My 1987 #296 came with the twin bow rollers and the single cleat in the center. I am going to mount an anchor roller and I want to install a cleat on each side like the newer boats have. Do I need to use cleats with four bolts each or just two bolts each. I have already put access plates in my anchor well so I can get to the area I need to bolt.
Jerry
Jerry
You just won't get a four hole cleat installed because there's not enough room down below to get your fingers, let alone the spread of a four-holer.
If you haven't yet, check Ron's writeup in Projects: http://www.c34.org/projects/projects-extra-bow-cleats.html
I only added one on the port side, so I have two - still use the center one for the starboard side.
I went with the two bolt kind. Got the same kind as the stern cleats. I think I bought them from Defender, though West Marine has them too. I think Shaefer makes them. Best to make up some backing plates from aluminium bar stock to ensure they don't rip out under high load. Also, tie a piece of string around the wrench you use for the nuts under the deck. That way when (not if) you drop it :shock: you'll be able to retrieve it. :thumb:
Jerry : Look at what I did, but make sure that you use 8" side cleats. I've changed mine from 6" as they were too small.
If you look in the new Defender catalog you'll see that an 8" stainless (Schaefer@$70) is only $10 more than the aluminum 8". To me that's a "no brainer". :clap
Thanks everyone. I had bought some stainless four bolt cleats at the end of last season and made a template of a backing plate that it seems I can fit. Bit if the two bolt ones are strong enough, I'll make it easy on myself. My mooring is very exposed and I want to make sure the cleats and the deck can take the abuse. Jerry
Jerry
Abuse on a mooring seems to have much more importance than in a slip. While the issue of having 2 or 4 holes is simply based on the space that Catalina did ( or didn't) leave underneath, your idea of a backing plate is important. If YOU feel you can fit one in for a 4 holer, then I think you should really consider installing a two hole backing plate, rather than just the finish washers and lock nuts that I installed. I only use the old center cleat for our anchor line, and the "new" smaller port cleat is for our port fwd dockline.
I'd earlier emailed Jerry that what we did was keep the center line original cleat and only add one six-incher on the port side - it was the only one I could get to at an anchorage in rolling "seas" with our old "wired" drill which was connected to our (then new-to-us) inverter.
Hey, at that time, it WAS a major, and successful, undertaking. :D
Stu,
It wasn't quite clear in you last reply whether you favored trying to fit the four bolt cleat or if you think the two bolt cleat is as strong. I would opt for stainless in either case. My one concern with the four bolt model is that the bolt feet my offer some chafe to the eye of my moring line. I never tie to a dock unless I'm taking on fuel and water. I'm on my mooring a good 2000 feet out in exposed water, or at anchor. So my bow cleats are everything to me. Once I mount an anchor roller I do not see how the old center cleat will be af any use at all. Jerry
I have done something different from most. i installed a 10 Stainless cleat directly behind the anchor well. this is where a lot of windlesses have been installed. it was a 4 bolt and is backed up inside the V-berth. Because it is more open it is easier to work when putting out and retrieving the anchor. Not sure if a mooring is one line or not but my anchor line runs straight into the port side roller. Something different to think about.
Howard
Jerry, what anchor roller did you decide to buy?
I think I'm going to get the Windline CR-1 or the URM-4 roller. They are both short enough to miss our anchor doors. I think in 1988 all the C-34 started comming with the CR-1s.
Jerry
Jerry
I hadn't thought about strength, nor the issue of chafe. All I was talking about was the access below in order to get even two bolts through, and don't think there's space for four.
Do you put a bridle on your mooring pennant to the boat? If you do connect to both sides, then two-holer cleats should work. In addition, I recommend considering installing rub strakes at the edge of the gunwale adjacent to the cleats to minimize chafe on the fiberglass edge where the lines go overboard.
Stu,
Yes, I think I will go with the strakes. I guess with long backing plates the two bolt SS cleats will be fine.
Jerry : The 1989 was the first C34 to come out of the factory with a REAL bow roller. Before I installed mine I called Windline and they informed me that Catalina was installing the CR 1 Narrow bow roller on their C34s. That's why I decided to install the CR 1 on my 1988.
The stern cleats on your 1987 are 8". Wouldn't it make since to also to install an 8" on each side in the bow?
A thought!! :idea:
Ron, Yes. I am going to install an eight inch on each side of the bow. I am just deciding whether I should bust my but to fit ones with four bolts each or just two bolts each. I will use SS. My mooring is very exposed and our boats take major beatings out there so I want something that will not have any chance ot ripping out of my deck. I do plan to use the CR-1 or the URM-1 (I do not see a lot of difference). I realize this means cutting away the outer flange of the existing starboard roller.
Once this is mounted it seems center bow cleat will be useless. It will now be too far forward and I will be using the twin cleats for both mooring and anchoring.
My only concern is the strength of the deck in this narrow area between the hull to deck joint and the anchor well.
I'm just trying to sort all this out so I can start installing this stuff within the next month. I go in the water in very early May.
Howard,
Did you install chocks on each side of the bow? I sit at a mooring that is well protected. I like to leave my anchor on the roller as I am too lazy to pull it out and the stem lays right next to the bow cleat. I had two center cleats with chocks on either side of the bow on my previous boat and liked the set up. You have to be sure to use a chfe gaurd on the lines though.
What does anybody else think about this?
Dave G
No. i left the cleats inplace. i use them at the dock. i only use the large center one for anchoring. this way i dont worry about chafing either way. Works for me.
Jerry : Look at my bow roller in projects and you'll see that I contoured the inside of the bow roller so the center cleat is still usable. I use the center cleat to secure the 1/2" braid on braid anchor rode.
You'll have to make a decision on how you'll attach to your mooring:
1. I made a 5/8" single line that loops over that center cleat, goes thru the bow roller next to the Bruce and extends out about a foot and then attachés to a mooring pennant.
2. Make a bridal out of 5/8" line that attachés to the cleat on one side and the cleat on the other side. It should clear the anchor in the roller and then attach to the mooring.
A few thoughts. :wink:
Ron, I have two mooring penants that make up my bridle. Right now they come up over the two stock rollers and onto the center cleat. Once I put the two new cleats on, they will just drop over each cleat and be secured with a small line over the cleats. I never thought that once I pit the CR-1 roller mount on that I would still use the center cleat for anchoring. I thought I would run the line back to the new starboard cleat. I'm going out to me boat today and I'll have a look. Jerry
Jerry, you wrote: "Once this [the new bow roller] is mounted it seems center bow cleat will be useless. It will now be too far forward and I will be using the twin cleats for both mooring and anchoring."
It just occurred to me that once the anchor is down, the eisting enter cleat will still be useful, even if you have the new bow roller. The line comes straight back from both the old and new rollers, so why turn it to go to the newer side cleats?
This post is somewhat associated with the Bow Rollers post at: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=2716.0