Hey all, I am planning to install flexible solar panels on my dodger. I feel like I understand all I need to do. It will be a quasi-permanent installation to begin with. Seeking advice on best way to run the wires. Thinking I would just feed them thru the starboard port under the dodger, repurpose the outlet on the locker to run through there. Trying to avoid punching holes as much as possible....
My question is this: does anyone know how I can best run the wire from there to the batteries under the starboard settee? If I can get them under the sink, I'm home free. Thoughts?
Rob
Salt Whistle
2003 #1651
Ok, I believe I found the path from the aft locker to the batteries — it follows the aft water tank hose which I can access through the locker.
Now, any advice on best way to push the 10 guage solar wire along the 4 to 5' where the water hose runs. There seems to be enough space where it enters below the locker.
Ideas?
Installing solar on your dodger, not your Bimini? You may end-up with a lot of shading issues from sail and boom.
No bimini, at least not yet. Dodger isn't optimal, but they won't be permanently installed so I can reposition if need at anchor.
Problem solved. There's a straight, clear shot from the aft water tank hose through to under the bottom drawer in galley. Easy...
Rob : I installed a small Beckson port on the starboard vertical in the cockpit opposite of the wheel. I installed a wire from the batteries to power my Garmin chart plotter. When I anchor I put up a flexible panel on the top of the Bimini (tied down) and recharge the batteries.
A thought
Rob - I did use the same tunnel for my install and have had no problems. However, mine starts on the bimini and goes in near the starboard back-stay. One very good piece of advice I received was to install a power post at the entry, I used Sea Choice, and a power post at the battery. Then when you pull the panel or want to add a second, you can just tie onto the power post. I have a short run from the MPPT charge controller to a fuse block I also installed.
If you are using a Victron MPPT, you may check their site as some of these are far more efficient with two panels into the charge controller.
Just a thought.
Bill
For whatever it is worth, about 10 years ago I devised a different approach to installing a solar panel on a C-34. I wanted it to: (1) be well out of the way, (2) not involve brackets, (3) utilize a rigid solar panel, which is less expensive and more efficient than flexible panels, and (4) be rather unobtrusive and aesthetically acceptable.
After much thought I finally decided to take advantage of the C-34's split backstay. I drilled four 1/4" diameter holes in the solar panel's aluminum frame - one each near the S&P corners of the forward edge, and two about 2 ft apart centered on the aft edge. I then used SS cable clamps to clamp & bolt the aft edge of the frame to the S&P split backstays, secured two SS eye bolts with SS lock nuts to the S&P holes on the side corners of the front of the aluminum frame, attached two more SS cable clamps about two feet above the first pair, and finally two more three feet below the first pair. I then used 3/16" diameter white Dacron line (to minimize long term UV degradation), to tie a tight bowline with 2 half hitches just above the upper starboard cable clamp, down to the starboard eye, through the eye three times (to intentionally increase friction) and then just below the lower cable clamp on the starboard split backstay. I then repeated the process on the port split backstay.
The final result is a 100 W rigid solar panel about 10 ft above the cockpit sole! It is utterly out of the way. The total cost for 2 SS eye bolts, 14 lock nuts and 6 cable clamps cost about $30. By adjusting the position of the lower cable clamps, you can wind up with the solar panel perpendicular to the plane of the split backstays. This provides four additional benefits: (a) birds do not like to stand (or poop!) on it because of the slope, (b) rain washes the panel clear, and (c) it is very stable (we have sailed in 40+ knot winds and have experienced 70 knot winds on our mooring with exactly ZERO damage, and (d) while not optimal for all latitudes the resulting angle is favorable for solar exposure.
Over the past 10 years, with a $50 charge controller connected to the solar panel, our 3 group 31 "house" batteries, and one group 31 "engine" battery are regularly at 13.4 volts on our mooring. When we go cruising - for as long as two weeks - with the refrigeration on 24/7 the batteries never go below 12 volts unless it is very heavily overcast for two days running, at which point we use the engine to top them off. The installation is best done using a 10 ft tall "A" shape ladder with the legs placed on the S&P cockpit benches while on the hard. A helper is also very useful.
Aesthetically, it is almost impossible to even see the solar panel unless one intentionally looks up. It is well above the boom so solar panel output is not affected by shadowing and does not interfere with the leach of the mainsail when tacking or gybing. Best of all Nancy says "that was without a doubt THE BEST improvement we have ever made to Pleiades.
Dr. Paul Jacobs
Pleiades
1990 C34 Mk 1.5
Paul
IIRC isnt your split unusually high and fortunately allowed you do configure your panel where some (many?, most?) unfortunately can't?
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,10912.0.html
Quote from: KWKloeber on August 29, 2022, 04:32:49 PM
Paul
IIRC isnt your split unusually high and fortunately allowed you do configure your panel where some (many?, most?) unfortunately can't?
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,10912.0.html
That's true, Ken, although many of us have raised our splits because OEMs were a "head-knocker." Many of us also installed tensioners at the same time.
Ironically, although the original post on this subject involved where to run the wire from a solar panel, I didn't mention that in my earlier response.
The wire from the solar panel that is mounted on the split backstay initially runs down the starboard backstay. It is held in place with nylon wire-ties, at roughly one every foot. The wire then enters through a small hole - with a rubber compression seal - in the forward-face of the starboard aft coaming, around the starboard lazarette (taking care to secure it to the inner hull with Velcro sticky back tabs, to avoid snagging the wire when pulling out fenders), then forward under the quarterberth to the small solar panel controller, which is mounted near the refrigeration compressor, under the galley stove, under the ice chest / refrigerator and finally into the battery compartment under the aft portion of the starboard settee.
Yes, it is a somewhat tortured path that was a bit of a pain in the derriere to do initially, but the wire has been in place for 10 years with no problems whatsoever.
Paul Jacobs
Pleiades
1990 MK 1.5
Could you post a pic?
Thanks, Paul
I would be happy to send a photo, but I do not know how to do that on this site.
Paul
Paul,
from the 101 Topics, right near the top:
Posting and RESIZING Photos 101 http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3701.0.html
iPhone Photo Flipping 101 https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,11199.0.html
There is a picture of Paul's set up somewhere on this board. I recall seeing it in another thread when he sung the praises of his solar rig. Sadly, this isn't much help without the link.
Quote
post a pic?
See my reply (#9) to this thread.
Quote from: waughoo on August 30, 2022, 09:25:01 PM
There is a picture of Paul's set up somewhere on this board. I recall seeing it in another thread when he sung the praises of his solar rig. Sadly, this isn't much help without the link.
Floks, we have some reading comprehension issues here.
Here's a link to Paul's photos from an earlier post right here in this very thread. C'mon...
Quote from: KWKloeber on August 29, 2022, 04:32:49 PM
Paul
IIRC isnt your split unusually high and fortunately allowed you do configure your panel where some (many?, most?) unfortunately can't?
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,10912.0.html
Doh!!! Thanks Stu :abd: