Our motor is sitting in the galley so I could pull the transmission. I plan to put in new motor mounts and wondered why some have changed to vetus . Also some used 50's , some used 75's and some have mixed them. If using 50's and 75's, which were put in front and back and why? I' m looking for information so I can make a good decision.
I think the current consensus is to use Vetus 75s both front and back on the 4 cylinder motors but some who have the 3 cylinder (M25 and 25XPs) have used 50s in front and 75s aft. When it comes time to do my 25XP, I plan to use 75s all around. Sorry, probably a not very helpful comment...
Quote from: Phil Spicer on November 24, 2023, 02:35:58 PM
Our motor is sitting in the galley so I could pull the transmission. I plan to put in new motor mounts and wondered why some have changed to vetus . Also some used 50's , some used 75's and some have mixed them. If using 50's and 75's, which were put in front and back and why? I' m looking for information so I can make a good decision.
Why not put your boat and engine info into the sidebar signature to help us help you?
Why Vetus isolators? Cus they are a better product than the original DF isolators at not much cost difference.
Based on hull number 798, I am guessing a 25XP.
Phil : I'm the guy that started the K50s in the front and the K75s in the rear!!
Why? because t I had all K50s and found that they were tooo soft - so I switched out the rears to K75 and all was well. Keeping the K50s in the front was just to save $$$ !!! and the work of changing the front mounts!!!!!
I'd go for all K75s!! After researching engine mounts I found that Vetus gave the best mount at the best price - and the mounting hole matched what I already had!!! Did that back in the mid- 1990s!!
A few thoughts
Phil, while you there, do you self a favor and change damper plate for after market from catalina direct (Trust me on that one!) and maybe, rear oil seal.
Also , would not hurt to change oil pressure sensor, and check/service starter.
sooo much easier when engine is out. Did those things last summer for peace of mind, while was changing motor mounts for vetus 75, all 4 (cause M35)
Phil : I'll second Greg's suggestions. What finally Killed my M25XP engine was the leaking rear (crankshaft) oil seal. I had pre-emped on one of my engine pulls (3!!!) and had already changed the damper plate.
A few thoughts
My thanks to all for your words of wisdom.
Gregory: I have done all but the rear oil seal. Will check into that.
Ron, Ken: I'll order Vetus 75 mounts this week. Appreciate your information.
Took the transmission to a local shop and was told parts would be no problem. Shop installed a complete rebuild kit and supplied a new (not CD) damper plate. Have a little wall section to replace on port side engine compartment, then will be looking for a warm day to put things back together.
Thank you for your guidance and advice
Phil
Phil
If you have it could you post the part number (supplier?) of the non-CD plate?
There seems to be some nightmare over which fits the m-25/m-25xp and others have found that the CD one has the correct diameter and others (including Sachs) listed as OEM for our tranny are too large.
https://groups.io/g/Catalina30/topic/92262458#110797
After detailing the engine on mine, I was able to see that the right fore mount was showing about half an inch of thread!
Ken, I'll try to get that information for you soon.
Ken, the transmission shop used Mack Boring for the transmission kit. For the damper plate they just went on line and put in the numbers on my damper plate. The new one slides on like the old one. Looks good.
Can you help with torque for the damper plate to the flywheel and flywheel to the engine? I can not locate my transmission book.
Thank you.
Phil the tranny repair manual is here
https://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals
Thats the only manual i have. It has some torque specs but i don't see everything you're looking for- but I'd think using the listed general torque values (for bolt size/grade) would work. Use locktite as well.
Do you have the number on your plate? Perhaps that's the problem some have run across - maybe a change in p/n over a production cycle?
Thank you Ken. Kurt sent that to me last week but no torque specs.I'll follow your advice plus the lock title.
The numbers on the old plate are 1866050002. Also has a stamping of F&S. Another number is 14, printed above
10. 86. There is a triangle above and before the 8.
New plate number is. C1S01220601A1, VULKAN.
Nothing is installed so I hope all goes well when I put it in gear.
[EDITED]
Phil
I just asked a C30 owner who replaced his and he said he "torqued them by feel" as he also had no specs to go by.
See also this post
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,11430.msg92576.html#msg92576
I just did the 75s front and back. The engine is much smoother, especially at idle. I used to get really bad shaking.
M25XP.
Guys : What I noticed when I replaced the original engine mounts is there was no more "buzzing/vibration" so my feet were "going to sleep" when were were motoring!! The Vetus mounts also smoothed out the engine at idle to a point were when I'd ask a marina owner/dock hands to give me the dock lines they would ask, "aren't you going to start the engine first?" - The engine was already running!!
A few thoughts
Checked the fit of the new damper plate and it fit fine. The specs say 122mm. It it is just a little under that,
121.42+ or- .01. The flywheel plate measures 121.60,+ or -.02. So far, all is good. Waiting for the Vetus mounts.
Expected to see you at the boat today working. Did you get the transmission back? Missing some good weather..
Just my 2 cents: if I had to do it over again I would have used the harder ones all the way around.
That's the plan.