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Sedona Sunset,#219 1986 with M25, came with and still has a basic in line Jabsco $30- raw water intake filter. Always works stopping seaweed or what ever before doing damage. The only draw back is that the hose has to be removed from the filter to winterize, as I put a hose in bucket to draw in fresh water and flush engine before adding antifreeze.  I was told that there is an intake filter that can be used to winterize with out having to remove any hoses. Does any one use this type of filter and if so, what is the name of it and where can it be bought.  All suggestions greatly appreciated.

Jeff

I post this question to all who have replaced the aqualift muffler.  Last spring I had to have a mechanic on board and he mentioned that some exhaust work should be done in the near future.  I asked him if it was the muffler and he said yes.  The boat is an '86, M25,  and it is probably the original, however, the engine runs like a top and there is no leaking out of the muffler. The removal looks pretty straight forward, 4 screws in the corners, remove the inlet hose from the riser and remove the output hose. Question is, how hard is it to remove and where did you get a new one.  I saw what looks like the original on Catalina Direct, no price listed. Also, if there is no leaking, should I undertake this project.  All replies greatly appreciated.  As the boat is now on the hard, this will be a spring project.  Thanks in advance...Jeff

Towards the end of sailing season, I no longer heard the clicking sound that the fuel pump makes, which makes me believe that it has or will shortly, fail. In my 16 years of owner ship, I have not changed the pump. I read that a Facet pump was original, but I've seen a NAPA replacement mentioned. Looking for the replacement pump #  for the M25 engine. Thanks....Jeff

As per my earlier posts, I need a new prop, not a transmission. The damaged prop was a composite 2 blade 15 1/2X9, going now for a bronze. After reading many threads on this forum, it seems that the earlier C34's with the 21 hp Universal M25 w/Hurst 50, boat came with either a 2 or 3 blade prop 15X9 with 9* pitch. I know that the 2 blade creates less drag but the 3 blade gives a little more umph when needed. When looking on line, seems 3 blade is less money and money now is of concern.  Looking for suggestions, need to go to H&H prop tomorrow. Thanks...Jeff

Sedona Sunset has M25 Universal with Hurst 50 trans. So far the boat has been running great. Went out today, always motor from mooring about a mile out into channel. After a few moments of motoring, felt a clunk, as if I ran over a lobster bouy, but not. Could still motor, but if rev's brought over 1500, boat shook like it was coming apart. Checked t fluid, up to level, no trans leaks, in neutral, engine purred, so something went a foul in the transmission.  Looking to get any info, help if any one has experienced this. Thanks in advance...Jeff

I am planning on replacing the bilge pump that came with the boat, Rule with float switch, no longer pumps well.  Looking into the Rule 1100 GPH automatic pump and eliminate the float switch. Looking for feed back on this, who has converted to automatic as opposed to sticking with pump and float switch.  All reviews on automatic look pretty good.  Let me know your thoughts.

Jeff

I have finally decided to install a water heater by pass system on my 1986, will save money as 6 gallons of antifreeze will no longer be needed.  Bought Camco kit with 2 valves and 8" hose. Pretty straight forward, except I am asking where the drain plug is located on the heater, or, will all the water be released when I remove the bottom cold water line. Boat is coming out in 3 weeks, so I want to get my plan in order. Looks like I will need some more brass fittings to complete the job. All suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks.

Earlier this summer, for the first time ever in my 50+ years of sailing, I experienced a hard grounding on submerged rock. Fortunately, I was able to back off and find clean water out to sea. It didn't seem to be very hard hit but it was rock. I never took on any water and all seemed fine for the rest of the season, which ended for me last weekend, failed water pump discussed earlier.  1986 #219 is a tall mast, shallow keel model. The boat was pulled last week and I finally got to inspect the damage.  The front of the keel, along bottom edge of each side and the very bottom rear was scraped and gouged. I was able to pound most of the lead back, except for a few spots that will be filled in with marine tex. I exposed much of the lead, removing some type of coating.  My question is, prior to repairing with marine tex, should I apply some type of barrier coating to the exposed lead.  Let me know.

