of the engine compartment, using a connector with hose clamps won't seem to work.
For those who have replaced those hoses, I'd appreciate any additional pointers you may be able to provide.
Stu - Since there's a quick 90 degree turn after it passes thru the engine bed, I think someone's going to need to be pushing/feeding while someone else is at the heater end is pulling. Given that, I think you could use short barbed connectors without clamps if they fit somewhat tightly. Your tag line idea is probably just as easy.
Another idea, run a fish tape up the existing hose from the water heater end to the engine, extend the fish tape to allow the old hose someplace to get out of the way, then feed the new hose from the engine end over the fish tape toward the heater.
Then, last resort, there's always the sawzall!
I should tackle this project sometime myself. I'm working through pro-actively replacing my engine hoses. I'd also like to add a tempering valve on the "house" side of the hot water heater. Given the age of my boat, I probably should replace the water heater while I'm at it.
Craig
Stu : On my 1988 boat I know that those hoses are of 2 differant types: the wire reinforced from the starboard side of the engine to the water heater and then regular nylon hose from the brass connectors on the starboard side 3/4 of the way up to the thermostate.
Are they of the same size dia.? don't know! Will check tomorrow. :think
Stu,
I replaced my water heater and hoses last year and had no problems at all. We simply pulled out the old hoses and pushed the new ones through the holes from the engine side and was able to reach under the floor from the water heater side to retrieve them. You may be able to reach them easier from under the sink and then you can pass them to the left to the access door.
I remember they ARE the same size hoses but there are reducers at the engine side. I had pondered whether it mattered which way the flow goes and I don't think it does.
I belive it was Ron who recommended to leave the hoses disconnected at the engine side after you connect the water heater side and use a funnel to pour your 50/50 mixture of anti-freeze into one hose until it comes out the other hose to insure that you get all the air out of the system and then connect the engine side hoses. That procedure worked GREAT!!!
I think you'll find that its easier than you expected.
Good luck and let us know how it goes,
Mike
Stu : Plot thickens!! I read your analysis and Mikes' reply - interesting.
My hoses are of 2 sizes!! There is wire reinforced(wet exhaust type) 5/8" hose from the water heater to 3/4 up the starboard side of the engine. There are brass reducers connected to that 5/8" hose and it then is 3/8" nylon hose to the outlet of the water pump and the inlet of the thermostate housing!!!
I'm going to guess that they had to change the hose sizes because the M25XP engine fittings are 3/8" and the water heater fittings are 5/8" !?!
Hope this helps? :?:
I just checked another C34 1989 and it had the same setup as my 1988 (M25XP).
Thanks for all your input, your assistance is much appreciated.
The old hose was completely shot underneath the galley sole.
The 5/8 inch hoses do indeed have a reducer fitting in the engine compartment for the short run to the thermostat and freshwater pump. The 5/8 hose is attached by hose clamps to the barb underneath and were easy to remove. Under the galley sink the 5/8 inch hoses also either get reduced to 3/8 inch or are just connected by a barb to the same size hose for the final run to the heater. That shorter hose at the heater end appeared to be installed by the PO when he replaced the heater just before we bought the boat. Since there is a microwave oven directly below the galley sink, it made sense to install extension hoses when they installed the heater to avoid having to connect the main hose way at the forward end of the heater - tough place to get to.
The "TRICKS" to getting them in [working alone] were:
1. work from the engine side TO the heater
2. using the "tag line" concept I described in my question that started this post, instead of pulling the old hose with a tag line all the way through and then using the tag line to pull the new hose, I tied one end of the line to the other hose, using a drill to punch a hole in the hoses; the advantage of this was that it was a one step, not a two step process; the engine side ended up pushing through, rather than the pulling on the old hose
3. start the forward end hose/hole first, by pulling / pushing that hose first, but don't push the new hose through UNTIL you get the second aft one going
I found that sitting with my back to the oven facing inboard I was able to reach to push with my left hand and pull with my right hand. People with short arms will need help. :D People with help won't need tag lines! :thumb:
Hoses tied together after being pulled/pushed most of the way through, new coming out of the hole, old on the sole
Condition of old hose - age plus rubbing on the hull underneath the galley sole
The old hose was completely shot, and soft all over.
Since this hose carries your fresh water coolant, if you have ANY QUESTION about its integrity, change it out NOW. It's not worth waiting for a blown engine.
It MAY look good where you can see it, but the AGE is the best way to know when to replace it.
Those of you with the "original" Mark IIs, your time has now come to join us "Good Old Boaters."
