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Ron mon ami, are you saying that you have personally witnessed your smile occurring "in one second"?   All I have heard is that it was always claimed to occur over off-season storage, not "immediately."

I wonder how CTY's would square its explanation of the cause with the smile on my keel being at the aft end?  Too much weight on the nose of the keel perhaps?  More CTY fantasy.

I agree that it probably doesn't take an M.E. -- in order to deduce that the hefty hull/keel stub box-beam section (below) between the nose and the first bolt, will not bend in the short distance in front of the first bolt. 

(M.E.s deal with moving objects, eivil/structural engineers deal with
mechanics/statics/strength of materials and stress/strain/bending under load.)
.

Mark

Just for context 'fer others I think you are referring to
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,11903.msg97457.html#msg97457

not
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,11903.msg97563.html#msg97563
(which links pertain to deterioration aft, not a fwd smile (which I did not have,) and my prior experience rebedding the keel joint material.)

-ken

Previous info about my "no aft smile" and the loose aft nut (in no particular order):

I think that the only way you will really know the answer to this question is if you have a mechanical engineering friend. Knowing that type, turn it into some kind of bet and offer them a case of their favorite beverage so they do a "Finite element analysis" of the keel/hull joint blocked in the front or blocked fore and aft.

Logic dictates that the bolt isn't stretching, but the piece of keel that sticks out forward of the forward most keel bolt can bend. I'm not saying it does bend, I'm saying it "could". FEA (finite element analysis) would tell you exactly how much force you would need to create a "smile"

Mark
Mola Mola

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[I EVEN NEED TO]

@High Anxiety

The aft-most nut was so loose my thumb turned it

I've previously posted about my same experience re: the fingertight aft nut and keel bedding so many times that my head hurts every time I repost about it.

The washers were set into the original gelcoat, which formed a surprisingly poor seal;

Are you thinking that CTY bolted-up the keel nuts/washers into wet gelcoat?  Doesn't seem logical to me.  What does, is the known issue on C-30s of torquing the nuts so many times that the washers compress the glass and bury themselves in the gelcoat.

Whether or not that underlying bedding is still intact is the (hopefully less than) $64,000 question.

hemming and hawing over whether to drop the keel. 

IIWMB my hem/haw would not be whether to drop the keel -- rather, my first step would be to decide WHEN to determine if I EVEN NEED TO drop the keel.  That is, answer that question right now — OR just go sailing now and answer it in fall '24 / spring '25. 
Nothing is going to change before then and the keel will not fall off if you put off finding that out.

Like engines, plumbing, electrical, and other systems: one should not play Whack-a-Mole and willy-nilly replace/fix before one troubleshoots, Troubleshoots, TROUBLESHOOTs.
(Then play "more-informed" Whack-a-Mole.)

possible damage from and difficulty with separating it, and I'm placing a lot of trust in the yard to do everything right

Removing the keel is also a costly job that could lead to more costly jobs on a 34 year old boat. 

Removing the keel is lightyears distant from being rocket science.
If I did it with no previous experience in dismembering the appendage, (IMO only) any other idiot like me **should** also be able to.
It's nasty, laborious (but not "difficult") work. 
Reattaching it takes brain power (unfortunately I learned that the hard way.)

That said I'm unsure whether I would trust the yard with anything.  Someone who blocks jack stands with 2x4s has (IMO only) questionable knowledge/conscientiousness and at worst doesn't care about their customers' yachts.  Gimmeabreak -- don't they have lumber yards in ME?

check torque often.

See above for (IMO) the danger of too-often and too-tighting of the keel nuts.
Keel nuts that are 40 ft-lbs shy do not cause the Catalina smile.

Previous info about my "no aft smile" and the loose aft nut (in no particular order):

https://groups.io/g/Catalina30/search?d=0&ev=0&p=recentpostdate%2Fsticky%2C%2C%2522keel%2522+AND+carbide%2C20%2C2%2C0%2C0&ct=1&startdate=&enddate=

https://www.sailnet.com/posts/2051801875/
https://www.sailnet.com/posts/319785/

https://c34.org/search_gcse/?q=%22kwkloeber%22%20%22keel%22%20joint%20OR%20bedding%20OR%20carbide

https://c34.org/bbs/index.php?msg=97345
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php?msg=82156
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php?msg=81134
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php?msg=74413
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php?msg=71726
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php?msg=67529

My saga about reattaching the keel:
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php?msg=67822

water coming FROM inside.

