I installed a new water heater last weekend (new hoses as well). The Whale/Seaward unit that replaces the OEM in our boats. They recommend installing an anode, replacing the drain spigot that comes installed. I did that and it leaked. Tried snugging it in some more, still leaked. Tried using plumbers putty, still leaked. Fed up, I reinstalled the spigot. Figured if this lasts as long as the original, it will be some else's problem!
My reason for bringing this up is I'm curious if others who have replaced their water heater and installed the anode experienced the same thing?
BTW, removing and reinstalling the rear base bracket screws blindly was a challenge! Not sure if my boat is different, but the base for the water pump and tank valves are raised up next to the base for the water heater, leaving about 1.5" inches between the back of the heater and the vertical wall of the raised pump base!
Regards,
Ed
Ed : On that inside old heater bracket - you need a LONG screwdriver!!
A thought
Ed, screwdriver thing covered in my detailed 2014 tech note: https://c34.org/hot-water-heater-plumbing-galley-sink-drain-replacement/
I've read about the anode, never felt a need for it, on my third heater in 32 year old boat, 22 with me.
Ed
There is a heavy-duty teflon tape -- gray -- that I use when threads are leaking. It's a dual-edged sword - you want good metal-to-metal thread contact for the anode to do its job.
How tight did you have it? The typical for metal threads is hand tight plus 1/2 to 3/4 wrench turn (and 1/2 turn for pvc threaded fittings.) You want the threads to cut thru any sealant so the seal resides just in the little space between the peak and valley of the thread. My grandfather used to carry a softball size of thin cord that he wrapped into the valley of the male thread. Now it's called Locktite 55, and costs more $ for less thread. :shock:
(https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-03842/images/stencil/2048x2048/products/48885/67717/55-150_1__18545.1460383230.jpg?c=2)
Yeah, I very long screwdriver Ron!
Actually what I did was use extensions on my ratchet for the length and a Phillips bit. Still, hard to find the one furthest away. Used a small mirror and flashlight to locate then poked around make the connection to the screw head. To reinstall, I switched to a hex head screw so that the screw would be held better by the socket. I first tried using a dab of butyl putty to hold the Phillips head screw, but it was too wobbly. Switching screw heads did the trick.
A well trained octopus would have been useful...
Ed