I still have to replace the 3/8 inch hose connections from the new hose to the heater and the thermostat/pump at the engine end.
Length? I used two seven foot pieces. Here's all that is left. I suggest you use at LEAST seven foot lengths, since your connections at either end may be in different spots than ours were located.
Mike and Ron were right about filling up the hoses to avoid having to burp the air out of this loop. I used the funnel method, worked great.
Just for grins & giggles, when I was finished with this, the raw water side had no flow!!! :cry4`
I traced it down to a worn Oberdorfer pump faceplate, replaced and now all is fine.
Yech! That looks like something out of "Alien". :rolling
Stu,
When I replaced my water heater (attwod I think)the new one had all the connections on the port side and I was initially concerned because the old one had the 5/8 hoses fron the engine connected on the stbd side but it worked out better anyway because it was easy to get the hoses to the access door and everything was in one place. Did you use wire re-inforced hose? I just used standard automotive 5/8 hoses because I didn't see a need for the re-inforced ones, but then maybe I did it wrong. The hose connections at the heater are 5/8 and they are one piece to the 3/8 reducers at the engine.
Do you think you could have done it without the tag line? It somehow worked for me, but then I don't have the microwave there and my connections were on the port side.
Glad it worked out for you.
Mike
Mike, here's a picture of the hose I used, was wire reinforced, perhaps could have done with regular, but what the heck, it's a boat! The hose, all 14 feet of it, cost $46.20 plus tax. I'd recommend wire reinforced anyway, since the damage to the old hose is plain to see, so regular hose would "die" more quickly, out of sight, out of mind.
I need to check again on the connection sizes at the heater because the 5/8 size could very well go all the way to the heater, and the barbs and extensions there seemed only to be for ease of connection of the then-new heater by the PO. In reviewing my pictures, it appears they could be the same size hose. At least those hoses, from the heater end of my new hoses to the heater, are not 20 years old, only 9 or 10. Thanks for noting that fact. Now I can kick myself for not going all the way! :cry4` Folks, get at least EIGHT feet of new hose. Mike's point is well taken, the new hose length depends on where your connections on the heater are located.
Tag line: In retrospect, I could have done it without the tag line, because as you and Craig mentioned, it is a push as well as pull effort. But I only knew that after I got the first hose through and found that I could reach it from the door. The tag lines helped immeasurably, though, because of that tight bend where the two hoses both go through the two holes in the engine space. There's that first little spot where one is actually on top of the other one, and then they seem to slide off to be next to each other. I pulled the first (forward) hose through only to the tag line, then started pushing the aft hose through the hole and needed to use an angled screwdriver to get the second hose to "bend" enough to turn 90 degrees. It would be doable without the tag lines, but I'm glad that I used the lines. Part of that approach came from running new wiring to our new alternator last year, so I got into the "tag line mode." Since I had to trim the heater ends of the hoses, the holes I put into the hoses got cut off anyway.
Thanks again for your help.
Stu, my heater didn't specify a "in" or a "out" for the engine coolent lines and I can't see that it would make a difference. What do you think? It seems to be working just fine. Did I just get lucky?
Mike
Mike, I thought about that too, based on your earlier post. So, I put the hoses back where they were originally, keeping track of each one. On the picture of the new hoses exiting the "hole" one of the tag lines is identified with black marking with a marking pen (I know, everything looks black from being pulled under the sole).
I was looking at the Universal manuals for another reason and noted that the manuals show in and out directions of flow from the thermostat/pump/engine side, but I agree that no mention is made at the heater end, since the engine manufacturer isn't "responsible" for that end. I also looked at my heater instruction/installation manual and found no in or out, just "connect here" -- and with 5/8 inch hose, so I guess you're right, the 5/8 inch hoses go all the way to the heater.
Based on the way the heaters are built, I don't think it makes a difference.
Oh, I just noticed this, under Maintenance, Item 1: "Check heat exchanger lines for leaks at regular intervals. A leak in the system will cause coolant loss and may damage engine." No kiddin'! :D :shock:
Maybe NOW I can finally get a dry bilge...
I replaced my hoses yesterday. Stu's picture was way too scary for me! I think my biggest challenge was getting the old wire reinforced hose off the hot water tank barbs. I pulled the drawer unit out to get more working space and even moved the fresh water pump. I remembered Stu's procedure and used some seizing wire to connect the hoses end to end. It must be a pretty tight curve under the pan, because the aft hose pushed in pretty hard. I think for that radius, wire reinforced would be required for reasonable flow. On the plus side, I found no evidence of chafe like is Stu's picture. Given that I can't pull over to the shoulder and call AAA when the boat stops, I feel very justified proactively replacing all the engine hoses.
