Hello all, my partner and I have a full two months off work before she starts her new position in Thunder Bay, ON. We purchased a beautiful (Bristol condition, so says the survey) 1998 MKII in Kingston, ON with the intention of sailing her back, through the Great Lakes via the Welland Canal. We both have a few seasons experience as crew on other boats, but as new owners, the things like maintenance, as well as the complicated mechanical and electrical systems of a boat like this compared to the older, smaller C&Cs we're used to is a bit overwhelming. There is much to learn. We've decided to spend two weeks sailing daily around the Kingston area, doing drills, etc to learn and assess our comfort level before committing to the trip, however we are provisioning the boat as if the trip is a go.
To the question at hand:
I've read through many threads including the "spare parts 101" to try to determine what we should bring along, and I'm wondering if some of the commonly suggested items are more relevant to folks doing longer passages? Given my lack of experience, I can't really imagine myself changing an alternator or injectors out in the middle of Superior. So, I've lightened the list to things I think I could handle. Please let me know if you think this list is reasonable, overkill
(get myself into trouble), or really missing some important components (won't be able to get us out of trouble).
Spares
Primary and secondary fuel filters X4
Oil filter X2
Impeller kit X2
Jabsco Joker valve
Misc Screws, Nuts, Bolts, Shackles, bailing wire, tape, zip ties etc.
Engine oil 4 quarts
AFT 1 quart
Premixed coolant 1 Gal (previous owner mixed 60/40 rather than 50/50, any idea why?)
Tools
Socket set
Allen keys
Vise grips
Adjustable wrench
Filter wrench
Needle nose pliers
Hacksaw
Rubber mallet
Multimeter
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Aaron,
It sounds like you've got a fairly well thought out list started. I say started because as you go you probably be adding and deleting things from your lists. I'll just say this, don't make yourself crazy trying to think of everything, you can literally pack your boat with spares and tools, most of which you'll probably never use and as time goes by forget what you have or where it's at.
A well maintained boat will be the best thing you can do for keeping those lists to a minimum.
Regarding your list, you might want to add an alternator belt to your spares.
As a Great Lakes sailor for north of 15 years I'd say you've got a pretty complete list. Probably more than you need, but better safe than sorry. Keep in mind that help is never very far away on the Great Lakes. So for just about any problem you can sail or motor to port in less than a day. That said I would add a couple of items: fuses if you have anything fused, such as a bilge pump; some tapered, wooden plugs to stop a broken thru-hull; and some sort of emergency patch kit. Also, if you're familiar with electrical stuff, a basic set of electrical tools: wire stripper and cheap crimping tool with a set of cheap crimp connectors, a multi-meter and some spare wire (note: this is for quick fixes; if you're doing real electrical work or upgrades then get quality tools and parts). Good luck on your cruise and enjoy. The Sweetwater Seas are a wonderful for cruising.
Congratulations on your new boat and welcome.
You have already succeeded by simply doing your homework ahead of time. Good for you. :clap :clap :clap
Re: Alternator belt - reread the Critical Upgrades about belt alignment and belt sizing, just to allow you to check things out before you leave. That covers the M25 series, but it sounds like with your Mark II you have an M35. Still good to know at least how to change a belt. Maybe do so before you leave.
Re: coolant mix - no clue why, but for now as long as you know what the PO used and have more of that stuff, you can just keep on top of it. Know how to Burp your engine, IIRC in the 101 Topics.
Re: Systems - most all of us "stepped up" into our C34s from smaller, less complicated boats. You can't hurry time, but with your superb attitude, it appears that you'll do just fine.
Have a wonderful trip, safe journey.
Check that your filter wrench will fit your filters. I learned the hard way I needed to add a small size strap wrench on the boat.
A couple more items always good to have onboard -
Spares
a) fuses of size and type you have in the electrical system - engine harness if no where else
b) multimeter, #8 and #10 ring and butt wire connectors, crimper, stripper, a few feet each of 16, 14, 10 AWG boat wire for small/quick fixes
c) spare rope
d) tape, pens, pencils, erasers, Sharpie
e) thread sealant
f) butyl, silicone, or some type temporary sealant in case a portlight starts to leak
g) AAA, AA, C size batteries to match your flashlights, electronics, etc
Tools
a) flat blade screwdriver, at least small and medium size
b) #2 phillips screwdriver
c) adjustable pliers
d) combination wrenches, imperial and metric (some engine fasteners are metric) because sometimes a socket/vise grip won't fit
e) if you think you'll be changing an engine belt have a spare belt, and a tool to retension the belt
f) scissors, Xacto knife, utility knife
g) snap ring pliers with pins the proper size for the raw water pump snap ring (if it's still there)
h) small LED flashlight that can strap to your head
i) fine grade sandpaper in case you have an electrical connection not working because of corrosion
Consider having a product such as "StayaFloat" putty and/or epoxy putty stick onboard.
