Recent posts
#1
Main Message Board / Re: Change water pump?
Last post by pbyrne - Today at 02:40:29 PMQuote from: Ron Hill on Today at 02:07:08 PMpby : I make a small wad of toilet paper and stuff it in the bottom weep hole of the Sherwood. Run the engine a bit and then check that wad for wetness. Also check around the hoses leading to and from the Sherwood
A few thoughts
Will do! As always thank you Ron. I'm assuming this weeping hole is there to alert you to something that needs fixed?
#2
Main Message Board / Re: Single reefing point good ...
Last post by pbyrne - Today at 02:39:16 PMQuote from: Ron Hill on Today at 02:18:08 PMpby : From what I've seen of reefing point: The believe the sail maker puts a single reef point higher up in the main sail than when he puts in two reefing points!!
Personally I've never had to use the top reef point because the bottom one does the job, but like I mentioned I believe it is lower than where a single reef point would be. I sail with a 150% jib, but with the Garhauer movable genoa cars I can roller in some of that 150% and it still holds its shape.
A few thoughts
I didn't know that about a single reefed main! I assumed that the single point is the same as when there is 2 points. Huh.
Yeah, that's the problem I have with the genoa. It's sail shape isn't great when reefed, and I find the boat is comfortable around 15-20kts with the main reefed and the genoa around 90-110%? Fully unfurled the boat heels too much for comfort to weather when gusting over 20kts. Or it does for us!
#3
Main Message Board / Re: Epic sailing photos!!
Last post by Noah - Today at 02:28:50 PMI assume you have fixed the topping lift? ;-)
#4
Main Message Board / Re: Single reefing point good ...
Last post by Ron Hill - Today at 02:18:08 PMpby : From what I've seen of reefing point: The believe the sail maker puts a single reef point higher up in the main sail than when he puts in two reefing points!!
Personally I've never had to use the top reef point because the bottom one does the job, but like I mentioned I believe it is lower than where a single reef point would be. I sail with a 150% jib, but with the Garhauer movable genoa cars I can roller in some of that 150% and it still holds its shape.
A few thoughts
Personally I've never had to use the top reef point because the bottom one does the job, but like I mentioned I believe it is lower than where a single reef point would be. I sail with a 150% jib, but with the Garhauer movable genoa cars I can roller in some of that 150% and it still holds its shape.
A few thoughts
#5
Main Message Board / Re: Change water pump?
Last post by Ron Hill - Today at 02:07:08 PMpby : I make a small wad of toilet paper and stuff it in the bottom weep hole of the Sherwood. Run the engine a bit and then check that wad for wetness. Also check around the hoses leading to and from the Sherwood
A few thoughts
A few thoughts
#6
Main Message Board / Re: Epic sailing photos!!
Last post by High Current - Today at 01:27:38 PMCarver's harbor, Vinalhaven, ME last summer - my second voyage in the Catalina.
#7
Main Message Board / Re: Shaft log repair/replace
Last post by High Current - Today at 01:06:06 PMI just posted about similar findings:
(https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,11983.0.html)
If you look at my pictures, the rectangular cracks in the fairing around the log suggest the original may have been pre-glassed into a larger rectangular assembly.
I'm no fiberglass expert, but I would think sandwiching it in layers of fiberglass that are appropriately tapered into the hull above and below would be much more robust than simply boring it out and gluing in a new one, and probably easier in the end too.
My other suggestion would be to put the shaft back in and shim it so it's centered relative to what's left of the tube. Assuming you have the cutlass bearing out, you'll also have to shim it so it's properly centered in the strut as well. Re-align the motor based on the proper shaft position. You can then use the motor, strut, and shaft to achieve correct alignment when installing the new tube.
Also take a good hard look at your strut with a magnifying glass to make sure you don't have the kind of corrosion / fracture mine had. If you were that far out of alignment, it could've seen some stress.
(https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,11983.0.html)
If you look at my pictures, the rectangular cracks in the fairing around the log suggest the original may have been pre-glassed into a larger rectangular assembly.
I'm no fiberglass expert, but I would think sandwiching it in layers of fiberglass that are appropriately tapered into the hull above and below would be much more robust than simply boring it out and gluing in a new one, and probably easier in the end too.
My other suggestion would be to put the shaft back in and shim it so it's centered relative to what's left of the tube. Assuming you have the cutlass bearing out, you'll also have to shim it so it's properly centered in the strut as well. Re-align the motor based on the proper shaft position. You can then use the motor, strut, and shaft to achieve correct alignment when installing the new tube.
Also take a good hard look at your strut with a magnifying glass to make sure you don't have the kind of corrosion / fracture mine had. If you were that far out of alignment, it could've seen some stress.
#8
Main Message Board / Horror stories of struts and s...