Craig
Craig : With the AGE of our boats it's a constant maintenance challenge!!
Today one thing (water heater hoses), next propane hose?, exhaust hose? etc.? You can't let it get ahead of you!!
My 1st Mate said that if the USCG ever calls and asks "What kind of a boat are you"? she 'll answer a "Work Boat"!! :cry4`
Mike, how did you get the heater out? Did you have to tear the trim off the door or is it screwed in? I thought about going with a larger capacity isotherm; round tank
Cliff, one has always been required to remove the door trim to remove and replace the hot water heater. Assure that what you buy has the appropriate hose connections (front or rear) depending on how you hoses are positioned. I suggest you consider adding small extensions of hose from wherever your hose connections are with a simple butt connector to the hoses to the engine (see my story above), which will make it easier to connect those hose if necessary.
Normally you do have to remove the door trim to get the water heater out but I understand it's a tight fit, so I don't know if a larger capacity heater would fit. When I replaced mine, I also replaced the sink, fawcet and fresh water pump along with all hoses and clamps so I was able to drop mine in from the top. I've never had a problem with running out of hot water. The recovery is pretty quick on these heaters.
Good Luck,
Mike
Cliff -
Another way to extend effective capacity is to install a tempering valve to mix cold in with the 160+ deg. hot water to get 120 deg. output. They're available at: http://www.pexsupply.com/Categories.asp?cID=329&brandid=
Craig
[Stu 7/20/11 - that link didn't work, try this one: http://www.pexsupply.com/pex/control/search?SEARCH_STRING=tempering]
Craig, that's one way to do it, and a lot of C36 boats have that. My understanding is that it has caused more problems than it solves most likely due to lack of understanding of the concept.
Speaking of concepts, here's one about hot water: We installed a 180F thermostat after a recent experience documented on the board here some time ago. I was planning to switch back to a 160F, but after using the boat for awhile with the hotter hot water, I realized that perhaps we're using LESS hot water with it being so much hotter from the 180F heat transfer. When we want "tempered" (mix of hot and cold) water, we're using LESS hot water from the limited six gallon heater capacity. Although we're rarely run out of hot water any given evening, even washing all the dishes, it may not be that much of a difference, but the heat transfer math does work.
Guys : As I understand a thermostat the temperature # is when it opens. This means that it'll heat the coolant to that set temperature and then open so a 160 will open faster than a 180. Then the warm coolant will flow thru the water heater exchanging its heat with the water in the water heater. Once the thermostat temperature is reached the thermostate stays open until the engine is shut off.
I'd guess that after about 20 minutes of running the engine the hot water temperature for both the 160 and 180 thermostats should be about the same in temperate outside/ocean water conditions??
If you run into the situation where the thermostate stays partially closed (colder conditions) the coolant will be hotter and the same for the water in the hot water heater. But then the engine is also running hotter. :think
Ron - I think if the coolant in my engine is registering 180 degrees, my hot water is going to approach that as well. I think that's pretty dangerous at the sink or shower, so I added the tempering valve earlier this fall. We'll see next season how well it works out. Stu - I did a search on the C36 site and didn't find any references or matches to "tempering" or "mixing".
Craig
Craig, I don't think they have yet "named" it the way you have -- it's just been an ongoing "conversation" about "what's that danged valve for" type of thing. If I stumble across an example, I'll link it here. Just something that's been in the C36 Tech Notes in Mainsheet for years and years and occasionally on their MB.
Stu and Craig,
I think you are talking about two different things. The reference in the C36 messages to a mixing valve in the plumbing has nothing to do with restricting the temp of the domestic hot water. In earlier C36's there was a gate valve (installed at the factory) and a bunch of extra hoses which could be adjusted to completely or partially restrict the coolant flow to the WH. I've never been able to get a good reason for its existance. After checking with several sources (Universal dealer, mechanics, etc.), I removed it from my boat. It greatly simplified the plumbing around the engine. I believe what you would be looking for, Craig, is something that controls the output (domestic hot water) from the WH, and not the input (coolant). Hope this helps.
Tom - Yes, that's what I installed, a valve that blends cold water in with the very hot from the tank regulated to predictable temperature. The tempering valve works just like the thermostat on the engine, but is adjustable within a range of 120-160 degrees.
