Messages

Took some friends out last night.  When I tried the handle, it pumped fine?  Been sitting all week. 

Jeff, don't think the intake is the issue. We usually dump a couple cups of fresh water in the head rather than seawater so the head valve is always set to dry when we are pumping.

Ron, would the joker valve turn itself inside out if it's getting old?  The head has been working fine the past 3 years we've owned her.  Not sure how old it is, came with the boat.

Have a Raritan PH or it may be a PHII.  I have to look more closely next time I'm down.  Mostly use the boat on the weekend.   For the last half of the summer, when we start pumping the head handle, it almost springs back up in your hand.  You can feel resistance as you are trying to pump down.  I'd pump it 15 times or so and it would start working fine again.
Last weekend it was doing it again, after the 15 pumps it was still springing up and wasn't draining the bowl, there was minimal water in the bowl.  I filled the bowl about 3/4 the way with fresh water and it pumped fine.  Almost seemed like there was enough pressure with the water in the bowl to force open the check valve and let it pump normal.  Worked fine for the rest of the weekend.  Seems like when we leave it for the week, maybe the check valve is getting stuck and once it frees itself, it works fine for however long we're on the boat.

Does it sound like a need a re-build kit?

Is a separate battery required for the windlass.  I've been thinking of adding one but haven't looked into it too deeply.  And do you need to use all chain rode or can you have a combination chain/rope?

It would be nice not having to replace toenails once a season when the anchor locker drops on my feet while I'm hauling the anchor in.

I know it probably more than you are thinking about doing, but we built a swim platform for our '86.  My wife comments how much easier it is getting into the dinghy everytime we use it.

Sounds like you and I purchased the same boat. Mine was original owner, hull and engine sound.  Chainplate leaks, vented stanchion leaks.  Smelly bilge, cushions stuck to high heaven, floor was scratched and waterstained.

My vented stanchions leaked so bad I had to replace all the countertops due to water damage and rot.  Also the bottom half of the bulkhead separating the head and nav table. 

The deck around the vented stanchions were not too bad.  The port side had some rot that I scraped out and filled with epoxy but other than that, the deck was okay.  So maybe you'll get lucky and will have mostly pass-through water.  If that's the case, check your countertops.

Like someone mentioned above, if you remove the chainplates, you can cover the holes with butyl tape.  It will be easy to pull up in the spring.

I went with the Cetol.  The 2 part version, I think it was 6 coats of Cetol Natural Teak, then 6 coats of the Gloss.  Or whatever they recommended in the instructions. Looks great, still looks pretty new after 4 years and haven't done anything to it.  May put another coat on this season just to get the high gloss back, getting a little dull after 4 seasons.

I do the same with the covers.  Rails still look pretty new after 4 years.

I rub some beeswax on mine at the beginning of each season.  Lasts throughout the summer.

I'll try to take a better look next time I'm down at the boat.  Although I don't remember the manifold looking tilted or sagging when I'm looking at it.  I hope there nothing wrong with it, I've been using it as a step to get out of the cabin when I have stairs out of the way.

Do you have any pictures of the finished product?  Might be looking to do something similar in my cockpit.

Finally, it's off  .  Got a bunch of long sockets, 15/16, 1" 1/16" 1 1/8".  Cut them down so the socket part was whole but the rest of the socket was cut down so I could fit it under the engine manifold.  When trying to get the socket on the switch it would hit the engine manifold and not sit on the switch straight.  Tried all the sizes, the 1 1/16" fit but would slip a bit so figured the switch might be metric. 
Ended up finding a standard size 26mm socket, couldn't find a deep socket.  I was worried the front part of the switch would stick too far into the socket and prevent the ratchet handle from attaching so I cut down the 1" deep socket and welded it too the 26mm socket.  Tried it out on Sunday and worked like a charm.  I was still only able to turn the ratchet about 1/4 way before the socket would jam against the bottom of the engine manifold.  But turning it 1/4 turn, then removing and repositioning, I was able to get it off pretty quickly.

Replaced the switch with a Kubota 15841-39010 which seems to be the standard replacement switch.  This switch is 15/16".  Still had to use my deep 15/16" socket that I had to cut down to avoid the engine manifold  but it went in smooth.  I might have been able to get a short 15/16" socket with and extension on it to work but I didn't have on with me.
Big thanks to KWKloeber for all his help in my initial wiring confusion and then helping me trouble shoot the switch as the ultimate cause.

First picture is the old switch in the engine block.  Second picture is the old switch removed and the cut down/welded 26mm socket.  The 15/16" socket was cut down the same way.

My '86 icebox has 2 levels where the inside of the box steps in about 1/2" all the way around.  On the lower indent we installed a two piece plexiglass shelf which blanks off the bottom of the icebox.  Keeps everything up out of the bottom of the box.  If we need more room, we can slide one section of plexiglass on top of the other and store more items in the bottom.
On the 2nd level, about 7-8" down from the top, I made a 8" wide shelf that runs from the bow to stern end of the icebox.  We keep smaller items on the shelf.  Made it out of some perforated panel I had laying around. Still give plenty of access to the drinks which are located below.

Went back down tonight with a multitude of sockets, short and deep.  None of them fit.  Thought I was going to get lucky with the 1 1/16" deep socket but no go.  Both the short and long are hitting the bottom of the manifold so they won't on the switch straight.  Going to bring the sockets to work and try to grind one side flat so it will slide under the manifold and fit straight on the switch.  I think if I can get the short socket on fully, it will be past the manifold and I'll be able to get it to work.  If that doesn't work, I can't think of anything else to do.

Was at the boat today.  Bought a 15/16" socket to remove the old switch.  Checked the size on the new one first to make sure 15/16" was correct.  First tried to use the 7mm to remove the small screw.  Either it's not a hex head or it's stripped because the 7 didn't fit.  Tried a 6 & 5 and no luck.  By bending back and forth was able to snap the remaining wire which was rusted to the screw.  Went to put on the large socket.  Doesn't fit.  It's a long socket.  Can't tell if it's hitting the engine manifold and won't go on straight or it's too small.  Looking at the switch it's looks a bit different than the Kubota replacement I bought.  The section the socket fits on looks about the same but the small black section in front, where the screw goes in, looks longer than the kubota type.  As a whole it looks bigger than the replacement.  I don't think if it is 15/16" I'd be able to get a short socket on it.  I think the screw in section on the front is too long and wouldn't allow the short socket on enough. Any thoughts?  This thing is driving me nuts.

Sorry my confusion was going off my memory of the old thread.  So if your engine had that hose, did you have to tap/thread the engine block to add the oil switch to the block? 

I was looking at the manual, mainly on the picture of both sides of the engine where it has the arrows & labels of the various parts of the engine.  Didn't see the hose in the picture and there is no mention of the oil pressure switch either on the hose or on the block.  That was throwing me for a loop originally.