All of the sanitation hoses on our newly purchased '86 appear to be original and seem to stink pretty badly. Looks like a reasonably gross job. Curious from those who have done it - How many hours might this take? Seems like access, hygiene, and difficult to manhandle hosing could make a pretty simple remove and replace job take a while. Love to hear thoughts from anyone who has done it.
Thanks so much,
Alex
Alex,
Replaced them on my MKll a few seasons ago. I pumped vinegar from the bowl, let sit, and flushed, flushed and flushed at the pump out. Wasn't that bad of a job. Used a coupling from old hose to new hose to feed thru. As I remember the most difficult part was getting the new hose over the hose barbs, tried putting the end in hot water but ended up using a heat gun. Took 2 or 3 hours, did the pump out the day before.
It helps to add boat information to your signature. See what others have done. It helps getting the best answer. I'm sure that changing hoses on a MKl is a bit different.
Hope your project is clean and smooth.
Jim
Toughest part of the job on the MKI, is the tight clearance to change the hose attached to the macerator pump. I also cast a vote for using a heat gun on all hose barb connections.
So 2-3 hours including - Vent hose from tank, waste outlet to deck, waste outlet to macerator, macerator to through hull, head to tank? Were you able to do all of those in that time? Do we think the MK1 would be similar?
I've attached the head plumbing diagram for handy reference.
Thanks,
Alex
Depends how speedy you are, how messy the plumbing is and if you have to make runs to the store. I would figure this to be your project for that day. Might as well swap out your hose clamps for the "good ones" at the same time.
Hopefully your macerator still works as the hardest hose may be the most obvious, the hose from the tank to the macerator. As has been said before, you'll want to thoroughly flush the whole system, for me that was no less than three times. If your macerator pump works I'd suggest running it after the last flush as that will help clear the line of stuff you really...and I mean REALLY don't want to see. Pumping the holding tank out thru the deck fitting will not clear this particular hose.
Either way I would also suggest lining the area below the macerator hose with plastic and wear long gloves at a minimum. Our macerator was completely rotted and non functional when we bought the boat and one of the first chores was to replace all the sanitary hoses. We had to cut the line between the macerator and holding tank and it simply wasn't a pleasant experience.
This job will take a few hours and having done it I feel comfortable saying the whole thing can be done in a day....but don't hurry....this is one job were if you say "oooops"....you'll probably clear the boat out instantly and possibly everyone else within a 50 foot radius.
Alex,
I'm in the Great Lakes, Shamrock has always been there, macerator sits on a shelf in my basement. So my 2 to 3 hours may be a little short. I agree, plan on an all day job. Would not want to break down this job to multiple days.
Jim
A few comments on installation which I did this spring;
1. After leaving the hoses in the sun to soften, I swabbed the inside of the hoses with Lanocote to help slip them over the fittings.
2. Measure the length of the fittings and mark that off on the hose. It will insure you set the hose clamps correctly.
3. Use the good clamps as already suggested
4. Install the lowest hoses first and work up so that you have sufficient room to install and clamp the hoses.
5. Disconnect the mascerator and detach it from the sidewall. It's easier to attach the new hose, get the right angle and get full slip on to the fittings.
6. It's easier to fish the toilet hose though from the head to the tank, rather than the reverse, as you can reach under floor liner to grab it and pull thru the final few feet.
7. Don't forget to replace the vent hose too
8. Use plumbers putty to seal the screw on fittings on the mascerator and vent tank top.
I was lucky my PO replaced most of the sanitary hoses. I wasn't lucky that the macerator pump failed at the studs holding the pump/motor to the hose adaptor. Since you're going to be replacing all the hoses, now is a good time to look at the bolts/studs that are holding the pump/motor to the hose adaptor. Make sure they are SST and not brass or whatever yellow metal was used once upon a time because they will fail.
Since I had to drain and open up this system, I took this opportunity to relocate the macerator pump/motor higher so that if I needed to remove it for some reason, "effluent" loss would be minimal :shock:.
An additional comment/question to the topic of odor due to hoses.
When talking to a my neighbor at the dock regarding holding tank and related hoses, I was given the advise to add a second vent hose on the holding tank to reduce the holding tank odor.
Is there anyone who has done that on a 34 if so where have you placed the additional vent on the hull.
We currently have a functioning Stantion vent connected to the holding tank.
I am planning on exchanging the holding tank and hoses while on the hard so this post is very relevant.
Any input would be appreciated.
Bo Jeansson
#1024 MK1.25 1990 WK M35
Rock Hall, MD
Many folks have. Lots written on this website. Search and you shall find.
I've been using a holding tank treatment that Peggy Hull suggested for the last two seasons. Claims it liquifies and increases oxygen. So far has worked good and no odor, no smell at all. I still have the OEM holding tank vent. In the Great Lakes so always use holding tank. I buy it at Amazon. Used to use Odorlos may cost a little more.
Zaal NoFlex Digestor Boat and RV Sewage
Also at Amazon, Peggy Hull, "The Head Mistress" her excellent book on all boat things smelly.
The New Get Rid of Boat Odors: A Boat Owner's Guide to Marine Sanitation Systems and Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor Paperback
This is not intended to be an Amazon ad. Just where I got them.
Jim
Quote from: BJeansson on August 10, 2021, 06:21:28 PM
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Is there anyone who has done that on a 34 if so where have you placed the additional vent on the hull.
Of course, from the 101 Topics:
Second Holding Tank Vent
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6861.15.html
BIG vote for raritan saniflex. It is so much easier to work with than the white pvc stuff. It also has Peggy Hall's vote for odor permiation prevention. I used this stuff when I replaced my Jabsco head with a Raritan super flush household bowl. Check it out...
https://www.raritaneng.com/en_US/products/saniflex
Guys : A must "Have Tool" on board a C34 for changing /replacing ANY barb fitting hoses is a HEAT GUN !!!
A thought
Do it in the winter sub 32F!
The fittings on the tank are pipe on the hose end, at least for new fittings.
Also, if you go with Trident hose, which is very pricy, you can get the 1 1/2" hose in 12' lengths which is much cheaper per foot and should be all you need for a MK1
Regards,
Ed
Took me about 6 hours just a few years ago to just change out the hoses that go from the through hull up to the Y valve, the Y valve, and the hose from the Y valve to the toilet. Honestly, if the door to the underside of the sink was double in size, it would have been a piece of cake, but getting that Y valve off that aft wall under the sink is terrible. Once that was off, it was easy to get the hoses off. taped up the ends and took them in to West Marine to make sure I was getting the exact hose. The reverse process to reinstall.
Everything already covered except automotive tailpipe expander
It makes attaching the heat softened pipe to the barbs a lot easier
QuoteEverything already covered except automotive tailpipe expander
It makes attaching the heat softened pipe to the barbs a lot easier
I can see how that would help. Great idea. But I question weather the expanded hose would shrink back to original diameter.
Jim
I use an Uponor Pex expander gun to stretch my smaller hoses when attaching them. The only caution I'd provide is wire reinforced hoses. It seems the wire becomes a bit dislodged in the hose when stretching them. That said, I dont have any leaks where I've used the expander on a hose.