Last post by High Current - Today at 12:39:05 PMStories to keep you awake at night 
When I bought my boat a year ago, I noted some small cracks in the paint on the prop strut. I sanded it away and found some hairline cracks, as well as some "pinking" in the metal. The cutlass bearing had a tiny amount of play. I put it on my to-do list but didn't end up getting to it last spring. During the course of the summer, I also found a couple of the motor mount bolts had vibrated loose. But as far as I could tell without separating the coupling (which was rusted / frozen on), alignment seemed OK. Engine shake was no worse in gear than at idle, although that's not saying anything. Fortunately, I sailed all summer without any major issues.
With magnification:
At haul out, the cracks had resurfaced through the new paint and the cutlass bearing was totally shot, so no more putting it off (not that I planned to). I ordered a new strut from CD, new motor mounts, and set about removing the old shaft, which I had also decided to replace. That's when the fun really began.
Pulling the stuffing box, I discovered the shaft was nearly resting on the bottom of the log, even while mated to the transmission and seemingly in alignment - likely because the worn cutlass bearing allowed it to sag (and also: likely the cause of the worn bearing). It called to mind justinsteele's post a couple of months ago where the bottom of his shaft log was totally worn away. I was lucky, and mine appears intact.
However, some cracks in the fairing on the underside of the hull mean it must have seen some stress / vibration and I'm in for some grinding and/or fiberglass repairs to make sure it's still firmly attached.
The shaft coupler was, of course, frozen on. After exhausting all other options, a sawzall and some cutting fluid made short of work of it. My advice: if you know you're not saving the shaft, don't even bother trying to get it off the regular way.
Next up: getting the shaft out. The issue was clearing the rudder. I had read that one can get the shaft out without dropping the rudder if the cutlass bearing is removed, but I didn't have a strut-pro. The new strut has the bearing pre-installed, so as long as the shaft is installed before the strut there will be no need for fancy tools. Worst case I could have pulled out the sawzall again, but I hoped maybe the wear would be enough to let me sneak it past. No such luck, but when I pulled on it I could see the strut's crack widening! A couple of good heaves later it split wide open and I could slide the shaft out easily
There's nothing like the feeling of vindication after you've already decided to fix something...
When I bought my boat a year ago, I noted some small cracks in the paint on the prop strut. I sanded it away and found some hairline cracks, as well as some "pinking" in the metal. The cutlass bearing had a tiny amount of play. I put it on my to-do list but didn't end up getting to it last spring. During the course of the summer, I also found a couple of the motor mount bolts had vibrated loose. But as far as I could tell without separating the coupling (which was rusted / frozen on), alignment seemed OK. Engine shake was no worse in gear than at idle, although that's not saying anything. Fortunately, I sailed all summer without any major issues.
With magnification:
At haul out, the cracks had resurfaced through the new paint and the cutlass bearing was totally shot, so no more putting it off (not that I planned to). I ordered a new strut from CD, new motor mounts, and set about removing the old shaft, which I had also decided to replace. That's when the fun really began.
Pulling the stuffing box, I discovered the shaft was nearly resting on the bottom of the log, even while mated to the transmission and seemingly in alignment - likely because the worn cutlass bearing allowed it to sag (and also: likely the cause of the worn bearing). It called to mind justinsteele's post a couple of months ago where the bottom of his shaft log was totally worn away. I was lucky, and mine appears intact.
However, some cracks in the fairing on the underside of the hull mean it must have seen some stress / vibration and I'm in for some grinding and/or fiberglass repairs to make sure it's still firmly attached.
The shaft coupler was, of course, frozen on. After exhausting all other options, a sawzall and some cutting fluid made short of work of it. My advice: if you know you're not saving the shaft, don't even bother trying to get it off the regular way.
Next up: getting the shaft out. The issue was clearing the rudder. I had read that one can get the shaft out without dropping the rudder if the cutlass bearing is removed, but I didn't have a strut-pro. The new strut has the bearing pre-installed, so as long as the shaft is installed before the strut there will be no need for fancy tools. Worst case I could have pulled out the sawzall again, but I hoped maybe the wear would be enough to let me sneak it past. No such luck, but when I pulled on it I could see the strut's crack widening! A couple of good heaves later it split wide open and I could slide the shaft out easily
There's nothing like the feeling of vindication after you've already decided to fix something...
#9
Main Message Board / Re: Shower issue
Last post by KWKloeber - Today at 10:05:25 AMMore info
It it cycling on/off very second, continuously?
Or what do you mean - mainly off, but ON for only a second? Or mainly ON but off for a second?
Different symptoms mean different problems.
Is the other pump on the potable water manifold or for the drain?
It it cycling on/off very second, continuously?
Or what do you mean - mainly off, but ON for only a second? Or mainly ON but off for a second?
Different symptoms mean different problems.
Is the other pump on the potable water manifold or for the drain?
#10
Main Message Board / Re: Adjust the cable tension f...
Last post by LogoFreak - Today at 08:53:23 AMReplaced my steering cables with 1/4" dyneema, so much cleaner setup. Super easy to do!