Craig
Thanks, Tom, the input side was what I was referring to. I never saw any reason for it either, complicated a simple two pipe source to and return from the heater. As I recall, it was never documented.
Guys : I've always thought that's what knobs on the faucet were for!!!!! :rolling
I am interested in the possibilty of replacing my 160 degree M35B engine thermostat with a 180 degree thermostat. It would appear that Stu and possibly others have done this with the M25. I have never understood why the engine is run at 160 degrees since I understand that you get more efficient operation at higher temperatures (obviously up to a limit). The Perkins on my 320 ran happily at 192 degrees. Does anyone know why Universal maintains that 160 degrees is the right temperature? Has anyone done the swap on a M35B?
I can't tell you what calculations and risk-assessments went through the engineers' minds at Universal, but I think you have to ask yourself just how much more "efficient" could your engine get by operating 20 degrees higher and what are the risks. These are tiny engines that consume minute amounts of fuel. What if you achieved a 5% gain in fuel consumption (I actually doubt any little fix could achieve a 5% gain)? If you run it 100 hours per year, you might save two gallons of fuel (doubtful it would be that much, but let's look at the high side). $7.00. Okay, so you've gained a beer at the yacht club bar. You've achieved that at the cost of having a 20 degree cushion to prevent catastrophic failure and damage if something goes wrong. That's probably an extra minute or two to notice the issue and do something about it. $7.00/year isn't worth it to me, not to mention that we've got tens of thousands (probably many more) engines "happily" running at 160 degrees over decades and very few running hotter with a long track record. Do you really want to become a guinea pig for $7.00?
Another mystery...
I replaced my engine to hot water heater hoses today and found this 2 inch long hollow piece of plastic stuff sticking a half inch out of the hot water tank outlet. Can't figure out if it's something that came unglued from inside the heater or was some form of flow restrictor put in by the PO. Anyone seen this before?
It does explain why the hot water always heated very slowly from engine heat!
Randy
Randy, in an earlier reply on this thread I mentioned extender hoses that the PO had tapped onto the engine HW connections when he replaced the heater in 1997, the year before we bought Aquavite. They served to make the final connections easier to avoid reaching all the way to the heater with the hoses, especially the forward connection.
Here's a picture I just happened to take yesterday of the aft one.
Stu/Craig,
Between water pumps and wheel pilots lately I'm not looking fondly at another job while the weather is so nice out west, BUT this thread has me thinking that I ought to check the hoses before heading across the Strait of Georgia on Friday.
Question is can I simply lift my galley sole and inspect the condition of the hoses...........Thanks.
Hawk
On my 1988 Mark 1, raising the floorboard will do nothing for you, the hoses have to come out for inspection. And if you are going to do all that, you may as well change them.
Quote from: Hawk on July 28, 2009, 09:56:17 PM
...can I simply lift my galley sole and inspect the condition of the hoses....
Sorry, nope, because if it was that easy do you think I'd have written this detailed description of how to pull them through? :cry4` The wood sole is over the fiberglass "shell" below.
Quote from: Hawk on July 28, 2009, 09:56:17 PM
I ought to check the hoses before heading across the Strait of Georgia..........
If your concern is losing coolant on this particular trip, then you could simply bypass the hoses that go to the hot water heater at the engine by connecting another hose where they start and end. You won't have hot water until you find shorepower, but you won't have the concerns during the crossing. Actually, the crossing should be the easy part, it's a
sailboat, right?
Right, we will be sailing across but at some point in the islands motoring is necessary.
Thanks for the info. No hint of a problem but this will go on the hot list.
Hawk
Tom : What Stu was trying to tell you is that the engine will run without the coolant going thru the water heater!
All you need is a short 3/4" piece of 3/8" hose and connect it from the internal waterpump to the thermostate housing. In other words remove the water heater hoses and take a piece of 3/8" hose and connect it to the two engine openings you took the heater hoses off of!
I've met a number of cruisers that have eliminated the hot water heater for one reason or another. In fact, all new engines come with that "jumper" hose and you have to remove it to connect it to a water heater. A thought
How to "SAVE" your antifreeze when doing this hose replacement: see How to BURP your engine: reply #6 here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4518.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4518.0.html)
When we bought the boat, a 1987, hull 367, the hoses were disconnected from the engine side, but still connected to the water heater. I pulled the hoses out, from the engine side, and they were old wire reinforced but did not look broken or damaged like Stu's.
The hoses were about 5 feet long each, the water heater has the connections on the port or inboard side.
I'm replacing with standard 5/8 heater hose based on that the old ones were not worn and chaffed.