Thanks,

Jeff

I was out for the last sail on Saturday. Motored out of Salem Harbor, shut down engine and waited for a breeze, nothing, ocean flat, so started up engine, M25, and after a few seconds heard a very loud screech sound from down below, shut down engine. Went below to check out engine compartment, started engine and saw that the pulley on the fresh water pump was not spinning. Shut off engine, tried to free pulley, no go. Hailed TowBoat US and got tow back to mooring. Took off pump, bearing most have seized, not bad, lasted 30+ years. Earlier in the season I replaced the HX and raw water pump. Yesterday had to get towed to marina for winter storage, fortunately I paid for unlimited towing so n/c. It is worth the extra money to get towing included, in fact, just renewed membership and upgraded to gold. Off to Hanson Marine in Marblehead for new pump, nipple and gasket plus new belt. Will install next weekend, long with winterization proceedure. Moral of sad story is that after 30 or so years, mechanical parts will fail and most important, up your coverage for unlimited towing, $151- a year thru BoatUS is a bargin. Season is now over. 

Last year, towards the end of our short season, I found it was hard to pump the head, manual Jabsco.  The head needed replacing so I bought a new manual Jabsco.  Just launched the boat and when I started to prime and pump the new head, found same problem.  Water is drawn in very easy but when handle pushed down, feel pressure resistance.  I can only think that the diverter valve, into holding tank or out to sea, is somehow defective. I don't think it could be the vented loop as water just goes thru it.  The thru hull is clear.  If anyone can shed some light on this matter, I would greatly appreciate it.  I need to get this fixed shortly, as the Tall Ships are parading intro Boston Harbor on Saturday and I have a crew to go and view.

Very seldom do I drop anchor, but the Tall Ships are coming to Boston June 17th and I want to be there. Upon checking out my gear, I noticed that the chain and rope look pretty natty. As I must replace the chain and rope, my question is, chain size 1/4" or 3/8" and is 15' good or should be longer. Also, 1/2" rope X 150', twisted or braided, which one is more preferd. Will drop anchor in about 40', with so many boats around will definetly not get a 7:1 scope, probably about 3:1 for a few hours. I welcome all responses. Thanks, and sorry for any spelling mistakes.

I have the standard 2" heat exchanger on my 1986  M25. I experienced over heating late in our season. It has been boiled out at a radiator shop  a few times already.  I know many have upgraded  to the 3". What, other than getting new clamps to hold it on the bracket, do I need to get for the upgrade? The boat is covered for the winter, but I want to get everything needed soon so if there is some mild weather, I can start the project.  I saw some aftermarket exchangers in the high $300- range, that come from reputable mfg's., Mr. Cool is one. Do I need bigger hose and fittings or will the ones from the 2" one work? Thanks for the replys

This is just an FYI for us with older boats which still have Data Marine Instruments.  If you have a non working instrument, faulty or whatever, there is a repair shop in Middleborough, Ma. who can repair these old guages.  I recently had my depth sounder repaired and it now works like new.  His name is Steve and he can be reached at 774-213-9744,  52 Centre St. 02346.  Quality work at a fair price.

Just had old stuffing box replaced with PSS dripless system.  The water discharge hose was plumbed in to the heat exchanger,2", on a tee with the  zinc.  We took the boat around to my mooring today, into strong 20 mph head wind.  After maybe 30 minutes of motoring, I heard a loud screeching noise that lasted for several seconds, then quieted down and then started again, over and over.  The engine temp remained steady at 180*.  I went below to the aft berth, removed the cushions and found noise coming from shaft area.  When back at the mooring, I touched the shaft and end of PSS and they were too hot to touch.  I went back to the boat yard and spoke to the mechanic about it.  He said he would come out to the boat to see what problem was.  Once home, he called me and asked me to do an experiment, take out the zinc, put brass plug in place, and take the boat out by motor. His thoughts were that the zinc was blocking the water from traveling thru the heat X at a steady flow thus causing the intermittent screeching and very hot shaft and PSS.  Has anybody else experienced such a problem, and also, if you have a PSS shaft, where was the water hose discharged to.  All thoughts are welcome.  Thanks...Jeff

