Recent posts

#1
Main Message Board / Re: Oil/temp warning
Last post by KWKloeber - Today at 01:05:52 PM
QuoteThe mechanic replaced the buzzer and the oil pressure switch on the engine but the problem persists.
WOW.  Didn't solve the problem, huh?  Imagine that, Whack-a-Mole, willy-nilly, replacing parts instead of the mechanic troubleshooting the cause did nothing to resolve it. 
I trust that he isn't charging you for the parts and his ineptness as a mechanic?  If he is you got hosed.

Troubleshoot, troubleshoot, troubleshoot, THEN replace parts willy-nilly.  I'd love to start a forum JUSt addressing that, I will be repeating that 'ad infinitum"

FIRST, is it the oil switch or the temp switch that is alarming? (The first step he should have taken to troubleshoot it.) 
Rhetorical, but did he use the wiring schematic to understand why it is alarming?

Quotethe single wire from the oil sensor switch back to the panel would solve the problem or whether the whole harness needs to be removed and rebuilt.
B engines have no "single wire" from the oil pressure switch that drives the alarmm unless the wiring is NOT Westerbeke OEM.  The Wb scheme is a multi-conductor mess -- the alarm is always hot and shuts down when a "back voltage" is applied to the ground side of the alarm, driven by the fuel pump circuit. 
Please post a pic of your oil switch so we can take a look and provide a path forward.

I went thru the wiring on the forum and checking the voltages at different points with another owner.  If you can't locate that old post with a search I may be able to find it.

-ken
#2
Main Message Board / Re: Oil/temp warning
Last post by KWKloeber - Today at 11:41:03 AM
@d

Is it the OEM Westerbele harness?  i.e., does she have the stupid, convoluted, back-asswards Westerbeke wiring scheme on the B engines, or, like Ron's XPB, does she have the intelligent wiring scheme that Universal Oshkosh put on the pre-B engines?

-ken
#3
Main Message Board / Oil/temp warning
Last post by dclintonbaker - Today at 07:39:08 AM
I realized this topic has been posted previously, but I was looking for some guidance of how to move forward.

I have a 2004 C34 MK II with a universal M 35 BC engine.

Recently I had to replace the gearbox because of a worn drive plate. To do that the engine had to be taken off the mounts (which were replaced) and moved forward into the cabin. The wiring harness was reconnected and since then there has been a warning from the oil/temp buzzer. The mechanic replaced the buzzer and the oil pressure switch on the engine but the problem persists.  I'm suspecting that there is a short in the wiring harness. Moving forward I wonder if replacing the single wire from the oil sensor switch back to the panel would solve the problem or whether the whole harness needs to be removed and rebuilt. Any comments would be appreciated. 
#4
Main Message Board / Re: New fuel tank
Last post by LogoFreak - Today at 05:50:16 AM
Yes Ron, will be getting a water maker as well before heading south.
#5
Main Message Board / Re: New fuel tank
Last post by Ron Hill - Yesterday at 02:52:21 PM
Antoni : If Mexico is anything like the Bahamas - good RO water was 3/4 times the price of diesel!!

A thought
#6
Main Message Board / Re: New Stainless Steel Deck F...
Last post by Ron Hill - Yesterday at 02:35:50 PM
Guys : The only cap that needs to be "winch handle tight" is the fuel cap !! I just tighten the wtar and waste caps finger tight!!  I replaced the fuel with a SS cap & fitting!!

A thought
#7
Main Message Board / Re: Opening the boom
Last post by Pete G - Yesterday at 10:45:00 AM
Thanks, Ron.  It's easy to go overboard.  Pun intended.  I'm replacing the line with the upgrade from Catalina Direct.

Pete
#8
Main Message Board / Re: Teak trim
Last post by KWKloeber - Yesterday at 08:18:07 AM
Quote from: Roland Gendreau on May 01, 2024, 05:47:52 PMPaulus,
Where did you buy the teak for the trim pieces? Could you get the same thickness?
how did you fashion the convex exdges, if not with a router?
I need to replace both of my trim pieces due to cracks.

Roland

ROLAND

https://c34.org/bbs/index.php?action=search2;params=eJwtzksOgzAMBNC7dNONu0ggVD1DD4GCMxK0gSCHjyrl8DWIjTV-si37sPmJEcq9mHIra4bkGazte__GhA6i3Mk5YKiqqDJkG6o1ODI1uZrsk0xDRuuLXEPWknO6lPu0t5zGOWLBdT-v3Qe8tGmKP6VDkiyaBBHnJxe1YRDlgMyHwAv32vP8GL0ME_4k3EAB

#9
Main Message Board / Re: New Stainless Steel Deck F...
Last post by KWKloeber - Yesterday at 07:59:47 AM
I color coded my black, vintage '84, plastic caps using rattle can paint for plastic.

No UV problem.
CD won't provide that tip!
#10
Main Message Board / Re: M25XP Flywheel to cranksha...
Last post by KWKloeber - Yesterday at 07:53:00 AM
Paul

https://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals#Universal_M-25.2C_M-25XP.2C_and_A-series_engines_.28M-25XPA.2FXPA.28C.29.3B_M-35A.2F35A.28C.29.29

The Service Manual, Workshop Manual, and Service Manual describes it and the last two have pictures of the butt end of the crankshaft/flywheel.

Then return to the parts manual and see p/n 299506, do a facepalm, and say Ohhhhh!! aloud.