question, regarding new sails:
Is it 'normal' for the topping lift to snag the roach of our sails on the C34 Tall rig?
Thanks.
Paul
Not that I am advocating spending more $... but a ridged boom vang solves all topping lift issues.
Sure, whenever we don't ease off the topping lift enough, it can catch. So we ease it some more.
In our case the topping lift is primarily used for raising our Dutchman flaking system, but does get used to hold the boom once in awhile,... whenever I disconnect the rigged van over the winter.
Quote from: britinusa on December 06, 2015, 06:00:28 PM
question, regarding new sails:
Is it 'normal' for the topping lift to snag the roach of our sails on the C34 Tall rig?
Thanks.
Paul
On my 30, I designed up a 'keep away' -- harken bullet blocks running on the topping lift and backstay, with 1/4" shock cord between. Works great.
kk
Ken, where is the back stay block located (near the top or lower down on the stay)?
Paul
I have the same issue. Would be interested in a pic or description.
Thanks,
Paul
Quote from: britinusa on December 07, 2015, 07:07:39 AM
Ken, where is the back stay block located (near the top or lower down on the stay)?
Paul
Paul,
The system rides up and down the backstay and topping lift until it equilibrates with the distance between the TL and BS (depending on boom position). I originally had a wire TL, since switched to a line TL, so I need to switch to a little larger block on that end. The trick is playing with the length of the shock cord and tight you keep the TL when sailing. Once the cord length is set to suit you, when you lower the boom, you'll put a little tension on the TL to keep it pulled away from the roach when the sail crosses centerline. It takes som,e playing with to get it correct for the 34 rig.
Copied from IC30A forum:
Paula,
See attached. I used a Harken cheek bullet block that swivels open so that I could slip the sheave over the Backstay and wire topping lift. If your topping lift is heavier than 1/4" you'll need to come up with a larger block.
With the topping lift taut (boom raised), the keep-away runs up and sits about 2/3 up the backstay (depending on the length of the shock cord.) With the boom lowered, the keep-away rides up and down the backstay depending on the point of sail (boom position) and as the boom swings during a tack or gybe.
The length of the shock cord isn't all that critical (shorter is better,) but has to be long enough so that -- at its top-most position on the backstay -- it's long enough to reach the other block on the topping lift. I think about 12" is right, but you can trial and error it. I've never tried it, but a light line tied between the blocks might also work (UV kills the shock cord after a season or so.)
Any other questions, let me know!
Cheers,
Ken Kloeber(//)
(//)
Pretty clever!
I have the new Wire Topping lift ready to install next time I climb the mast (may be this coming weekend)
So... when bearing off, the 'keep away' rises up the topping lift & back stay and when heading up, the Keep Away falls.
Right?
Paul
Quote from: britinusa on December 07, 2015, 01:02:20 PM
Pretty clever!
I have the new Wire Topping lift ready to install next time I climb the mast (may be this coming weekend)
So... when bearing off, the 'keep away' rises up the topping lift & back stay and when heading up, the Keep Away falls.
Right?
Paul
CORRECT Paul! The length of the shock cord and relative angles of the rigging determines the pinch point on the TL and how far that point gets pulled away from the roach.
I found the wire TL (and cleat forward on the boom) to be a real PITA -- but had an unused masthead sheave and an unused line clutch -- and so decided it was better/safer to be able to adjust it from the cockpit than climbing forward. So I 'reversed' the TL, ran it down the mast internally, and back to the unused clutch. Consequently, I need to either up-size the TL block on the keep-away a little, or go to a combination wire/rope TL. I won't ever give up having it led to the cockpit! I don't know how a heavier block would affect where the pinch point settles out, but I imagine that adjusting TL tension would account for it. (I have several "clevers' - but no time to write them all up! Do you ever have a courtesy flag get wrapped around the spreader halyard? I have fixed that permanently and was going to manufacture/sell same -- no time (yet)!!
kk
Quote from: KWKloeber on December 07, 2015, 01:23:57 PM
CORRECT Paul! The length of the shock cord and relative angles of the rigging determines the pinch point on the TL and how far that point gets pulled away from the roach.
Do you ever have a courtesy flag get wrapped around the spreader halyard? I have fixed that permanently and was going to manufacture/sell same -- no time (yet)!!
kk
Flag on a tube! :thumb:
Paul
Ken, years ago I had an idea of making a bike crank wheel oval so that greater leverage would occur when the peddles were at 1oclock. Kept it on the backburner for something I would patent one day..
They beat me to it!
If you have an idea - Do it Now!
paul
I have the same issue on my tall rig.
Do you have 4 full battens
Mine is snagged by a batten which stuck out a bit from its pocket
Cutting it back solved that problem
I would not adopt a system that involves more lines, blocks and other things to tangle
Brinitusa - the oval/eccentric chainrings have already been done. I have them on my smallest chainring on my touring bike and tandem.
I must be missing something?
I raise my main, then slack the topping lift and sail away.
No problems.
Quote from: lazybone on December 09, 2015, 07:27:57 PM
I must be missing something?
I raise my main, then slack the topping lift and sail away.
No problems.
Just spent 6 boat bucks on new sails. The topping lift wipes across the roach of the new main.
The old sails are in my garage and it would be a pain to get them back up the mast to see if the old main also was wiped by the topping lift.
New Sails - hoping to preserve them, the old ones were originals - 27 years old! Still usable, stretched, wearing thin on the leach line trailing edge.
Paul
QuoteI must be missing something?
I raise my main, then slack the topping lift and sail away.
No problems.
Think some are talking fixed and some are talking adjustable topping lifts.
Jim
Ours has the topping lift wire fixed at the mast head with a block near the bottom then a line fixed to the stbd side of the boom and through the block then over the block on the port side of the boom and lead fwd to a cleat on the forward port side of the boom.
Paul
Quote from: britinusa on December 10, 2015, 03:46:05 AM
Quote from: lazybone on December 09, 2015, 07:27:57 PM
I must be missing something?
I raise my main, then slack the topping lift and sail away.
No problems.
Just spent 6 boat bucks on new sails. The topping lift wipes across the roach of the new main.
The old sails are in my garage and it would be a pain to get them back up the mast to see if the old main also was wiped by the topping lift.
New Sails - hoping to preserve them, the old ones were originals - 27 years old! Still usable, stretched, wearing thin on the leach line trailing edge.
Paul
I understand... you want your new sails to last longer than 27 years.
Quote from: Jim Hardesty on December 10, 2015, 07:32:33 AM
QuoteI must be missing something?
I raise my main, then slack the topping lift and sail away.
No problems.
Think some are talking fixed and some are talking adjustable topping lifts.
Jim
Sorry didn't know Catalina made a fixed toping lift?
When did they do that?