Must be the summer for overheating.  On #219 w/ M25, motor usually runs about 165-170* @ 1800rpm's, except when motoring into heavy head winds she might climb to 185*.  Last weekend temp climbed close to 200*.  Went out today with new impeller+ gasket plus new thermostat and gasket.  A friend helped me and when done, fired her up and found not pumping any water.  Shut down engine, opened up raw water strainer to check for blockage, found none, water gushing in.  Removed water pump, oberdofer, impeller cover again, checked impeller, not problem.  Went thru this more times than I want to say, wasting precious sailing time now, and still no water coming out of exhaust.  Opened bleed screw, no help.  Installed another impeller, still no luck.  Checked all hoses, no problems.  I am perplexed, my friend is a mechanic and we did all the right checks.  What am I missing, can't figure out why no water being pulled thru.  Any suggestions or helpful ideas will be greatly appreciated.  Thanks,

Jeff

Just hauled the boat for winter storage, our season here in the northeast is so short. During the sailing season, I noticed the rudder cap kind of moving in a strange motion, seemed to be moving not just around but a little back and forth.  I had the rudder and steering quadrent,cables replaced several years ago, no problems. When I inspected the rudder on the hard, it had movement side to side and back and forth, more than I am comfortable with.  My question is, is there a bushing where the post goes thru the stern or possibly something else that could have failed inside.  I had no trouble steering the boat, always felt ok, but this movement is causing me concern.  All replys and suggestions are welcome.  Thanks...jeff

This is just an fyi. The PO had a Schafer 2100 system installed in '01. The system has worked great until a few weeks ago, when unfurling and furling required Hercules to be on board. I got my rigger, Kevin from NE Rigging, to come on to inspect. He said the lower drum was hanging up and called Schafer, right here in New Bedford,Ma. Schafer told him there was a problem starting to arise on pre '04 systems because of a lack of a flush hole on these models, which caused the bearings and race to get full of corrosion, salt, ect.,and would replace the part for $130-. Part replaced yesterday and now the system works like new. So, anyone with a pre '04 system, beware, there is a problem, but it is an easy, and not too expensive, fix...Jeff

Yesterday, fire up the diesel in preperation of next weeks launch. Prior to this, had mechanic install a new impeller and gasket on oberdoffer 4 bolt waterpump on m25. Engine fired right up and was pumping fine. Removed ladder and stairs to check for any leaks from pump, filters,ect. and noticed a drop of water leaking from, not the impeller face plate, but thru the open slot at the bottom of the pump. Only a drop at a time, not a flow,and no temp. rise. I called the mechanic to explain, but he hasn't got back to me yet. Question,is this going to be a problem or should I start to think of replacing the pump, or is there a seal that can be replaced. All replys appreciated. Thanks...Jeff

I just recently acquired a forespar whisker pole, lc13-22 line adjustable,off an erickson 38', maybe overkill but the deal was worth it, excellent cond. for $50-. Having sailed for over 45 years, this will be my first experience experience with a whisker pole. It will be used strictly for downwind, wing to wing. I have a spare halyard which i will use for the topping lift, attached to outboard end, I will lift the inboard end and clip it to padeye already on mast.  The pole will be stored on deck as there is a mount already in place, PO had a pole but couldn't find it when i bought boat. I watched a forespar short movie about using the pole, but i have a few questions. The short showed the outboard end attached to the jib line, not directly to the genny, what is the concensious of this? Also, the boat model used had no lower shrouds, so the pole in the movie was perpendicular to the mast. With the lower foward shrouds on the c34's, this can't happen, the pole will be always foward of them, correct? All insight on this will be greatly appreciated. Thanks...Jeff

