Recent posts
#1
Main Message Board / Re: New Video from Mainsail
Last post by MarcZ - Today at 12:45:41 PMUpdated, I guess it was reposted and link changed
Video is about LiFePo4 batteries
Video is about LiFePo4 batteries
#2
Main Message Board / Re: New Video from Mainsail
Last post by Noah - Today at 10:30:12 AMMark- this is a "bad link" (not working) please fix or remove. Also what is the subject of the video?
#3
Main Message Board / New Video from Mainsail
Last post by MarcZ - Today at 09:56:42 AM #4
Main Message Board / Re: replacing transducers and ...
Last post by Pete G - Today at 06:59:29 AMI had both a 2" and a 1 7/8" hole saw, but the smaller one isn't small enough to fit inside the larger. If the hole was 1 3/4", I think this would have worked. However, the "drops" from the 2" hole saw are exactly 1 7/8" in diameter. I cut a couple of donuts from a 2/4 and screwed them onto the mandrel. This worked perfectly, drilling in reverse.
#5
Main Message Board / Re: Oil/temp warning
Last post by KWKloeber - Yesterday at 07:23:24 PMQuote from: dclintonbaker on Yesterday at 05:00:12 PMTo check the switch, remove the 2 wires to the switch, short the female terminals together (for a good connection I suggest a jumper wire w/ 2 male quick connect terminals, rather than taping terminals together.) If your alarm problems go away, the switch has@dfiledFAILED and replace it -- if not we'll dig deeper.
Should I do this?
That's not the OEM Wb wiring that I have seen when I replaced a "B" harness. So from afar it might be difficult to tell what you have there or if the PO modified it.
Wb typically installs harnesses before painting the engine so all the wiring is Ice Blue color. Even if not, the OEM wiring had one terminal crimped with two wires (one being red/white stripe) and the other terminal had one wire. And those are not Wb terminals or Wb crimps.
Quote from: KWKloeber on May 03, 2024, 01:05:52 PMI went thru the wiring on the forum and checking the voltages at different points with another owner. If you can't locate that old post with a search I may be able to find it.Did you look for that?
Quote from: KWKloeber on May 03, 2024, 01:05:52 PMis it the oil switch or the temp switch that is alarming?I missed it if you previously answered this.
did he {mechanc] use the wiring schematic to understand why it is alarming?
Disconnect the two wires.
See what the alarm does.
Verify whether the oil switch is open or closed (w/ engine off and running) using your ohm or continuity setting on your multimeter.
Report back!
-Ken
#6
Main Message Board / Re: Oil/temp warning
Last post by dclintonbaker - Yesterday at 05:15:20 PMKen's quote from 13 Nov 2016 at 02:51 :
To check the switch, remove the 2 wires to the switch, short the female terminals together (for a good connection I suggest a jumper wire w/ 2 male quick connect terminals, rather than taping terminals together.) If your alarm problems go away, the switch has filed and replace it -- if not we'll dig deeper.
Should I do this?
To check the switch, remove the 2 wires to the switch, short the female terminals together (for a good connection I suggest a jumper wire w/ 2 male quick connect terminals, rather than taping terminals together.) If your alarm problems go away, the switch has filed and replace it -- if not we'll dig deeper.
Should I do this?
#7
Main Message Board / Re: Oil/temp warning
Last post by dclintonbaker - Yesterday at 05:00:12 PMInteresting post from Breakin Away about importance of installing the correct switch.
Here's another attempt at a picture of the oil pressure switch..for what it's worth.
Here's another attempt at a picture of the oil pressure switch..for what it's worth.
#8
Main Message Board / Re: What's under the stern lad...
Last post by Dave Spencer - Yesterday at 03:55:08 PMHi Mark,
I don't have a Mk II but I've attached a picture of the mounting bolts from my Mk1.5. There is definitely a tapped backing plate embedded in the fibreglass. Your boat may be different but a backing plate makes sense from a manufacturing point of view since installing the swim ladder brackets if it was secured with nuts would definitely be a two person job.
The attached picture was taken when I had the rear water tank removed and was renewing the bilge pump hose that discharges at the centreline under the swim ladder on my Mk 1.5.
Good luck with whatever you're doing.
I don't have a Mk II but I've attached a picture of the mounting bolts from my Mk1.5. There is definitely a tapped backing plate embedded in the fibreglass. Your boat may be different but a backing plate makes sense from a manufacturing point of view since installing the swim ladder brackets if it was secured with nuts would definitely be a two person job.
The attached picture was taken when I had the rear water tank removed and was renewing the bilge pump hose that discharges at the centreline under the swim ladder on my Mk 1.5.
Good luck with whatever you're doing.
#9
Main Message Board / What's under the stern ladder ...
Last post by MarknCat - Yesterday at 01:15:12 PMHi everyone, anyone pull their ladder mounts off? Is there a backing plate molded in with threads or is there nuts under there?
Thanks
Mark
Thanks
Mark
#10
Main Message Board / Re: Oil/temp warning
Last post by Ron Hill - May 08, 2024, 02:14:00 PMBreaking : What I did with my new engine (wiring for the M25xpB engine came with has the same screwed up wiring harness as the M35BC engine -- was to remove that factory wiring harness!!
What Westerbeke was trying to do is - when the oil pressure drops the electric fuel pump stops and the engine then shuts down!! The only problem is that with the C34, the fuel tank is higher than the engine so when the electric fuel pump stops the fuel will continue to syphon and the engine will still continue to run!!
So what I did was to wire the glow plugs directly into the momentary (spring loaded) position on the key switch. Then I wired the electric fuel pump into the ON terminal of the key switch. The oil alarm switch is a single terminal and wired into a buzzer in the engine instrument panel. No pressure the alarm comes ON (very loud) and when the oil pressure come back up it is OFF (silent). The Westerbeke wiring harness went into the junk pile!!
Simple as that !!
A few thoughts
What Westerbeke was trying to do is - when the oil pressure drops the electric fuel pump stops and the engine then shuts down!! The only problem is that with the C34, the fuel tank is higher than the engine so when the electric fuel pump stops the fuel will continue to syphon and the engine will still continue to run!!
So what I did was to wire the glow plugs directly into the momentary (spring loaded) position on the key switch. Then I wired the electric fuel pump into the ON terminal of the key switch. The oil alarm switch is a single terminal and wired into a buzzer in the engine instrument panel. No pressure the alarm comes ON (very loud) and when the oil pressure come back up it is OFF (silent). The Westerbeke wiring harness went into the junk pile!!
Simple as that !!
A few thoughts