The rest of this project should be as easy as pulling out the old hose.
Thank you,
Ralph
Ciao Bella
Replaced all the hoses and hooked it to the engine. Went out for 40 minutes of motoring yesterday and got hot water. Project completed. I was surprised after 40 minutes that it wasn't real hot and that the amount of hot rain out so quickly. Comments?
Ralph
Ralph,
That is odd. If I run less than that, the water is super hot. It doesn't usually take that long to get the water hot. Maybe you have some air trapped in the hose stopping a good flow of coolant into the HWH.
Ralph,
At what rpms were you "motoring around" for those 40 minutes? What thermostat do you have installed: 160 or 180? I agree with Roc, but if you did have air in the system you'd be overheating rather quickly. Wouldn't hurt to burp again, though.
If the air was only trapped in the lines to the water heater he wouldn't overheat...
Thanks for the comments guys. Some good questions there. After I put the hoses in I used a funnel to fill the hoses and HX, only took about 1/2 a gallon to fill. That was Wednesday. I ran it pier side long enough to check for leaks and bring engine up to temp. I have the 160 thermostat.
Friday first thing I checked was for leaks then checked the coolant, it was still right at the top. When I motored out I ran at about 2100 RPM most of the run, the temp was up to 160 and held very steady. I did notice that the temp seemed to take longer to come up then normal and I put that off to that it's now heating the water heater too so the cold water there will have an affect on how fast it comes to full operating temp. I know I'm getting full water circulation because both new hoses were hot and I did get hot water. Just not as fast as I kind of thought I would.
Ralph
Quote from: SD Diver on September 13, 2014, 01:49:28 PM
Thanks for the comments guys. Some good questions there. After I put the hoses in I used a funnel to fill the hoses and HX, only took about 1/2 a gallon to fill. That was Wednesday. I ran it pier side long enough to check for leaks and bring engine up to temp. I have the 160 thermostat.
Friday first thing I checked was for leaks then checked the coolant, it was still right at the top. When I motored out I ran at about 2100 RPM most of the run, the temp was up to 160 and held very steady. I did notice that the temp seemed to take longer to come up then normal and I put that off to that it's now heating the water heater too so the cold water there will have an affect on how fast it comes to full operating temp. I know I'm getting full water circulation because both new hoses were hot and I did get hot water. Just not as fast as I kind of thought I would.
Ralph
Ralph,
I have some experience w/ the WH and engine temp, because the MK-I C30 had ALL coolant going to the WH (it was in series with the Hx.) A mod switched it to the system on the 34, which I did several yrs ago.
Before, it was impossible to get hot domestic water at the slip or on a hook, because it takes forever for the thermostat to open (and push hot coolant thru the WH.) Afterward, I now get hot water very very quickly because (like the 34) the WH is connected to the water pump/thermostat bypass, so coolant immediately circulates to the WH.
I can't swear the iron genny runs cooler after the mod vs. before, but she does run cool - under 160F after my 2" Hx developed a pinhole leak between the coolant/sea water sides, and I switched to the 3" Hx -- which was way before doing the WH mod. Since I'm in fresh water, it's on my B List to switch to the 180F thermostat.
What you're saying makes some sense, up to when the thermostat opens and then the coolant going to the WH should be as hot as it will ever get. So, verify that the thermostat opens at 160 and not earlier. If you're in fresh water, want hotter domestic water, consider switching to the 180F thermostat.
The flow of coolant to the WH will also affect time and temp - so you might try all 5/8" hose - switch to 1/2" just before the tailpieces at the water pump and thermostat housing. Those tailpieces, I believe, are 1/8" JIS/British pipe thread, so there may be another tailpiece or barbed hose adapter that would go directly to 5/8" hose.
Also make sure there's no restrictions and have completely free flow to/thru/from the WH. Backflush the coil to make sure.
Ken K
Has anyone found a source (other than Westerbeke) for the direct 3/8" to 5/8" heater hose couplers/adapters for the T-stat bypass hose nipples to the water heater hoses?
WB has a #302391 brass barbed adapter and I believe they originally were nylon connectors.
I realize they can be made up from parts, just looking for the straight shot for a buddy....
Thx
I did the water heater replacement this weekend. Wow, what a mess I found. I've attached a few pictures. I took my Fein multi tool and cut off the existing connections instead of wrestling with trying to get them through the small opening.