last spring i posted that i was experiencing vibration when motoring. all posts came back suspecting the motor mounts. found one stripped bolt, 3/8"x2", which i just removed . just got thru reading past posts on this subject and want to be sure i can use a 3" bolt, couldn't find a 2 1/2" one. it appears that there is plenty of stringer to go the extra 1". the past posts mention only 2" and 2 1/2". if any one has used a 3" bolt or verify to me no problem, i would greatly appreciate it. our short 5 month season is over, boat's on the hard, mast down, having all the rigging standing replaced....jeff

i have posted before that #219 has a very noticeable vibration when cruising around 2000 rpms. the vibration osilates up than tapers of. 1800 or less rpms or more than 2200rpms and vibration seems to subside.  had a mechanic on board last season. found nothing loose, only thought was the shaft might not be straight. took it apart end of last season. had shaft straightened, balanced the prop, new cutlass brg, packing and coupler. engine is m25. this season, same thing. can't find anything loose to cause vibration, so my next thought goes to the hump hose. i have done a lot of reading about this in past posts, and saw that this hose could cause engine vibrations. there is no hump hose on this engine, only a 6" piece of straight hose between riser and muffler. am i on to something here. open to all suggestions. thanks...jeff

on my m25 engine, i am toying with changing the 2 - 5/8" hoses from the engine to the water heater or at least getting a 6' section cut to keep on the boat, just in case. after removing one of the hoses, i noticed the were "shields" wire inserted water hose. i was wondering if regular heater hose could be used. is there pressure that could collapse the hose, which is why wire is inserted, or does this function like an auto or truck where antifreeze goes thru the heater hoses, into and out of the heater core? if there is no high pressure or  suction, a high quality silicone impregnated heater hose could be used, which of course, is much less money and far more flexable. the hoses may have been changed in the past, i don't know. any info on this would be appreciated thanks...jeff

several months ago, dave davis had a post on replacing fuel tank vs. clean out . i just got thru replacing mine on #219. i read all the past posts and figured that after 20 years, better to replace than take a chance of springing a leak. as dave wrote, the part #is 20791 but it cost me $331+ shipping across country for a total of $362-,right from catalina. much thicker alum. then one i removed, but there are some differences in design so that those of you looking to do the job, be prepared to make some minor adjustments. the tank itself is an 1" shorter, no big deal, but the vent fitting is about 6" toward the front and the ground terminal is by the fuel sender, where as mine was by the fuel fill. this required a new vent hose and i had to run a new 14g ground wire. again no big deal, but since you are working in such a small area, it gets a little tedious. also, the orig tank was held down with 6 screws. the new tank comes with only 2 holes. i drilled 4 additional holes, put washers under the screw heads, a little never-seeze compound under washers to prevent possible electrolysis, and screwed down into new holes, tank is not going to move. also, replaced all 3/8" fuel lines, return line was done last season. easy change out, few hours of work and for $362-, cheap insurance...jeff

i recently had all the thru hull fittings replaced, due to damage done to my boat due to an explosion at a chemical plant located next to the marina where i winter the boat. force actually dislodged some, so the ins. adj. wanted them out and rebedded or replaced. boat went in last weekend. went back out to day to do some finish up projects and also to check for leaks, none. heard the bilge come on and decided to check, some water left so i sponged dry and did a clean up job but kept noticing water seeping in to the bilge. i tasted it and it was fresh water so i was going to have to check for leaks in all the water lines. i was using my foot pump to get some water to clean up, when i heard splashing coming from the head. i opened up the locker, and low and behold, one of the plastic unions connecting the water lines to the sink fittings had split open and water was pissing out. had to crimp off the hose to stop leak and back to shore to get new galvanized steel unions. point, for all of us with older boats, check these fittings and if they're  plastic, replace them before they fail...jeff

