Messages

How so you cut the bands...?

Big scissors or slip a thin piece of wood under the bands and use a knife. They cut easy enough if they are plastic as mine were.
Jim

Sorry, I should have been more specific.  Did you attach the straps themselves to the tray or where they wrapped around the tray and the tank and then cinched down?

They wrapped around the tray, same as the original banding straps.  That's the reason for pulling a tracer line with the old banding straps then used the tracer to pull the hold-down strap thru.
Jim

Ok.. I think I get it.  How did you secure the ends of the straps?

Rolled them up, sort of more liked folded, then secured with cable ties.
Jim

How did you attach the rachet straps?

When I pulled the old banding straps I taped a tracer line and pulled it through.  I didn't use rachet straps, used cam lock straps and pulled tight.  The strap had the cam lock on one side and only one strap that followed the path of the original banding straps the cam lock was on top and the extra length of the strap was secured.  Was simpler to do then explain. 
Jim

I don't have a picture, but there are a couple of black straps that hold the tank to the tray, and I'm not sure how you remove them.

They are banding straps.  Only way is to cut them off. Sounds brutal but it's the only way. If you have some pull on a loading dock you may be able to borrow a tool and the material to replace them. I replaced them with Harbor Freight hold down straps.  Something like this but with only one strap and no hooks.  Has worked for many seasons and a lot of sailing.
https://www.harborfreight.com/set-of-two-6-ft-cam-buckle-tie-downs-94012.html

Jim

I've been thinking about buying this.   
https://www.eblofficial.com/products/ebl-2000w-portable-power-station

Advantages for me, self-contained, fast charging with shore power or my Honda generator (2hours), solar possible, fits under nav table

Disadvantage for me, not integrated into boat, wouldn't hook up to start boat or charge from engine.

Saw it here.  There's many posts on Lithium batteries, it's a work in progress for them so some information is outdated and updated in later posts.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlZ_9SJeeVE&list=PLsT7_jPsZM5pFpq8RX0oxjibknM2Gz361&index=91

My question for the more knowledgeable, how long will it run my Engle freezer? It uses 1.2 amps, estimate it runs about half the time to keep food frozen hard.

I would appreciate any comments pro and con to help me make a decision.
Jim

There's a winch on the starboard side of the boom.  Is this standard? If so, what is it intended to be used for?

Like Ron I don't think it's standard.  On the boom its purpose was probably for the outhaul.
Jim

My 30 year built in Microwave finally bit the dust.

It would be nice to find one to match but if you can't as Noah suggested repair may be a good option.  I've repaired microwaves a few times, a surprising number were internal fuses that were easy to replace.  You do need to be very careful, electricity may be stored up in the unit (forget what it's called, maybe magnetron?). 
I suggest you look to the web, I usually find a number of helpful how-to videos on everything. Just takes some searching to get through the ones that are just trying to sell.
Hope that helps,
Jim

Also make sure you're getting power to the plug, unplug the microwave and plug it into an extension cord you  know has power.

Unstepping is not a viable option at this time since the nearest place to do that is over 40 miles away.

Bummer.  Did the rigger explain his plan to run the wire up through the compression post then seal it inside the mast?  The wiring on Shamrock is in a short pipe, 8"? high, then all sealed with sealer, maybe silicon but not sure.  Don't see how it happens, unless the wire is run outside the compression post then thru the deck around the mast step then into the mast.  I just mention this because you may not know the rigger's plan and like it. I would expect his cost, labor, to be quite a bit. But then he may have experience with this and have a good solution.  I'd want to know before he starts drilling and cutting.
If you really feel the wind instrument is necessary, perhaps wireless would be a good choice for you.
As always, Your boat your choice.
Jim

He's going to cut an access port at the base and install new VHF coax and a new anchor light at the same time he's installing the wind transducer and cable.

Why not un-step the mast?  A more elegant install and the opportunity to do a better inspection.  I'm surprised the rigger didn't suggest that.
Sure is nice belonging to a DYI yacht club.  When I have mast work I get a couple of guys buy a case of beer and un-step the mast.  Do the work at my time.  Buy another case of beer and step the mast.  And the beer is optional but apricated.
Jim     

Here's my 2 cents. 
Anytime working on the fuel system it needs to be blead and run a bit to make sure all is well.  So IMHO if you decide to change them on the hard, be prepared to run the engine some.  Also, depending on how soon you do it, you may need to winterize afterwards.  I don't know about running hot dry exhaust thru the exhaust system designed for wet exhaust.  The exhaust hot even from a cold engine. 

If you do decide to run it on the hard.  Some thoughts, a pump to the lake water(rent?), big plastic barrels called juice barrels around here, or lots of buckets at the ready. Also, should talk to the boatyard about running the engine, they may have some suggestions or valid objections.

Jim

Rick,
I responded to your PM with my information.  I noticed that there were some old PM's that I didn't know were there.  I apologize to the people that I didn't respond to.  Will try to look at the PM file more often.
Jim

You may want to watch this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ALuKTUG6bHo&list=PLsT7_jPsZM5pFpq8RX0oxjibknM2Gz361&index=30

Jim

You can discharge black water into the Great Lakes?

A big no to that. Any black water overboard discharge valve is to be disabled.  At least the handle has to be removed.  Both the US and Canada officials will check and often fine. They used to look for that a lot, now not so much. They must not find many offenders.
Jim

Has anyone else had these thoughts, removed this valve?

When I bought Shamrock that valve and the macerator were already removed.  No problem for now as I sail the Great Lakes.  Would be a small thing to replumb.
So I think it depends on where you are.  If you are in a no discharge zone, remove it and plug the thru hull.  If you can discharge replace it, and check your hoses they may well be permeated.  ie stinky
Jim