That's what attacks and eats up the "mung" keel bedding!
Been there, done that. 
Got the Tee shirt (and N-95 respirator.) 

Looks to me like water intrusion into hull, any blisters anywhere else? Was the hull sealed with an epoxy barrier coat?

The owner didn't say anything about blisters.  The whole area was peeling paint (and possibly barrier?) which led to him investigating it and grinding it back.

Sounded like an inside-out rather than an outside-in situation. 
But even if it was blistering due to intrusion, it wouldn't have been immersed in pink antifreeze to have that now dripping back out.
Odd!

Catalina Direct carries transmission cables.

Great vid thank you for sharing Ted!


Some inaccuracies but nice nonetheless.

When I did some work on my skeg a looong time ago I recall running into some pink stuff that appeared to be fairing/filler compound....

Maybe that might be the same pink that's in the background, under the bottom paint that was ground back.  Looks thin, maybe 1/4"?
I hope nothing was dripping from your strut area!!

He said it was pink stuff, I hope he didn't taste it go verify!

Like the issue of water from the tank puddling, has anyone ever seen or heard of puddled pink stuff eating/seeping thru the fiberglass hull? 

The pic below is where bottom paint was peeling on a C30 and underneath the paint is dripping pink (or what looks like it) after the area was ground back.

For reference, the painted shaft is at the bottom (right behind the shaft log) and above it the drips from the ground out fiberglass substrate.

This looks bizarre to me.

[Troubleshoot, troubleshoot, troubleshoot]

The mechanic replaced the buzzer and the oil pressure switch on the engine but the problem persists.

WOW.  Didn't solve the problem, huh?  Imagine that, Whack-a-Mole, willy-nilly, replacing parts instead of the mechanic troubleshooting the cause did nothing to resolve it. 
I trust that he isn't charging you for the parts and his ineptness as a mechanic?  If he is you got hosed.

Troubleshoot, troubleshoot, troubleshoot, THEN replace parts willy-nilly.  I'd love to start a forum JUSt addressing that, I will be repeating that 'ad infinitum"

FIRST, is it the oil switch or the temp switch that is alarming? (The first step he should have taken to troubleshoot it.) 
Rhetorical, but did he use the wiring schematic to understand why it is alarming?

the single wire from the oil sensor switch back to the panel would solve the problem or whether the whole harness needs to be removed and rebuilt.

B engines have no "single wire" from the oil pressure switch that drives the alarmm unless the wiring is NOT Westerbeke OEM.  The Wb scheme is a multi-conductor mess -- the alarm is always hot and shuts down when a "back voltage" is applied to the ground side of the alarm, driven by the fuel pump circuit. 
Please post a pic of your oil switch so we can take a look and provide a path forward.

I went thru the wiring on the forum and checking the voltages at different points with another owner.  If you can't locate that old post with a search I may be able to find it.

-ken

@d

Is it the OEM Westerbele harness?  i.e., does she have the stupid, convoluted, back-asswards Westerbeke wiring scheme on the B engines, or, like Ron's XPB, does she have the intelligent wiring scheme that Universal Oshkosh put on the pre-B engines?

-ken

Paulus,
Where did you buy the teak for the trim pieces? Could you get the same thickness?
how did you fashion the convex exdges, if not with a router?
I need to replace both of my trim pieces due to cracks.

Roland

ROLAND

https://c34.org/bbs/index.php?action=search2;params=eJwtzksOgzAMBNC7dNONu0ggVD1DD4GCMxK0gSCHjyrl8DWIjTV-si37sPmJEcq9mHIra4bkGazte__GhA6i3Mk5YKiqqDJkG6o1ODI1uZrsk0xDRuuLXEPWknO6lPu0t5zGOWLBdT-v3Qe8tGmKP6VDkiyaBBHnJxe1YRDlgMyHwAv32vP8GL0ME_4k3EAB

I color coded my black, vintage '84, plastic caps using rattle can paint for plastic.

No UV problem.
CD won't provide that tip!

Paul

https://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals#Universal_M-25.2C_M-25XP.2C_and_A-series_engines_.28M-25XPA.2FXPA.28C.29.3B_M-35A.2F35A.28C.29.29

The Service Manual, Workshop Manual, and Service Manual describes it and the last two have pictures of the butt end of the crankshaft/flywheel.

Then return to the parts manual and see p/n 299506, do a facepalm, and say Ohhhhh!! aloud.