An experienced boat mechanic taught me a trick a while ago for pulling hoses. Get a wooden dowel the same ID as the hose and cut a short length of it. Put it in the end of the old hose and the end of the new hose. Run a small screw thru the hose ends into the dowel. Works like a charm (unless there are hidden clamps). Anyhow, after getting everything in place I realized I have to modify the platform. Off to Home Depot today to finish the job. I did connect the heater hoses from the engine and burped the system. Seems to be working fine. This site is a great resource.
Well, I'm thinking of taking up the advice and replacing my water heater hoses...
I reading through these posts, it doesn't sound like a fun job as the hoses appear to be well anchored or even fastened underneath but I have a friend that will help so between us we should be able to conquer it. I spoke with the PO and he said he regularly inspected the hoses as best he could but hadn't had the need to replace these so they should be original 1999.
Wondering how much I can take apart to make this easier? I will pull out the shelving etc under the sink and take the engine compartment housing off. It doesn't look like I'll get anywhere by pulling up the sole floor as I'm pretty sure its just covering the fiberglass solid floor beneath?
Any tips on prepping to make this easier?
Pulling the new hoses was actually the easiest part for me. Of course I had the luxury of having the heater out first but I still don't think it will be too difficult for you. I used the 3" long piece of wooden dowel inserted in the old and new hoses with a small screw thru the hoses into the dowel to connect old and new hoses. (obviously cut off the section where the screw went thru the hose once you get them pulled thru) Worked like a charm for me. Pull from the engine side and push from the heater side and I think you'll be fine. I had the dish soap at the ready but didn't need it.
There definitely seems to be enough space under the floorboards.
Thanks John.
Lastly, not sure there is access to the hose run via a port under the sole at the base of the companionway ladder? Before pulling up the flooring, and only if needed, does anyone know if that is there on the MKII of my vintage?
Prefer to have a reason to tear it apart than just take a chance.... :)
Guys : I found that the brass hose fittings into the HW heater are stronger that the nylon, but will transmit the heat much easier than the nylon fittings.
Jim : If you are trying to replace the hoses to the head?, I don't believe that there is any obstruction to pulling the hoses thru. If you lift up the (Loincoin sp?) floorboards all you'll find is the flooring "pan" that hold the floorboards.
A thought
Thanks Ron,
Good to have checked as nothing worse than digging only to find a dead end...
Wish me luck and quick success!
Quote from: Jim Lucas on January 20, 2021, 09:07:40 AM
Well, I'm thinking of taking up the advice and replacing my water heater hoses...
I reading through these posts, it doesn't sound like a fun job as the hoses appear to be well anchored or even fastened underneath
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Wondering how much I can take apart to make this easier? I will pull out the shelving etc under the sink and take the engine compartment housing off. It doesn't look like I'll get anywhere by pulling up the sole floor as I'm pretty sure its just covering the fiberglass solid floor beneath?
Jim, the hoses are NOT well anchored. They are not anchored at all. If they were, there would be no way to replace them. While mine is a Mark I boat, the differences between yours and mine are the location of the heater.
The sole, whether the lon material at the galley or the teak & holly, are above full fiberglass. There is NO access to anything down below it.
Quote from: Jim Lucas on January 20, 2021, 02:08:51 PM
Lastly, not sure there is access to the hose run via a port under the sole at the base of the companionway ladder? Before pulling up the flooring, and only if needed, does anyone know if that is there on the MKII of my vintage?
Prefer to have a reason to tear it apart than just take a chance.... :)
Don't take up any flooring, it will get you nowhere.
If you go back to my posts with my pictures, they pretty well explain how to do the replacement.
Good luck.
Thanks Stu,
I did review all the previous notes and was just double checking a few thoughts before tackling this.
Cheers,
Jim
Jim : When I changed out my heater hoses to the head, I also slid some 1/2" pipe insulation on the hoses (hot & cold). Just wanted to protect the hoses incase there were any fiberglass chards in there that I couldn't see!!
Also did that to the engine to heater hoses - 3/4"!!
A few thoughts
Just finished replacing my HW heater hoses on my 99 MKII. Not quite the same as others had mentioned as it turns out there's a fibreglass channel that the hoses run through under the sole. With the age and eventual hardness baked into them, very difficult to get them to back out of that channel with the hardened bends in them.
I wound up having to run the two new hoses along side that old hose channel. The old hoses were just chopped and left in the channel as it would have meant cutting the floor apart to get them out.
Not much of a fun job to do but, based on the compromised hose condition, a great job to get done!
Have now completed replacement of most all the crucial hoses on the boat!
Sanitation hoses next. Yuck!