much has been written and discussed about low sulfur fuel. as i have stated before, i am a proponent of adding fuel cond. to help, low sulfur is here to stay and must be dealt with. this post is an fyi. one of the companies i rep for, crc/mary kate, chemicals just sent me a new product bulletin about the introduction of "lubricure", a concentrated lubricity improver. crc fuel conds. have lubricity in them, but this is a stand alone product. it only increases lubricity. many people don't use fuel cond. in the warmer weather and this product will help. what the product touts, is that it will restore essential lubricity lost by the sulfur reduction, reduce engine wear, and it will protect diesel fuel pumps and injectors. it is a concentrate so a little goes a long way. 12oz. treats up to 125 gallons. add some to each fill and you will be doing a good thing for your fuel system. take this for what its worth...jeff

much has been written about cowl vents, style, material, height,ect. this is just an fyi for those that have regular, plastic/rubber, type nicro or vetus vents or any other plastic type. after about a year in the sun,new ones start looking mighty worn out and discolored. well, krylon spray paint makes a spray for plastics called fusion and #2322,dover white is an exact match. no sanding required, just spray on and they look brand new. can be found in any home store of auto parts store. i just redid mine,2 years old, and they look great. just passing off some info...jeff

i have decided to treat my boat and especially myself, to a bimini, sun doesn't like me anymore.  has anyone dealt with the canvas store in ny.i have seen their ad in mainsheet,so i called and spoke to steve yesterday and liked what he said and does to build and price quoted was in line with local canvas shops in my area, $1,250 for 7/8" stainless and $1,425 for 1". if anyone has had experience with them, i would appreciate any feedback. thanks...jeff

unfortunately, for us in the n.e.,our season is just about over.#219 is  coming out next week. 2nd full season with her was great, new elliptical rudder made such a great improvement in handling. for my fall project, i am planning on removing and replacing the 4 fixed ports. after 20 years, the original ones are crazed beyond repair. if anyone has a good idea of how to remove the ports, in one piece that is, i would greatly appreciate all suggestions. i figure that  getting a flat edge under on of the corners and tapping across and down might work, but if heat is needed or if there is a better way to get the job done, i'm all ears, and eyes in this case.  thanks for all replys...jeff

even though our season has finally begun up here in n.e., i am planning next years upgrades now. much has been written about this and steve just listed all his of importance in last main sheet, i am looking for real time opinions as which should come first, a new traveler or rigid boom vang. #219 had a traveler upgrade by the po to a harken in 1992. still has rope boom vang. both work fine. our season is so short here that we have to pick and choose what to do each year. garhauer price on each item is about the same, less than $500-. all deck hardware, mainsheet blocks, lines, ect. have already been done for this season. looking for ideas of which is considered more important. thanks...jeff

finally got first sail in today. new rudder recently installed felt great, new elliptical style. moves a lot of water. wind died and we had to motor back. noticed that rpm's declining from 2,000 to a steady 1700. throttle up and a few seconds later, down. read a past post stating that inside the pedestal was a 9/16 bolt for friction. ron posted that it is on the starboard side. how visable is it and how far down. compass was just off so new chain/cable could be installed for the new quadrent for steering. no problem to remove again. all suggestions will be appreciated. thanks...jeff

as this will be my 2nd season with #219, i am still getting to know her. i would appreciate input on 2 questions. i have seen boats with both cowl vents facing fore, both aft and 1 each way. currently i have both facing fore. i have in the head and aft cabin, nicro day/night solar vents, both vent out and move the air nicely. is there a correct way to position the cowl vents? also the boat still has the rope boom vang, someday i will upgrade to the rigid type but money going elsewhere now. i have just replaced the mainsheet blocks to the new 6:1 setup, also new line. now have extra blocks and line and was planning to use the old fiddle block and redo the vang to get rid of the cam cleat and run the line thru a sheave in the deck org. and bring back to an empty rope clutch,now  being  able to control the vang from the cockput. has anyone done this, does it work? thanks for any input...jeff