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/stay-afloat--stay-afloat-leak-plug-and-sealant-14-oz--11142122?cm_mmc=PS-_-Google-_-GSC%3ENonB%3EProduct%2520Type-_-11142122&product_id=11142122&creative=108421552804&device=m&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIt-XAurGq6gIVUT2tBh3n5gJ7EAQYASABEgI0r_D_BwEAlso
A selection of hose clamps
Some high temp fiber tape for hose repair.
Spare shackles and cotter pins
Second anchor and rode
A friend gifted me this tool box in 1998, it includes just about everything one would need. The most important part is that all tools are CAPTIVE inside the case.
While I have an assortment of other specialty tools that I've worked up over the years on this boat, or ones I like better than those that came with this set, it is my "go to" tool box. An example: I like the ratchet from my Craftsmen socket set much better than this one because the Sears set is a simple lever instead of a half turn on this one. I know, picky picky, but when it's dark out and you need to shift from open to close with one hand...
Aaron : I'm a tool nut.
1. All 3 size Phillips screwdrivers - all 3 size flat tip screwdrivers (#3 can be used as a pry bar)
2. Open end/box end wrenches 3/4" and under both SAE and Metric (ratchet swivel box end)
3. Sockets - Craftsman makes a socket set with a hole in the center negating the need for both standard & deepwell SAE & Metric
4. small and large needle nose pliers - small and large wire cutters
5. strap wrench (filter wrench will NOT fit the Racor filter)
6. Cotter pins and rings
7. Beside spare impellers, I'd suggest a spare raw water pump (ready to go - which much easier than changing an impeller underway!!)
A few thoughts
Quote from: Ron Hill on June 30, 2020, 02:13:16 PM
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I'd suggest a spare raw water pump (ready to go - which much easier than changing an impeller underway!!)
There are four studs holding the pump onto the engine. At least two of the four take a lot of small turns with an open end wrench to get off.
There are four simple screws holding the cover of an Oberdorfer pump faceplate onto the pump.
It is far easier to remove the faceplate than the pump to change an impeller. To remove the pump you also need to remove the hoses attached to it.
And as Ken Kloeber keeps reminding us, you do NOT need the circlip on the impeller, so pulling the shaft out and sliding a new one in is child's play.
Just get a spare pump shaft and pre-mounted impeller.
*************
If you have pump problems, like the seals are gone, different story. And you wouldn't be doing that underway anyway, least I wouldn't. :D
Thanks guys, I'll definitely be adding a few things to my list as suggested. The belts all are in great condition, so I don't think I'll mess with them before the trip, however I do have spares, I forgot to include them on my list. I've had mixed advice regarding doing an impeller change. In the past I've heard it should be done as preventative maintenance every season, however, a few folks at the marina who knew the previous owner well (he passed away suddenly in late summer) have told me not to touch anything, because he was so meticulous and skilled, that anything I do will likely be unnecessary, and possibly detrimental. Several old impellers which he kept on the boat appear in good condition, and from his fuel log I can see that they did not spend much time on the water last season compared to in past years. Does it seem likely I should leave it alone for now?
I hadn't heard of Stay Afloat, it looks like a pretty amazing product, unfortunately not available at my local chandlery. They do have JB WaterWeld epoxy putty sticks, which seems to be a much smaller format, any experience with that product?
You may know this so no offense intended, but just in case-
A circlip is the same thing as a snap ring. Different names for retainer rings.
Similarly open end/box end wrenches are the same as combination wrenches. SAE is similar to imperial in that both imply sizing in inches.
Just don't want you thinking this is more mysterious than it is. 8)
Stu & Guys : I've had to change out for a broken impeller underway - twice
The First time the boat was only 6 months old and the impellor was FROZEN to the shaft and I had to sail to the dock!! My 1st Mate asked if we were going to practice this? I told her this is like a wheel up landing - NO practice!! Later At home I was unable to get the shaft off the impeller even with a larger hammer and vice!!
The Second time we were under way with full sail (after the engine temp pegged) when I went below to "simply" change out the impellor. The wind piped up (with the steps out and me below taking the engine apart) - the 1st Mate was calling for HELP sailing and the black flys were eating my ass alive.
GET A Second pump!!!!
My two cents worth after 18 years with my 1988 Mark I: Space is a premium. You mention oil filter and 4 qts of oil, coolant. These are dock side or winter maintenance chores. You don't change your oil or coolant at sea, during the Summer, or on a cruise. Leave them home and bring an extra blanket and pillow. I've never had to use any of these items. Tools, tools, tools, if you can think of one, bring it along. I've used every one I've ever brought along and improvised a few, using my Swiss Army Knife for everything else. Rescue Tape temporarily fixes every serious leak to get you back to port, Duct Tape fixes everything else. Thread (and needles), small and medium lines-you always need to use them for something. Have a great time. Your life is about to get much better!
