Messages

Run 12v directly to the compressor nd see if it runs

My boat has "always" had 1/4 wide strip of sticky-back foam tape on the doghouse where it mates to bulkhead. Why? Who knows? But I never bothered to remove it.  And, I have unscrewed it more times than I would like to count! Each time removing it and that bulkhead was going to be my "last time"!

Love the term "doghouse".
No idea it was a cover over the steering stuff.
I always thought it was a locker that sat on the stern deck.

Hi Paul,   Do you fly your asymmetric with a pole?

Interesting packaging/marketing slogan on box: "Japanese Design & Technology" 

Don't look now but the Japanese ate our lunch decades ago.  Every industry or technology they care to be involved in they excel.   Their stuff is good and expensive.   
They got out of the tin trinkets business along time ago.

I didn't know guido but I talked to him on the phone a few times.   Very nice guy.

Our marina resumed launching boats Saturday.  Of course everything is backed up but there's lots of people working on their boats and in good spirits. 

Pretty boat.   

I would like to read more about how antifreeze additives inhibit cavitation in combustion cylinders.  Could you direct me to your source?  Or maybe I misunderstood your post.

It's not in the cylinders, but outside the liners. Caused by ultrasonic waves from the high pressure "explosions" of diesel combustion. This article describes the issue:
https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/coolants-that-fight-corrosion

Regarding my prior inquiry about finding an economical acid cleaner for flushing my raw water and freshwater (coolant) systems, I am concerned about using a raw, uninhibited acid in my engine (acetic, oxalic, muriatic, citric, etc.). But there are dozens of pre-formulated products sold for automotive applications that need to strike the same balance of effectiveness against minerals vs. inhibition against attacking the metal components. Is there any reason not to flush with a Prestone (or similar) radiator cleaner instead of Rydlyme?

Thank you for that.  I also found some other articles.  "Down the rabbit hole"

Guys : I'm absolutely baffled by a quest for the "BEST Anti freeze"?? 
I always thought that there were really only a couple of characteristics that you needed to for in anti freeze - at what low temperature does the mixture start to congeal, water-pump lubrication, rust inhibitor and some longevity (lasts more than a year before breaking down).  Most major brands profess they have these characteristics??!!

Also I'm interested in "who" it is that did all of the testing to decide "which" is the best!! Their criteria and test parameters??
Also It would seem to me that the "water (cooling) jacket" in any engine (spark or compression) is about the same. Temperature of approx 160 degrees also should be the same in our small diesel engines or small gasoline engines. Temp. Might be much higher in large truck engines?!? Probably be a difference depending on the metal that the engine block is cast out of.

A few thoughts

I'm coming back to this after a few months as I am working on spring commissioning.

Practical Sailor has done quite a bit of testing on diesel antifreeze over the years.

I haven't re-read everything from a few months ago, but IIRC the "best" antifreeze for diesel engines includes cavitation inhibitors that reduce cavitation pitting of the cylinder shells. This is not necessary in gasoline engines due to lower compression ratios, but on diesels the higher compression/vibrations can make that a factor. Since I'm due for a full antifreeze replacement, I'm going with Zerex G-05 HOAT, which tested well, is reasonably priced, and readily available.

I'd still like to do a mild acid wash of the freshwater cooling system (run it for 15 min or so, then rinse with water and fill with new antifreeze), and would like any advice on what I could use. Rydlyme is not readily available around here. I could try Barnacle Buster. What about cleaning vinegar? oxalic acid? diluted CLR?

I'd also like to do an acid clean of the raw water side of my HX. I'm thinking of removing my pencil anode and replacing it with a hose barb (5/16" UNC, if I can find it?). Then I could either pump in/out some acid (displaced air would vent out the exhaust hose) using a portable impeller, or even just gravity feed the acid through a raised funnel/tube connected to the hose barb. The latter method has the advantage of giving me a lot of control over the exact amount needed, since I just put the funnel about an inch above the HX to fill the HX without overfilling into the other components. Once again, I'd appreciate advice of what, other than Rydlyme, I could use for this (cleaning vinegar/oxalic acid/CLR)

I would like to read more about how antifreeze additives inhibit cavitation in combustion cylinders.  Could you direct me to your source?  Or maybe I misunderstood your post.

Thanks for sharing with us.

Maybe the PO had a plan for that chunk of lead and maybe it involved his wife?  (Or the other way around).


Why waste an anchor.

Why is it such a daunting job to align the shaft and engine and check it annually.

Could it be from water expanding the core?  (I have no idea if this area is cored and I don't see any obvious signs there's leaks)

Here's how we store the dink. We use a 4:1 handy billy to hoist it for raising / lowering which makes it a whole lot easier than hauling directly on a halyard.

That's a teeny-weeny dink.  How long is that

I've never heard of them referred to as "crib".  That's interesting.  Do you come from a farming background.