when i bought #219, two seasons ago, no reefing lines were i place. last year was first full season and really didn't need to reef main except, we should have once. am going to set up a single line system, as posted on c380 web sight, with 2 blocks attached on main sail reef. grommets, , 2 cheek blocks on boom and fairlead on mast, down to block on mast collar to deck org. and to an empty  clutch on coach roof. looks simple to set up and post stated excellent performance. keeping everything on port side. will switch topping lift suspenders to starboard tie off. question, what size line is suggested, 5/16 or 3/8? wm is running a sale, so time to stock up. our season up here in n.e. is coming. i think 60' will work. once set up, i will take pic's and post. thanks...jeff

just a follow up note from my past posts about  my new rudder for #219. ordered new rudder 2nd week of nov.from catalina parts, just received today. the rudder post on old one was 35 5/8". new ones are 35 3/8". faxed all measurments to chris in parts and to kent in tech .service, as i thought this measurment was critical. the new post is 36" so it will have to be altered slightly. i am in the process of finding a full service mechine shop in the local area to cut and drill both rudder cap hole and quad. hole. pt# 10787 is for a wing keel, closesd transom model. my boat has a shallow draft keel, 4'8'', so they supply one for the wing keel models. pt. #24231 is for the emer. post cap. total cost including crating and shipping across the country was $1,494, not too bad, actually arrived ups. a follow up question- to those of you who have replaced your rudder, what did you do , if anything, prior to  painting? is there anything you put on first?  my boat is in salt water so i use ablative antifouling paint. any suggestions will be appreciated. happy holidays...jeff kaplan

as the season up here in the northeast,boston, rapidly comes to an end, i am faced with removing the rudder to send to catalina for a new one. when i bought #219,1986 tall rig shallow draft, end of last season, the surveyor used a term he coined as "rust blowout" coming from the leading edge of the rudder and a few other spots. he said the percussion sound was good but that in the near future i should replace the rudder. as i am now completing my first season,btw, she has greatly surpassed all my expectations as far as speed, performance and comfort, i plan to drop the rudder at the end of the season, while on the travel lift. i have read all the past posts about this but no one actually explained how to do it. i know that the bolt thru the rudder post cap must be removed and the bolt thru the steering quadrant must be removed but how do i get to the quad.? do i remove the panel in the aft cabin? ron mentioned that the aft water tank might have to be moved or removed? if any one could detail exactly how the rudder should be removed, i would greatly appreciate it. thanks...jeff kaplan

just wanted to share an incident that ended ok. was sailing #219,sedona sunset, in the boston area heading back to port in salem on a nice reach with easterly 15kt wind. turned to go down wind and hit a dead area. had to make some time so fired up the diesel and started motoring toward a windy patch of ocean hoping to find the last puff of the afternoon. suddenly it seemed that we hit something and the engine just stopped, buzzer sounding. we were in 50' so i knew no rocks. couldn't get shifter out of forward. all i thought was sh-t, there goes the trans. well, i noticed we weren't moving and must have snagged something submerged, lobster pot probably, a million of them in this area. after a few minutes, i was able to free the shifter. engine started right up, but shifted in to forward and she died out. we then furled the genny and i knew i was going swimming, cold water up here. sure enough, a line was wrapped around the shaft. i freed us, climbed back on board, don't you think there should be another step on the ladder, fired up the engine, shifted into forward and was thrilled when we started making way. no damage. i suppose my point was to be thankful for engine shutdown systems. watch for pots...jeff kaplan

as posted before, end of last season i bought  #219, 1986 tall rig, shallow draft. mast was recently stepped and i have gotten 5 sails so far. i now need to tune the rigging and am looking to see if anybody can supply me with the correct shroud tension. i have a loos guage and used to tune my old c27. the wire is much bigger on the c34 so if anybody can supply me with the proper tension for both upper, lower and backstay tension i would greatly appreciate it. i checked past posts but couldn't find the needed info. thanks for all replys...jeff kaplan "sedona sunset".

