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I've completed some major upgrades, and am now in phase 2 of repairs and upgrades on my new to me 1987 C34. I've checked and found that I have the brass idler pulley pins still in the steering system. Today I called Edson about ordering the SST idler pulley pins, and he mentioned that it is recommended to replace the chain and cable if it is more than 10 years old. I have no idea how old the current set up is, but would not be surprised if it is the original. In the Tech Wiki I saw the Edson Maintenance pdf, but haven't found any Message Board threads on replacing the chain, cable, and eyebolt adjusters for the cable. Is this something you all have done as a Maintenance item, or is Edson upselling me? Thanks for the help.

Where did you install the carbon monoxide and propane alarm on your C34?

Jon W.

Hi Rick, I saw your response on the "wood under mast step" thread. Thanks and I'll keep looking for the pictures.

To give an update on my concerns whether there was a structural concern; today I got an answer from Warren Pandy at Catalina's Largo office.

Short version the answer is no structural concern by removing the wood core and not replacing the same built up thickness.

Longer version -
Per Warren, if the procedure for removal and repair of the bilge floor as shown in the drawing is followed there are no structural concerns. The plywood core fiberglass construction in addition to the approximate 1" hull thickness was a method originally used to increase stiffness in the bilge floor area. Although it added a measure of increased stiffness, around 1989 (in another thread hull #700 and newer was identified) the plywood core fiberglass construction method for the bilge floor was discontinued.

A couple of reasons for this:
1) determined it wasn't really needed.
2) water getting into the bilge is a reality, and customer feedback about wood damage and the risk of loose keel bolts caused them to revisit the design.

As a result, Catalina Yachts went to and continues to build with an all fiberglass construction method similar to that described in the repair procedure in addition to the approximate 1" hull thickness. No wood.

In my case, it turns out the current (now previous) owner had the boat hauled and redone in a local boat yard per the procedure outlined in the drawing. He also had the keel dropped, rebedded, and re-glassed. Looks like I need to start paying membership dues.

Thanks again to all.
Jon W.

I found phone numbers for Woodland Hills, CA and Largo, Fl at the bottom of the Catalina Yachts website. I'll call them tomorrow, hopefully they will be able to put me in contact with the right people. I also sent an E-mail to the customer support link. Will let everyone know what happens. Thanks again for all the outstanding help to a newcomer.  Jon W.

Where can I find the phone number? The Catalina Yachts website only has an E-mail contact.  Jon W.

Hi Rick,
   Do you still have the pictures of re-glassing the mast step from the 2012 post? I tried the link but it doesn't work. Thanks.
Jon W.

Hi Stu. I had found the thread from Rick Allen, and read most of what was there and the connecting links. However the picture he referred to didn't display so wasn't sure if he was only talking about the mast step, which was most of the text, or also the bilge floor. The drawing from your link did display and it is exactly what I was asking about, thanks very much.

I would like your and others opinions on whether I'm overthinking or not -

My concern was whether the integrity of the keel attachment was dependent on the wood being present for the additional thickness, ie acting as a doubler to increase the lateral stiffness to deal with ocean forces. From the dwg you pointed me to, it appears that the fix is to remove the wood and reglass with only 3 layers, a 6 " lip around the bilge, and reseal with gel coat. I don't see the requirement/recommendation to glass up to the original thickness of wood plus glass. This would lead me to believe the additional thickness from the wood plus glass is not necessary. Is that what you understand also?

If it isn't, I wonder why they would go to the trouble to put it in there?

It looks to me like the current owner made the repair per the drawing. Hopefully I'm in the clear, but guess I'll have to cut a deep socket in half to make it longer like was suggested here.

Jon W.

Went on a successful sea trial with the owner of hull #493, the boat I almost own. The current owner said when he purchased the boat there was wood encased in fiberglass between the keel bolt washers and the bilge bottom. (Sounded like it was a spacer). The wood was damaged from water so he removed all of it, and re-torqued the keel bolts/washers/nuts so they are clamping down directly to the bottom of the bilge. No spacer. Is there supposed to be a spacer/ something between the keel bolt washer and bilge bottom? I didn't find anything discussing this particular situation. Thanks for the help. Jon W.

Thought I'd give you all an update since you've been so helpful. After 12+ months of reading articles, spec sheets, forums, sailing video blogs, and looking at pictures of different types and brands of boats I've been able to narrow down the possible boat options. The past few weeks have been spent looking closely at boats from the bilge to the bulkhead tabs and hull to deck joints. The result of all this is that I put in an offer for a 1987 C34. We've settled on a price and I have the sea trial scheduled for this coming Friday. If all goes well there, the surveys are next, and if all goes well there I will take ownership. The alternator bracket and traveler through bolts have been done, but not sure about the engine harness. I didn't want to open the control panel to see how many terminals, but will be asking Friday. I read the article, but anybody hear of problems damaging the hull by converting from Marelon thru hulls and seacocks to bronze? Thanks for the help, and I'm looking forward to joining as a member in the near future.

Jon W.

My apologies for taking so long to respond to your feedback. I've been reading lots of different subjects on this site, but truth is it took a while for me to find the reply button at the bottom of this thread. Hopefully I'm doing this right.

Thanks everybody for the great feedback. I't seems each question I have had, there is not one, but a couple of answers either by yourselves, in the Tech Notes, the Tech Wiki, other links, or the links you sent. Concise, informative, I'm truly impressed.

I realize there is a difference between a Catalina and a Baba for example, but I got a kick out of the 1,500 nm trip story and to hear the failures he had. They really weren't much different than I've read from people on "true bluewater cruisers" like a Baba. Capability going up and down the west coast of California to Mexico was another question I had, and sure enough got an answer to that. Maybe the comments about the boat not being durable in the Cruisers forums, are exagerated?

I appreciate the offers from those that offered tours of your boats and to see the windlass installation. I may be taking you up on that offer. Well Saturday I'll be looking at a few more boats, and hopefully getting closer to the right one. Thanks again.

Hello, My name is Jon and I have been looking for a boat in the 34 foot size range for several months. As I looked at various yacht for sale websites, I kept reading about the Catalina 34, the great manufacturer support, and the great owners forum. So last weekend I went to look at a couple of Catalina 34's. It didn't take long to see why people like these boats. For a C34, I'm looking in the 1987-1990 range due to price. I would appreciate some tips on what to look out for.
Two of many questions I have are -
      I've heard the keel stepped mast has leak problems through the mast. Is that an issue, or just a lone comment from someone?
      One boat I looked at didn't have a windlass. Is adding an electric windlass with it's own battery simple or difficult?

Thanks and looking forward to hearing your thoughts on buying a pre-owned C34.

Jon W.