Hi all,
I have my boom off, both end caps removed and going to upgrade to a 5 to 1 purchase. My question is, for those of you that used Garhauer blocks, did you go with 15 or 20 series blocks?
Steve
Steve : It's been a number of years, but as I recall the out haul line is 1/4" line which requires a small block.
I do remember that I found the outhaul line all twisted on the inside and almost impossible to pull anymore. Solved that by changing the swiveling block to a non swiveling block. All is well 20 years later!
Thanks Ron,
My outhaul was also all twisted because of the swiveling block, and yes, it was 1/4 inch line. I will replace with non-swiveling blocks. The 20 series blocks are 1 11/16 diameter and the ones I removed were 1 inch.
Steve
Steve,
I did the outhaul project about 15 years ago, and here are the parts I used for my C36 TR. Your C34 might have slightly different dimensions, but I'd be willing to bet they are very close:
30' double braid line, 5/16"
12' plastic coated 1/8" SS 7x7 (or 7x19) wire (7/32" OD), with SS thimbles swaged on both ends
Harken #085 Double Block w/Becket
Harken #086 Triple Block
2 Harken #311 Ball Bearing Sheaves
Wichard #1413 Long "D" Shackle
8 ΒΌ-20x1/2" SS Hex Head Bolts
When I sold the boat last year, it was still working perfectly. Hope this helps.
The 5/16" line was enough to bring the outhaul line back to the cockpit. The hex head bolts were to replace the pan head screws for the end caps.
Tom,
Now that is a great response.
I also did away the the screws on the end caps. I tapped to 10 - 24 which might be a little small but better that the screws that were in there.
thank you
Steve
Steve : Just make sure that you use some grease or lanacoat the threads of those dissimilar metals! A thought
I'm doing the outhaul upgrade as Tom outlined.
I'm thinking of using aluminum pop rivets instead of screws to re-attach the end caps. That way it will be easy for the next guy to drill them out in 15 years in case the same job has to ever be redone.
Thoughts?
Roland Gendreau
Gratitude#1183
Careful, it could be you back in there sooner than you think. The large hex pin .75" (?) that connects the boom to the gooseneck is only secured inside the endcap with a cotter pin. Mine broke/wore away this year and it was a bear to get that end cap off. Seems to me a more sturdy pin than a cotter would be better. Maybe while your in there you can address that as well. Then it might be the next owner who has to take it off.
Ed
Roland : If you are determined to use pop rivits - I'd be careful of using aluminum pop rivits, stainless might be better in a salt water enviornment, if you are bound and determined to use pop rivits.
A thought
Rivets? Yuck. Drilling out? BAD idea.
Use Tom's idea and NO ONE will EVER have to worry about getting inside again.
Wish MY PO had done it Tom's way. :D
If you've never tapped out a hole for a bolt (make the threads), it's very easy. Go to any hardware store and buy the appropriate sized tap (just a few dollars). Take a piece of aluminum (I bought some from Home Depot) and try it a few times for practice. Drill out the hole (size it for the size of the bolt minus the thread size - you can size it by eye. (I think the hole is one size smaller than the bolt size.) Then use the tap. Start slowly and keep it nice and streight. Turn the tap a bit, reverse, turn (1/4 turn) and reverse. Repeat that 'till the tap goes all the way in. Use some oil to make it easier and also to not dull the tap. It's a bit messy so have paper towels laid down and have a shop vac set up to clean up the metal shavings. Try the bolt; it should go in easily! Piece of cake.
Steve, I agree with Scotty not to use pop rivits for this application. Drill and tap, very easy, and if you have to get in there at a later time, you will thank yourself for doing it this way, and as stated in one of the replys, use lanocote or neverseeze on the bolt threads...Jeff
hi,
If you plan on tapping to put some bolts.
Check the link and you'll have a chart for drill size vs thread size.
http://www.newmantools.com/tapdrill.htm
As mentionned before, while you'll be turning the tap to make the thread, as it get harder, stop, reverse a bit to clean the tap, and re-start.
Use some oil, could be WD-40 that you spray the tap with.
