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#1
Main Message Board / Re: Oil/temp warning
Last post by KWKloeber - Today at 10:57:59 PMQuote from: dclintonbaker on Today at 09:21:16 PMthanks for your continuing interest Ken.
Oil switch is an open circuit with the engine off and closed circuit with the engine running.
My current project is the reconnect all of the leads from the engine to the harness that runs aft to the instrument panel.
@d
Did your mechanic do any troubleshooting (before or after replacing the switch and alarm)?
Your switch is operating correctly. (The closed switch when you have oil pressure is supposed to power the fuel pump.)
With the key switch on, check the voltage at both switch terminals to ground.
Then we are going to take the switch out of the equation so we can test with the engine off (no oil pressure):
Make up a short male-to-male jumper
(or get a male-to-male adapter at the auto parts)
Jumper together the two terminals.
Tape it so it can't short out to the engine.
There should be TWO wires on one of the terminals, so check around to ensure there's nothing loose.
Something appears to be abnormal on your harness because there **should** be a third wire (probably blue) running from the switch (your yellow terminal) to the alternator EXCITE terminal.
With the switch terminals jumpered and key on, listen for the fuel pump clicking.
Does the alarm sound? Faint or loud?
Report back!
#2
Main Message Board / Re: Oil/temp warning
Last post by dclintonbaker - Today at 09:21:16 PMthanks for your continuing interest Ken.
Oil switch is an open circuit with the engine off and closed circuit with the engine running.
My current project is the reconnect all of the leads from the engine to the harness that runs aft to the instrument panel.
Oil switch is an open circuit with the engine off and closed circuit with the engine running.
My current project is the reconnect all of the leads from the engine to the harness that runs aft to the instrument panel.
#3
Main Message Board / Re: ? Sudden overheating?
Last post by Schulcb - Today at 05:45:19 PMNow with nicer weather, I've gone through the Teleflex trouble shooting guide.
Here are my findings following the steps on pg 348:
1. voltage from I to G terminals is 12.5V. No wire on the "S" terminal, gauge rests below 120'F. "S" and "G" terminals are connected, gauge reads >240'F.
2. resistance of the sender is 435 ohms at 97'F.
I cut back the sender wire at the sender to ensure "bright" copper and crimped a new marine ring terminal.
I checked the bus bar connections within the navpod housing, all looked to be in good condition. Gauge still rests at >240'F.
I ran a new wire directly from the sender to the "S" on the gauge. Gauge still shows >240'F.
Based on #3 on the trouble shooting guide, is the sender shorted (0 ohms)?
Not sure where to go from here. Any advice would be appreciated.
I'll try to call the Teleflex number on Monday, but I can't find them on the internet, so I don't think they are around any longer.
Thanks,
Craig
Here are my findings following the steps on pg 348:
1. voltage from I to G terminals is 12.5V. No wire on the "S" terminal, gauge rests below 120'F. "S" and "G" terminals are connected, gauge reads >240'F.
2. resistance of the sender is 435 ohms at 97'F.
I cut back the sender wire at the sender to ensure "bright" copper and crimped a new marine ring terminal.
I checked the bus bar connections within the navpod housing, all looked to be in good condition. Gauge still rests at >240'F.
I ran a new wire directly from the sender to the "S" on the gauge. Gauge still shows >240'F.
Based on #3 on the trouble shooting guide, is the sender shorted (0 ohms)?
Not sure where to go from here. Any advice would be appreciated.
I'll try to call the Teleflex number on Monday, but I can't find them on the internet, so I don't think they are around any longer.
Thanks,
Craig
#4
Main Message Board / Re: engine room sound insulati...
Last post by Noah - Today at 01:23:38 PMWhether you use the spray glue or sticky back insulation product, you should ALSO USE screws and washers. Also, I disagree with Ron regarding 1-1/4 inch thick. You will have difficulty fitting that thick of insulation in several locations inside the box—particularly on the removable stairs and opening door next to the alternator.
#5
Main Message Board / Re: engine room sound insulati...
Last post by Ron Hill - Today at 12:41:03 PMGuys : I used screws with washers to in stall mine. Also I installed the 1 1/4 thick!!
A thought
A thought
#6
Main Message Board / Re: What's under the stern lad...
Last post by MarknCat - Today at 12:17:31 PM
#7
Main Message Board / Re: What's under the stern lad...
Last post by MarknCat - Today at 11:38:42 AMThanks. I am chasing rust stains on the stern and I believe it's coming from the ladder rivets and possible mounts. I wanted to pull the mounts to clean them and the bolts and seal with butyl tape.
Then I noticed I have an extra bolt hole, like the mount had been moved back or something. So I filled it and sealed around the mount with 4200 instead. Next time I have the back opened up I'll investigate further.
Then I noticed I have an extra bolt hole, like the mount had been moved back or something. So I filled it and sealed around the mount with 4200 instead. Next time I have the back opened up I'll investigate further.
Code Select
26 #8
Main Message Board / Re: engine room sound insulati...
Last post by Noah - Today at 09:27:31 AMSearch our website using term "Soundown".
Defender sells "Soundown" which requires spray glue to install. West Marine's product is a similar make-up but it is peel and stick. Both come in a variety of thicknesses. Soundown comes in kits so sizing/measuring your space requirement is important. You may need 1-1/2 kits. Or a couple different thicknesses depending whether you are covering engine room doors , etc. I believe you can buy the West Marine product in individual squares(?). Both work.
Defender sells "Soundown" which requires spray glue to install. West Marine's product is a similar make-up but it is peel and stick. Both come in a variety of thicknesses. Soundown comes in kits so sizing/measuring your space requirement is important. You may need 1-1/2 kits. Or a couple different thicknesses depending whether you are covering engine room doors , etc. I believe you can buy the West Marine product in individual squares(?). Both work.
#9
Main Message Board / Re: engine room sound insulati...
Last post by Ron Hill - Today at 07:47:01 AMPete : Look at Defender I was very pleased with their engine insulation!! 
A thought
A thought
#10
Main Message Board / engine room sound insulation
Last post by Pete G - Today at 07:10:22 AMAny recommendations on replacement foam? As part of my engine room refresh, I removed the originals - the PO ran the engine without a dipstick for a while. :-\
I see some spendy foam panels at West Marine, wondering if there's a Home Depot option.
https://www.westmarine.com/west-marine-acoustical-foam-P006_180_006_004.html?queryID=ed9cfc140bde9815245ec09b9d2b1136&objectID=216866&indexName=production_na01_westmarine_demandware_net__WestMarine__products__en_US
I see some spendy foam panels at West Marine, wondering if there's a Home Depot option.
https://www.westmarine.com/west-marine-acoustical-foam-P006_180_006_004.html?queryID=ed9cfc140bde9815245ec09b9d2b1136&objectID=216866&indexName=production_na01_westmarine_demandware_net__WestMarine__products__en_US