Quote from: Analgesic on July 01, 2020, 07:16:38 PM
My two cents worth after 18 years with my 1988 Mark I: Space is a premium. You mention oil filter and 4 qts of oil, coolant. These are dock side or winter maintenance chores. You don't change your oil or coolant at sea, during the Summer, or on a cruise
The reason for all the oil is that the manual says to change every 100 hours. While I hope to motor as little as possible, I figured with prevailing westerlies, I could be due for a change part way through the journey. How far is it reasonable to push beyond "recommendations" while on a cruise?
Aaron,
Motoring past 100hrs shouldn't be a problem with in reason of course, say 10 or 20 hours. If you think you'll go past that maybe you should consider an oil and filter change before you start your trip. An oil and filter change in your home slip will be much easier than anywhere else.
Ron,
Two pump failures while underway! Remind me never to stand next to you a craps table.
Quote from: Analgesic on July 01, 2020, 07:16:38 PM
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You don't change your oil or coolant at sea, during the Summer, or on a cruise. Leave them home and bring an extra blanket and pillow.
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I do not believe this is true at all.
I have always carried fluids of all kinds with me, even though I had a pretty good sized dock box back in San Francisco and none here (18 years there and four here). Oil, coolant, ATF, cleaners, wax, distilled water, etc. You name it, I have it. And it is all in the port locker in a few plastic crates, with plenty of room left over for lines, boat hooks, brushes and the ubiquitous bucket.
I call it our "Toxic Waste Dump." :D
One should
regularly check all fluids: oil, coolant, and battery water for sure.
Say you have a small leak, from either a loose hose clamp (that somehow loosened itself --- there's a REASON the Critical Upgrades topic recommends checking your engine while it's running!) or a frayed hose end, and your coolant is low. It happens.
I was cruising in the San Juan Islands a couple of years ago and discovered an oil leak. I wrote it up as a
Tech Note last year in
Mainsheet magazine. I had to replace a stud on my raw water pump. There was oil all over the place. But I had oil with me that allowed me to get home (a five hour motor trip), and do the repair in my slip.
I check my battery water regularly, and almost always have to add a little distilled water because when you use your boat you are using your batteries, and charging always bubbles off a bit of battery acid - this is basic chemistry 101.
If you are going on a cruise, you should/must/better
take what you need with you. It ain't gonna help you if it's sitting in your garage at home or in your dock box 50 miles away.
And an extra pillow isn't gonna help, either.
I often say "Your boat, your choice." :D In this case, this doesn't apply. In this case, best practice says take it with you, 'cuz you might need it, and if you do need it and you don't have it, you are simply SOL. Which is a rather stupid place to be.
I'm also on the side of having extra fluids on the boat.
Several years ago while pulling into an anchorage and preparing to slow as I approached the anchor boat I slipped the gearbox into reverse on my then Yanmar and heard a rather weird grinding noise. Turns out the nut that held the coupling onto the output shaft of the gearbox had somehow loosened itself and backed off to the point that the whole coupling pulled right out of the back of the transmission. The collar of the PSS shaft seal kept the prop shaft from sliding too far back but it did slide back far enough that the entire gearbox emptied itself into the bilge.
Reattaching the coupling took about an hour (+,-) but I had no extra transmission fluid on the boat and I was in a remote anchorage about 15 miles from our dock. Transmission fluid was the ONE item I didn't have...and it was the one item I needed!!!! AAARRRRGGGHHHH!!!!!!!!! :cry4`
I keep spares just as Stu mentioned, and I check my fluids and fittings regularly too (including the coupling) , it's just good insurance against the next showing of Murphy and his darn law.....
QuoteThe reason for all the oil is that the manual says to change every 100 hours. While I hope to motor as little as possible, I figured with prevailing westerlies, I could be due for a change part way through the journey.
I'm not that much of a sailing purist, only plan on sailing half the time on a cruise. Like to keep the speed at least 3kn and eta before 5 if I'm going to a yacht club or marina, unless it's a place I know well. Often I'll motor sail for speed and comfort. During long cruises I've done oil changes. Can't depend on where you decide to do the oil change that they will have a place for the used oil and filter, so need to plan to carry the old oil. Not ideal but sometimes I only do an change oil, not filter, can store used oil in my oil extractor but don't want to deal with the filter.
Jim
Quote from: Jim Hardesty on July 02, 2020, 11:32:44 AM>>>>>>>>>>>>
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During long cruises I've done oil changes. Can't depend on where you decide to do the oil change that they will have a place for the used oil and filter, so need to plan to carry the old oil. Not ideal but sometimes I only do an change oil, not filter, can store used oil in my oil extractor but don't want to deal with the filter.
Good points, Jim. On our six week cruise to BC from SF, we did an oil change during the week we were tied up in Fort Bragg due to high winds. Kept the filter, but changed the oil. It's a very good trick I heard about from a fellow skipper.
Of course, my log actually says: "...forgot to change the filter after stowing all the oil change equipment..."
I'm willing to live with the "good trick" concept, if you'll let me. :shock: :D