well, # 219, sedona sunset,  is almost ready to launch. another miserable weekend up here in the n.e. so we're postponed till after memorial day. got diesel started today. had heat exchanger worked on and had air block so engine overheated but resolved that problem by adding more antifreeze, twice. runs great now, but my question is about the hot water temp. out of the faucet when the engine is running. after about 20 minutes of running to make sure all was ok, i stated the water pressure system and opened up the hot water  faucet but  the water was anything but hot. it was much warmer than the cold water, but not hot at all. as this is my first experience with hot water on board, my c27 didn't have a water heater, i don't know what to expect. i'm sure when under shorepower, the water should get hot,  by the way i turned up the setting on the heater to over 150, what temp. should i expect to get just on coolant going thru the water heater? all comments will be greatly appreciated. i can't wait to get my boat finally into the water to enjoy my first full season.

another project that i am contemplating, is to replace the 4 fixed ports in the main salon. the smoked ports in hull#219 are crazed, and new ones will make the cabin look new, along with my new teak/holly sole that i am in the process of finishing, which will be posted later ,after the snow is gone and i can get onboard to install. my question is where to get the ports, catalina or another source, and how to remove old and install new. all info will be greatly appreciated. thanks...jeff kaplan

please see my last post  in my teak/holly post . i meant to post it as a new post but did it as a reply. also, when people ask me why i stick with catalinas, one of the best reasons i give is ,because of this website. good people sharing great advise. thanks again...jeff kaplan

i took up the old sole on my 1986 #219 because it has deteriorated. the lumber yards in the ma. area all stock 1/4, 1/2 and 3/4" teak holly ply but not the needed 3/8". can anybody suggest a source on the east coast where i can order 3/8". i have a mill to do the cut. i called catalina  for info and they have a ca. company called h&h who did the original flooring. i called them but they weren't eager to do the cut, plus i would have to ship the old sole across the country so they could use it as a template. any info would be greatly appreciated. thanks and happy newyear...jeff kaplan

i forgot to list in my previous post that my boat didn't come with an oil pressure guage. the guage panel had 4 guages. seems like an oil pressure guage is something that should be installed. looks like it can be installed just aft of the guage panel in cockpit combing. electric or manual type? any comments would be appreciated. thanks...jeff kaplan

as posted before, i bought a 1986 c34 #219, have sailed her  for a month and have been quite pleased with her speed,comfort and stability. a few questions i would like to address pertaining to where i can get several parts,other than thru catalina, unless their the best bet. i noticed that the foward opening port on the star. side in main cabin leaks in the rain and soaks the cushion below. looks like the gasket needs to be replaced, where can i order them? also the anchor bow rollers need replacing, any ideas? the sinks  drains very slowly and when i inspected the area both sinks drain into a common tee, than out. looks like a y barbed fitting would drain much better than going thru tee fitting, comments? lastly, i will be replacing the main sail soon, full batten or std. batten setup? also where is the best place to get catalina stock sails. i am a cruiser not a racer. the boat has lazy jacks. all suggestions will be greatly appreciated. thanks...jeff kaplan

just bought 1986 c34, tall rig, shoal draft. excellent cond. Shaffer furling system and new 135% head sail 2 years old. 1,300 hrs. on diesel, runs great. looking for ideas to refinish stairs going down to cabin, varnish,polyurethane,neither? has a slight odor from holding tank and locker that houses hoses.any suggestions main section of cabin floor needs to be replaced along with piece in front of galley, call catalina or take to area mill? any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. moved up from c27 which i had for 11 years. quite a difference. thanks...jeff