Messages

[Troubleshoot, troubleshoot, troubleshoot]

The mechanic replaced the buzzer and the oil pressure switch on the engine but the problem persists.

WOW.  Didn't solve the problem, huh?  Imagine that, Whack-a-Mole, willy-nilly, replacing parts instead of the mechanic troubleshooting the cause did nothing to resolve it. 
I trust that he isn't charging you for the parts and his ineptness as a mechanic?  If he is you got hosed.

Troubleshoot, troubleshoot, troubleshoot, THEN replace parts willy-nilly.  I'd love to start a forum JUSt addressing that, I will be repeating that 'ad infinitum"

FIRST, is it the oil switch or the temp switch that is alarming? (The first step he should have taken to troubleshoot it.) 
Rhetorical, but did he use the wiring schematic to understand why it is alarming?

the single wire from the oil sensor switch back to the panel would solve the problem or whether the whole harness needs to be removed and rebuilt.

B engines have no "single wire" from the oil pressure switch that drives the alarmm unless the wiring is NOT Westerbeke OEM.  The Wb scheme is a multi-conductor mess -- the alarm is always hot and shuts down when a "back voltage" is applied to the ground side of the alarm, driven by the fuel pump circuit. 
Please post a pic of your oil switch so we can take a look and provide a path forward.

I went thru the wiring on the forum and checking the voltages at different points with another owner.  If you can't locate that old post with a search I may be able to find it.

-ken

@d

Is it the OEM Westerbele harness?  i.e., does she have the stupid, convoluted, back-asswards Westerbeke wiring scheme on the B engines, or, like Ron's XPB, does she have the intelligent wiring scheme that Universal Oshkosh put on the pre-B engines?

-ken

Paulus,
Where did you buy the teak for the trim pieces? Could you get the same thickness?
how did you fashion the convex exdges, if not with a router?
I need to replace both of my trim pieces due to cracks.

Roland

ROLAND

https://c34.org/bbs/index.php?action=search2;params=eJwtzksOgzAMBNC7dNONu0ggVD1DD4GCMxK0gSCHjyrl8DWIjTV-si37sPmJEcq9mHIra4bkGazte__GhA6i3Mk5YKiqqDJkG6o1ODI1uZrsk0xDRuuLXEPWknO6lPu0t5zGOWLBdT-v3Qe8tGmKP6VDkiyaBBHnJxe1YRDlgMyHwAv32vP8GL0ME_4k3EAB

I color coded my black, vintage '84, plastic caps using rattle can paint for plastic.

No UV problem.
CD won't provide that tip!

Paul

https://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals#Universal_M-25.2C_M-25XP.2C_and_A-series_engines_.28M-25XPA.2FXPA.28C.29.3B_M-35A.2F35A.28C.29.29

The Service Manual, Workshop Manual, and Service Manual describes it and the last two have pictures of the butt end of the crankshaft/flywheel.

Then return to the parts manual and see p/n 299506, do a facepalm, and say Ohhhhh!! aloud.

Correct.

Mann, it's so nice to see "freshwater" steering!

How would you test for pressure?

Borrow a radiator pressure tester from Autozone.  Remove the exhaust manifold csp, sttach it, pump up the pressure, watch the gauge to see if pressure holds.

Jim

I installed a 4" day/night MANY years back. At that time they were rectangular plastic with an option for a stainless cover over it.
It worked well but lasted bout 7-8 yrs and died.

I pried off the solar cover and the C cell NiCad batteries were toast, and I pushed it back in place and ordered replacements.
Before I got a roundtuit I trucked her to NC and when she arrived the solar panel had been sucked off!!  It's been a non-powered vent for 18 yrs.

Awwww shucks Alex.
I didn't have anything else to do at 3am anyway.

I tend to upload manuals only if we 30-ers use them.

Have a great weekend.

Eric

That all makes "a couple long tons" of sense.  That's why Mars is a primo company.

Epoxy would with some protection against minor (sand) groundings (not that any Catalina sailor would ever "run across" that situation!)


Still... gel coating?  I don't get it.