Ok I will go with hex bolts, not rivets.
I decided to re-paint the boom while I had it in the garage and had some time awaiting hardware to be delivered.
See photo below...3 coats of Interlux one part polyurethane.
Roland
Very nice!
Did you spray it or roll it? Looks very nice.
I rolled it on with a foam roller, and smoothened out the bubbles with a fine bristle brush.
Sanded with 320 grit between coats.
I hung the boom from the garage ceiling so I could paint it without resting it on anything.
Roland
I cannot get the four screws off the endcap with an impact driver an PB Blaster. Don't want to use heat since it will ruin the paint. Thinking I will have to drill the screws out but concerned with being off center and ruining the treads in the boom and endcap. Has anyone had to drill the encap screws to remove? What size bit or other advice not to "screw" up.
Quote from: mark_53 on November 04, 2014, 03:44:25 PM
I cannot get the four screws off the endcap with an impact driver an PB Blaster. Don't want to use heat since it will ruin the paint. Thinking I will have to drill the screws out but concerned with being off center and ruining the treads in the boom and endcap. Has anyone had to drill the encap screws to remove? What size bit or other advice not to "screw" up.
Are you using an impact driver or a hammer and impact driver?
Might try tightening to the point of snapping them off, then carefully grind flat w/ a dremel.
Can you get a vice grip on the heads to looser or snap them off?
Then you can more precisely drill them out after removal.
Luckily mine backed right out - 30 year old fresh water boat tho.
Ken K
Quote from: KWKloeber on November 04, 2014, 07:36:27 PM
Are you using an impact driver or a hammer and impact driver?
Using impact driver and hammer. Also tried my 20V drill/driver.
Quote from: KWKloeber on November 04, 2014, 07:36:27 PM
Might try tightening to the point of snapping them off, then carefully grind flat w/ a dremel.
Can you get a vice grip on the heads to looser or snap them off?
They would have to be ground below the surface of the boom thickness. Seems pretty difficult. Not enough surface for vice grips. but thanks for the ideas!
To grind the screw stubs below the thickness of the boom, you would use a Demel with a rotary resp, and there is a grinding surface on the round face of the resp.
You could also conceiveably use a round stone and grind on the round face, but I think that would be slower going. Either way, it wouldn't be a piece of cake.
You might try drilling a small pilot and using an 'easy out'. Before that I would try a bit that grabs what's remaining of the screw head, and bites in in reverse direction. I don't know what they are called, but my set (gift) are Craftsman.
A true impact drill/ driver works better than a hammer/impact tool.
http://www.sears.com/search=screw%20extractor&Sears?filter=storeOrigin&catalogId=12605&previousSort=ORIGINAL_SORT_ORDER&viewItems=50&storeId=10153&levels=Tools&searsTab=true
The first one is the set that I have, tho some of the others look more stout.
Ken
Quote from: KWKloeber on November 05, 2014, 08:38:58 AM
http://www.sears.com/search=screw%20extractor&Sears?filter=storeOrigin&catalogId=12605&previousSort=ORIGINAL_SORT_ORDER&viewItems=50&storeId=10153&levels=Tools&searsTab=true
The first one is the set that I have, tho some of the others look more stout.
Ken
I'd be worried about snapping one of those since they are pretty small screws, than I'd have a bigger problem. Will probably try renting a pneumatic driver next. Thanks!
I had a the same issue. I just drilled them out then went to a slightly bigger screw. No need to tap. Used self tapping SS screws. Then backed them out, put some no seize on them and re-screwed in.
Ed
My experience is once the dissimilar metal corrosion sets in, best to drill them out. That's what I did with any "problem fasteners" on my boom and mast. However I had the luxury of then doing a full repaint; sanding, prime, LP spray, and new rigging and wiring. Expensive, but better than new. If you are not going to such heroics, and are worried about scratches or drilling larger holes...don't worry. Cut or grind off flush, use a center punch and drill out fasteners with sharp cobalt bit. Then, either tap larger or use larger self tapping machine screws. You can spot touch-up scratches with enamal paint and/or cover them with washers.