Breezer does not have a wind speed/direction indicator. Since I am begining to race again, I'd like to get one so I don't have to depend on my Windex alone! Does anyone have advice on makes, models, and installation? My depth, speed, and autopilot are Raymarine.
Mike
Hi, I've been thinking about the same thing. We have the Newport Boat Show coming up soon sooooooooooooo. I've been reading a little about the wireless wind/speed by tacktic. It's a little pricey but now wires. I think the website was tacktic.com,,,,not sure. Anyone out there have a wireless system? 8)
Mike,
Look at my earlier posts on the new TackTick line of wireless instruments. I put their wind instrument on "Molly Rose". It's been great. Being solar powered it's totally wireless and that makes it a breeze to install. I put the masthead unit on with the stick up. the display has lots of mounting options. I just used the double sided tape. It's worked great all season, including an all night race across Lake Michigan, and I highly reccoment it.
More info is also available at Layline.com. (which is where I bought mine)
Bought the Raymarine from West marine. Will have it installed this week. Wireless technology is just too new for me!
Mike
Mike : There's and article that I wrote in the Mainsheet (years ago) on installing an electronic wind insturment with the Mast UP.
Good luck. :wink:
Ron -
Thanks, but I have a rigger who is doing the masthead installation while I'm earning the boat units to pay for it. He will mount it, fish the cable out the bottom of the mast and leave the rest for me to install at the helm. The cable will be run inside the starboard conduit with the speed and depth meter cables. Now I just have to figure out the best mounting configuration for four instruments!
Mike
My old Windex is trashed due to birds using it as a perch. With the Raymarine wind instrument installed, do you see a need for a new Windex?
Mike
Yup. Windex doesn't violate the KISS principle...if you become too dependent upon instruments in a racing environment for aceing your polars, your game will go to hell when you lose 'em. Just like flying, one peak is worth a hundred radar sweeps...
Cheers!
Vac
Mike : I agree with Vac. While the rigger is up there, reinstall a new Windex - as it's less than 1/2 a boat unit! You'll find that the electronic wind direction is dampened a bit and not as instantaneous as the Windex. My crew likes the Windex best and I like the electronic gage. Cheap back up anyway.
My new wind instrument (anemometer) installation is complete! I also had some old hardware, the remains of the TV antenna, and an old cell phone antenna taken off the mast and it really cleaned it up. I had a new Windex installed also. I snaked the instrument cable into the starboard forward storage locker, then up under the top shelf all the way back into the aft cabin, then across the top of the hanging locker, and then up through the pedestal guard. I used an electrician's fish tape from Lowe's to run the wiring and it made it really easy - especially working with the pedestal guard - previously I used lead split shot on a string! I have ordered a second three instrument NavPod to mount on the pedestal below the exsisting one. When I'm through, I'll have my depth, wind, and speed instruments mounted on the top NavPod and my autopilot mounted in the center of the lower one. All my instruments are Raymarine and are networked using SeaTalk. Nice arrangement!
Now I'm off to troubleshoot my electric anchor windlass system which just stopped working! Does it ever end?
Mike
My windless stopped working one day recently just when I was try to raise the anchor from the famous Lake Lanier clay bottom (adds about 50# extra weight coming up!). Had to use boat maneuvers and 59 year old back to raise. :x
I tested DC across my breaker (I have dedicated 90A) and decided to forgo any more tracing and went straight to windless (which on 91's is enclosed in it's own "chamber"). I did not want to take out the whole thing so I tried the foot switch first. Long story short - after pulling switch apart (DON"T LET ANY PARTS FALL INSIDE WINDLESS COMPARTMENT) I found that the large copper round disk that is the actuator contact had simply corroded after 12 seasons. I buffed all the cooper parts with my Dremil tool and clean off corrosion, put back together, re-sealed covers and it works like a charm. Simple , cheap solution. :lol: Just don't let any parts, or the wires drop into housing! VERY small opening without totally removing windless.
Jim -
I suspect it is the solenoid since the breaker and fuse checked out OK. It clicks once and then nothng happens, but I haven't done any more diagnostics - I'll do them this afternoon. Any suggestions on procedure?
Mike
Hi Mike
I mounted my instruments in a simaler fashon to what you are thinking (2 NavPods). All 4 instruments are mounted in a 4 instrument NavPod. Below that I mounted a larger NavPod and installed a Chartplotter on one side. This leaves me room on the lower (larger) NavPod for another display, possibly radar. I would consider any future purchases (chartplotter, radar, cockpit VHF) and how to mount them now. You might think about moving auto to the side of the lower NavPod to keep as much available space available for future use or even upgrading your orderd NavPod to one large enough to mount a chartplotter or radar in. This set up has worked very well for me.
I would still check the foot switch (assuming that is what you have). Mine checked out (current) all the way to the switch so I knew it was either switch or motor itself. My foot switch is simply a rubber enclosed plunder type switch. Plunger is spring loaded to stay in up position (no contact) and when depressed, the cooper disk makes contact across the points, when they are not covered with corrosion. Release pressure and switch is off.
Once you tear into foot switch, you can jump the two contacts and windless should run, so then you know the "green" stuff on all the contacts is killing the circuit. If you you don't have foot switch installation, I would still test what ever you have for switching to see if direct current will run motor.
If you have foot switch, it will come off, but use care with rubber seals and a stiff putty knife will help. Getting the switch out of mounting hole called for vice grips and knife to cut through sealant. When finished, reseal and reassemble.
Jim -
I have a hand held remote Up-Down control which plugs into a receptical on the side of the coach roof, and a simple toggle switch backup in the forepeak. Neither happens with either switch, so the problem must lie elsewhere. Heading for the boat now, I report results later!
Standing By in Guf Breeze, FL
Mike
Ok, so I got the indicator mounted, but the calibration instructions seem to be written in secret code. The instructions say to automatically "linearize" the ST60, just power it up and slowly turn in two complete circles (circles are always complete, but I digress). When complete, The unit will flash dashes and beep three times. We followed the instructions anmd circled for about 15 minutes waiting of somethng to happen. Nothing did, except for John Sheehan coming alongside in his pontoon boat wondering what the hell we were doing! I continued on to zero the instrument into the wind. So, I used a $45 Windex to calibrate my $800+ (less installation) wind instrument. Do I hear the guys at Raymarine snikering? Hey, what a deal!
Seriously, has anyone broken the code on "linearizing" the ST60 Wind Instrument?
Mike
Mike : At those $$, I damn sure know who I'd be talking to on Tuesday morning!! :!:
Ron -
Assuming I'm here Tuesday morning!!!
- Mike
Mike,
I knew exactly what you were trying to do since I have spent a bunch of time out there going around in circles trying to get my ST-60 wind meter to initialize without success. When the grand guru at Raymarine lets you know the secret handshake please let me know also.
Thanks, John
John -
Jan and I were slowly turning circles in the cockpit until we figured out they meant turn the boat in slow circles! I'll let you know what I find out, but one of the C34 owners will probably answer first. After wiring the wind instrument the knotmeter is dead - more troubleshooting ahead today! Looks like we skated this hurricane - too bad for Apalachicola.
Mike