Ken
Thx

Pete

This is a low load application so either one will work.

I tend to use Wichard because of the nicer high polish finish and I've never had an issue with the action, always smooth and never hard to release (but that's for high loads.) I used one for my home designed vang/preventer/lifesling hoister.

My backstay adjuster is probably a bit different than yours and I used a Wichard hook (below, only because I had a stash left over.)

The cheaper one will work if you don't care about the finish.

If your existing snap fitz ok, get that size or go smaller if it will fit. Again it's such a low loading, go for looks rather than heft.

[non-B]

Hey Alex

Apologies for that confusion.

What messed me up is that Universal lists different GPs for the M-25/XP vs the M-35/35A.

I always understood that the plugs were "universal" (between the older Universals.) 
And they are indeed universal.
 
I have no clue why Universal has two numbers, except it may be a legacy from (if) Kubota changed part numbers between the M-25 and M-35 years (or so that Universal can charge M-35/35A owners $10 more.)

I uploaded the Kubota V1200 parts manual (M-35/35A) to the Wiki for your reading pleasure.

The GPs for the M-35/35A/35A(C); M-25/XP/XPA/XPA(C); M-40 & etc. non-B engines are:
Kubota 15951-65512 or NGK 2031 Y-103V

Alex

I have totally mucked up this.

I had posted the manual for the M35B and said it was for the M35.  I lost my mind -- I took down that link pending me locating the correct manual for the Kubota V1200 block (M35/35A cousin).

Stand done until I get the correct manual

Did that 5+ years ago and never had any grounding issues, the oil pressure instrument reads consistently.

OHHHH, I thought that was a recent addition with the pipe nipple replacement!

The newer switches sold at CatalinaDirect have + and - terminals. If my new set up has a weak bond, I intend to clamp a grounding wire to it with a hose clamp, but I don't anticipate that this will be needed. 

By "new" oil switch -- do you mean this one?
XPA; B series engines oil switch
It's the only 2-terminal switch I see. 
That's for "A" and "B" engines (with the convoluted Westerbeke engine wiring) that require a N/O switch (open; closes with oil pressure.) 

You need a N/C switch (closed; opens with oil pressure.)  There are two-terminal N/C switches, but that one on CD is not.

The switch for your engine is
M-25; XP; etc oil switch
$64 or $28 from Kubota.

I don't have data but I'd guess that the oil pressure or hi-temp switches are less susceptible to high resistance on the threads than a gauge sender (which relies on impedance to read correctly.)

Many senders and switches are actually NPTF npt-fuel thread, which have a full (not truncated) peak and rely on that interference fit to seal (not by ptfe or pipe dope in the thread "valley".)  You may see these listed as "Dry Seal" senders.

If I install a sender or switch with no PTFE or dope, I use the copper-infused never seize so the thread doesn't gall/corrode into the block.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-09128-Copper-Anti-Seize-Lubricant/dp/B000HBM8HU/ref=asc_df_B000HBM8HU

I use ABA mini clamps from Steve to make bonding wires for senders:
https://www.ultimategarage.com/shop/index.php?cPath=309_30&sort=2a&filter_id=16&page=2

Good question. Only that the rest of the hull has it. I hadn't even thought about doing something different. If primer is all that's needed than great! But I wonder, then, why did Catalina gelcoat the keel?

Honest question, inquiring minds want to know.

What's the purpose of paying to epoxy-barrier-coat a lead keel? 
A barrier coat is to prevent blisters from forming on a polyester-fiberglas hull.

Isn't a good paint primer enough on a lead keel?

-Ken

That question wasn't necessarily directed to your situation — I don't know what CTY did over the years regarding gel coating lead.  Maybe Stu/Ron know?
It seems absurd to me but.... 

If you're getting gel coat chipping off, that seems to me that maybe it's not a good idea to adhere gel coat to lead. 
Or, is it a substrate letting loose that gel coat was applied on top of?

My '84 keel was never gel coated. I thought normal practice was to (if at all needed) fair it and shape the foil (as I did in some spots using West low density filler) and paint it and the fairing.