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I take it you wire the 6v in series? Also, could I replace one bank w/6v and leave the other 12v until I get the replacement 6v? Yes, price is an issue?

Yes, in series, and there's no problem combining a 12V bank composed of 12V batteries with another 12V bank composed of 6V batteries in serial.  Price may be an issue.  If you buy a Group 27 deep cycle flooded cell 80AH battery from WM, you'll pay $1.50/AH ($120 for the battery).  If you buy two Energizer 6V flooded cells from Sam's Club, you'll pay .65/AH ($145 for the pair).  You could definitely get a cheaper deep cycle battery than one from WM, but that was easy for me to look up. You could also get a much more expensive 6V battery, which could invert the value equation.  In fact, if you buy WM 6V batteries, you'd be paying $1.77/AH, so perhaps that's a fairer comparison.

What we do is use the cunningham as a preventer with a snap shackle on its connection at base of the mast to one of the shroud bases below the turnbuckle,  and move the cunningham tack hook to one of the mainsheet bails.  We then balance the rigid vang and the "new" preventer for proper boom position.

That is BRILLIANT!  Of course... you don't need the cunningham when you're running downwind; may as well put it to good use.  Yay, I cancel my pad eye project this year that I was going to install for the preventer.  Now what am I going to do with all that time saved?  Oh, yeah, maybe go for a sail. 

Speaking of -and of no relevance whatsoever to all you year-round sailors- my boat splashed last Thursday.  It was last out and now first in in the marina.  I bent on the genny, but there was not a breath of wind this weekend.  An inauspicious beginning to the new season. 

I know that the threads on 6v are plenty. What are the primary advantages to them vs 12v and I have 2 banks of series 27 12v, how many 6v would replace them?

The only way to answer that would be to know how many AH each of those banks offers.  Two golf-cart-sized 6V batteries typically deliver between 200 and 250AH at 12V.  The ones we're talking about deliver 220AH, but know that you always have to pair 6V batteries in order to gross them up to 12V.  The advantage is that they tend to be longer-lasting and more durable (but brand quality is a factor here) and usually offer more power per square inch of floor space due at least in part to the fact that they tend to be taller than their 12V brothers.  In the case of at least the Mk I, they provide a way to really maximize the amount AH in the starboard aft-most settee where most of us have most of our house power supply.  I have 440AH coming out of that space with four 6V batteries.  That would not be possible with Group 24/27/31 batteries, because the most you could fit in that space would be three, and those batteries tend not to deliver more that 120AH.  It did occur to me recently that four Optima 12V batteries might fit in there (haven't confirmed this), which would actually deliver 480AH in that space, albeit at a higher price/AH.

They are mysterious.  All I can tell you is that I bought four of them last year, and they've been fine so far, but a year's worth of light duty is hardly much of a test.  I'll let you know in five years or so if I'm still satisfied with them

All this talk of turning that the nav hanging closet into something more useful makes me wonder if there might not be a hybrid approach: two full-depth shelves with sliding baskets attached under the shelves, which would still leave room on top of the shelves and between them for non-basketed stuff.  That might be the approach I take.

Speaking on behalf of the C34 International Association, and most likely Norris as well, congrats on your savvy purchase and welcome to our brotherhood (and sisterhood).  Dave, we're all so glad that you're going to restore Mariposa, cum Prize Fighter, to her former beauty.  I hope you know we all are here to help.  Best of luck to you.  This board is a wonderful place to ask questions and seek advice.  As well, there are many wonderful articles about C34 systems and upgrades on the knowledgewiki (www.c34.org/wiki).  And, of course, not that you won't have quite enough to invest in, but you can support all of the support you'll get from us by joining the C34IA by following the link at the top of this page.

Again, congratulations and best of luck.  We all can't wait to hear of your progress, and hope we can help you.

Dave, everything you write makes sense.  That said, last year, I swapped out my 18 year old OEM masthead sheaves for new ball-bearing sheaves, and can't believe the difference.  They've only been in service for a year, but no problems or noticeable wear so far.  My halyard is run back to the cockpit, so I don't jump the mast to raise main, and the lateral effort I give is a little less efficient than a vertical one.  I can raise my main 90% of the way (maybe 98%, but I give up before that) without a ton of effort now.  I could do nearly the same before the sheave change, but it was much more of a work out.  My 14 year old (and skinny) nephew can raise her about 60% before giving up, and before the sheave change (albeit also a year younger) couldn't get the main up much beyond 40%.  So, the change makes a big difference.  Can't say how good it would have been if I had taken the lower-tech route that Steve is considering.  Obviously, this is only a nice-to-have, not a priority.  In light of how infrequently your mast might be down and how long this upgrade will last, it seemed a good investment at the time. 

I like this idea of making the seats.  How about a wiki with some photos and maybe a plan with a seat template?  It would be an easy project in the winter workshop.

I love the idea of capturing this project as a wiki article.  I'd be happy to set up the page for  and help with formatting and uploading of pictures (not that you necessarily need my help, but just PM me if you do). 

No, no, no.  It's all different nowadays.  You put your highest-interest, biggest balance credit card under the mast, so you can't spend anymore. 

No rum or bourbon that I can see in it.  What kind of sailor's briefcase is that?  Seems like a lousy job to me 

So call me cheap or conservative, but i just pressed in new bushings in the bad ones and now they are like new. 

Cheap!   

When the stick goes back in, I will not have any clevis pins at the base of the aft lowers.  Instead, half inch shackles.    They make great secure attachment points for a preventer.... If I like it I may put them forward as well and use them for dingy tie downs.

Brilliant!   

In some ways, I'm sorry for you Norris.  It must be hard to see your baby go, but I hope that the insurance company made you whole, and I also hope that the new owner will do the honorable thing and make your formerly wonderful boat wonderful again.  BTW, if the new owner happens to get in touch with you, don't forget to tell him/her about our Association, and that we ready to help (in the form of advice). 

What are your plans now?  Another boat?  Another C34?  Hope you'll stay part of the "family," even if you end up with another woman ;)

When I purchase a Zn I make sure it's one with a "BB" on the inside. 

Ron, what does "BB" indicate?

I discussed this yesterday with Ed by phone. 

Wow, Stu, you're doing member care over the phone now???  We really need to increase membership dues and chip in for your phone bill   

The easy answer is that something has changed in the environment.  I'm assuming that you're in a marina.  Either a power line problem has been fixed or a problematic neighbor has left or fixed his problem.  Given the severity of the problem that you "had" (if the past tense is truly applicable), you may still want to install a galvanic isolator.  The other answer is a question: are you sure that the zinc you installed on the shaft is making good contact with the shaft (i.e., what the shaft thoroughly cleaned and roughed up where the shaft was placed)?  If not, the zinc may simply not be able to perform its role, and, sorry to say, you may still have a problem that's just not evidenced by zinc dissolution.  BTW, in the past, had the zinc required replacement every two months?