Messages

While were on this topic of 'water' do you happen to know where rain water is coming in and settling in the 'dimple' aft of the P bracket?  I always find water pooled there in the spring until I get the cockpit enclosure up, and keep thinking it's the emergency rudder cover as I can't see anywhere else that would let that much water in.

First season with Shamrock had that.  Changed the emergency rudder cover O-ring and resealed hatch.  Problem solved. Was able to get O-ring at local hardware store. Also covered the cover with white nonskid tape.  Cooler and of course less slipping.
While you're at it, I recommend you hook up your emergency rudder.  Best to have any bugs worked out before an actual steering failure.   
Jim

I go over the engine every spring and make sure the hose clamps are snug. Never an issue during the season.  It's about 2 cups.

Is the coolant low in the expansion (recovery) tank or in the engine itself? If it's the expansion tank look for a crack in the plastic tank, may have to remove it to get a good look.  If it's the engine pressure check like Ken said.  It's an easy test.  May not be so easy to find.
Jim   

Noah,  Is your prop painted or just that clean?
Jim

I am planning to have the bottom painted in a few weeks at a new to me yard. They prep the running gear by sanding it and then only applying a Zinc coat spray similar to Pettit Barnacle Buster. They are not applying a epoxy primer nor any bottom paint. I am on the Gulf Coast in Florida a very high fouling area.
All other yards I contacted sand blast the running gear, then epoxy prime the shaft, strut and prop. They then apply a hard bottom paint such as Trinidad. So, I am concerned that only applying a Zinc coat may not be sufficient to properly protect all of the running gear. Any opinions??

You haven't mentioned zinc anodes.  I think that would be a must.  But then bottom protection is a regional thing, every place has its own problems to protect from.
Jim

or stand on my toes to look over it.

When it's crowded or close docking I stand on the aft seats, that way I can see right to the bow.  Even if I'm carrying my dinghy up there.
Lot's of ways to get the job done.
Jim

I replaced the dodger 5 seasons ago, was told that Strataglas was the preferred, and more expensive, material.  It has held up well and is still as clear as new, but it does have some scratches.  I've been on boats with the stiff polycarbonate.  It is nice but is very stiff and more difficult to handle. I was told it's very hard to sew. I will consider it if I ever need to replace the Strataglas on the windshield over the cutouts for the lines.
I think you need to evaluate the canvas on the dodger.  If it's very good, that is several seasons left, Strataglas or the polycarbonate, if it's worn, only a couple of seasons left, go with the less expensive.
That's my 2cents,
Jim
Another thought, On hot days it's nice to open up the center window and enjoy the breeze.  You may want to consider adding that to canvas fix.

I would try ammonia and a good rinse.  Try it on a small area first.  Don't be surprised by a dull surface afterwards, it's the wax that was striped. Will need a good buffing after.
Finish First has quite a following in our club.  The first application is a little tricky but after that it's a wipe on product.  I haven't gone to this, but am considering.
https://finishfirstpolish.com/product-category/marine/
Jim

I installed one on my previous boat, the head had no ventilation, that was 25 years ago I'm sure the batteries work better now.  I was happy with the solar vent for this application.
I don't think yours is original.  Was added or a dorade vent was replaced with the solar vent. 
If the plastic housing is in good shape it may be worth it to disassemble the unit and replace the batteries.  They may be soldered in.
Hope that helps,
Jim
 

My mast is deck stepped with a compression post(2001 mkII).

So is Shamrock.  Don't remember exactly where, but I do remember seeing somewhere on Shamrock's mast information is etched into the aluminum, at least the hull number, I think more.
Jim

Pete,
I've had good and easy results using plastic wall anchors in situations like this.  Another way was to use a dab of epoxy putty, the stuff that comes in 2 colors to be kneaded together, on the back side of the hole and redrill for the existing screws.
On a separate note, when reinstalling self taping screws it's good to start with screwing in the wrong direction, when you feel where the threads pass the start, sort of a click, then turn the right direction.  The purpose is to put the screw into the threads that have already been made and not make a second thread.
Hope that helps,
Jim 
Here is just one brand.  It's easy to find in most hardware stores or Amazon.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-All-Purpose-2-oz-Epoxy-Putty-1999131/206156392?irgwc=1&cm_mmc=afl-ir-2003851-1420157-bing&clickid=z47XqZSf3xyPWL4X4a3bUUkeUkHWAOV0EWnR280

The coolant in the bilge is there in the spring after winter.  None in the bilge during the season.  I've asked around and apparently its a known issue.  I guess over the hard winters the hoses/engine contract, and you get a small drip.  Over 6 months, and it being non freezing fluid it accumulates.

I go over the engine every spring and make sure the hose clamps are snug. Never an issue during the season.  It's about 2 cups.

Shamrock, a 2001, in 20 seasons has never lost any coolant into the bilge, summer or winter (that's Erie Pa winters).  2 cups isn't much, but it isn't normal.  If it were me, I'd look for the leak before it got to be a real problem.  Possible a crack in the expansion tank.  Does the cooling system hold pressure?
Jim

Rather than enlarging the holes have you considered opening up the scuppers, it's fairly common on other makes of boats. Cutting 45 degree angles into the scupper railing to the bottom of the hole would do it. That eliminates clogs and drains the deck much more quickly. You'd have to finish the cut ends of course but you'll have to do that to the enlarged holes as well.

That's the way my MKll is made.  I like the idea of drilling out the holes and installing a short pipe/tube to drain the water away from the hull.  That should reduce the black streaks from deck water running down the hull.  Somewhere that idea is posted here.  If you use a hole saw it's best to plug the old hole with a wood plug before drilling so the pilot drill on the hole saw works and the hole saw doesn't walk.
Hope that helps,
Jim

Thanks to everyone.  I should have know that information would be here.  Good information and a fine start for me.
Jim

I've been thinking about batteries and electrical use.  I'm starting an energy audit, that is a list of my 12 volt power users and their amp/hour draw. 
Has anyone done an energy audit?  If so please share and please share how you arrived at your numbers.
As I'm most concerned about use at anchor my list will include LED anchor light, fridge, Keurig coffee maker, cabin fans, possibly Engel freezer and more as I think about it.
Thanks,
Jim

I am looking into new sails

The sailmaker should need the P and E (luft and foot) measurements to quote a sail.  If it's a local loft they should measure the actual dimensions of the boat.  If not I'd recommend you take the measurements and not depend on factory or what somebody else's boat uses.  Never can tell what has happened over the years.  It's easy to do, all you need is a 50 foot tape measure.
Jim