Messages

I'm in the process of rewiring the mast and notice the existing cable from the wind transducer was not routed through the conduit.  I will be replacing it.  Should it ideally be routed through the conduit or is there a potential interference issue with the electrical wires?
Thanks,
  Bryan

Adding new sails this year and I want to protect my investment.  The spreaders were previously taped and had a tendency to chafe and eventually rip the 150 genoa.

From experience, which type of spreader boots do you prefer and why?

Rubber ones.  https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=taylor-made-rubber-spreader-boots&path=-1|118|2358491|2358503&id=1004624
The sewn on leather kind.  https://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/1344/spreader-boot-kit-leather-c-250-cp-26-c-270-c-28-c-30-c-310-c-34-c-36-c-400.cfm
The wrap around fabric kind. https://www.westmarine.com/buy/taylor-made--spreader-boots--P002_065_007_507

BTW, my mast is down so I can easily sew new ones on if that is the limiting factor.

Thanks,
  Bryan

No but I found them on a recent google search as they were selling pretty cheap on eBay.  Started following on Facebook and searched reviews online.  Couldn't find anything negative, so I am still considering.

FYI - FX Sails is doing 15% off until Nov 15.  They are the least expensive I have found IF price is your main consideration.  I have read good things about them on this forum and others.  For a few hundred more I find National to be a great choice too.  When neither are running a sale they are pretty close in price.  I plan on purchasing a new main and genoa soon.

Bryan

Thanks for the tips and pics.  Some nice options.  I do have a dodger and plenty of butyl from mainesail.  I guess what I will do is purchase the clutch and play around with what works best.
B

I am considering adding a triple clutch to the port side cabin top, where my boat currently has nothing other than a winch and a cleat.  A few questions for those that might have done this?  Do I need a pad for the cabin top, similar to the teak one on the starboard side, or can I mount directly on the top?  Also, do I need any sort of backing plate below?

My intended use is for Jib halyard, Spare jib halyard, Boom topping lift.

I found this one post where it looks like they were mounted to the top - http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8607.msg61003.html#msg61003

Thanks,
  Bryan

Quick update on this.  I installed the new ignition switch and that seemed to fix the issue with the starting.  I have had no issues in 3 weekends. 

Bryan

Ken,
   I'm not sure about the "S" wire terminal.  What I found was 2 ring terminals on one post (pretty sure one was battery power, thicker red cable) and then a flat terminal connector on another one (maybe "S" ?) both facing forward and somewhat under the alternator.  I am assuming that was the solenoid of the starter.  Admittedly, multiple assumptions being made here.  In any event I cleaned the rings and unseated\re-seated the flat.

   I have a separate key and start button.  I hold the key in the spring loaded temp position for 30 secs then back off to the start position, then hit the start button.

  Understood that the solenoid does nothing to help starting problems and I agree that you are just buying yourself 20 seconds.  I also get the fact that you are introducing more failure points.  The potential of a low battery is not a huge concern as I do have a portable start battery with jumpers aboard and we rarely use any juice (no overnights yet, no refrig, no inverter).  My logic, FWIW, is that if the engine is cold and we are sailing there are times when I need the engine to get me out of a bit of trouble - stalled on a tack or needing to give way fast in close quarters, etc.  Then, if it doesn't start, repeating the same sequence (thinking i didn't wait on the glow plugs long enough).  So, I guess I was looking at it as a fairly easy and cheap upgrade for a pressure relief.  More psychological than anything.  Also, makes it easier for the admiral to start her if needed.

  I do already have the instrument panel with the voltmeter.

  Of course I saw your relay idea, in the tech wiki, after I purchased the solenoid.     Actually, I saw it before, but it makes more sense now that you walked me through it.  Maybe I will rethink my approach now.

One question while I have your attention.  After holding the key in the temp position, and consistently at about the 25 sec mark, there is an audible click at the instrument panel itself, almost like a notification that the plugs are warmed up.  I haven't read anything about this.  Is this anything that you are aware of?  I'm definitely not imagining it.

Thanks,
  Bryan

Ken,
  I apologize but I missed this post, as I didn't realize that it had content directed to me in it.  I just found it after I searched on "solenoid 10awg" and stumbled on it via dumb luck.  I had read the solenoid upgrade post, and was having trouble locating some #8 wire so I wanted to see if anyone used #10.  TBT, I was looking for a cheaper way out as I would have to purchase some lug crimpers as well.  Searching around Amazon I may be able to get some prebuilt short cables (18") with lugs but I want to measure to see if they would be adequate length.  My plan is to use the heat exchanger bolt for attaching\grounding the new solenoid.

Backstory:  I cleaned the connectors at the starter and ground.  They didn't look corroded but i did so anyhow.  I don't think that took care of my problem as it still happened again, however the engine then turned right over when I slightly jiggled the key back to the temp position.  Being 30 years old I figured it wouldn't hurt to replace the ignition switch.  I got the one through Catalina direct with the rubber boot, Sea Dog brand I believe.  I went that route because I wanted to make sure it fit and was the right fit, the first time.  I plan to install this weekend.

I also decided to do the Solenoid upgrade and purchased the Wells F496 that Stu had recommended in the post.  I have yet to install and still need to get the #8 wiring.

My engine is the M25XP.  I'm fairly certain that no wiring upgrades have ever been made.  My plan is to replace the ignition switch and see if that takes care of the issue.  If not I will take lots of pics as requested.  I have been behind the panel and while original it looks fairly clean (not a rats nest) with no visible corrosion at the switches.

To answer your question my electrical skills don't go much beyond a high school electronics class.  That being said I have already replaced the bilge pump and wired in float switch and manual\auto fused control switch.  I also wired in a solar panel and battery controller and installed a few bus strips in the battery compartment.  Also, changed my glow plugs 2 seasons ago.  I now know where the starter and engine ground is after cleaning the ends.  So, little by little I'm learning my way and overcoming my fears to step into it a little deeper.  Everything I have done has come from research and tips on this forum.

Bryan

Big F'n hammer?

The foot bolt is definitely undersized but the M10 didn't fit so I still need to drill out the alternator a bit to get it in.  In the interim I will take the belt and tension off, utilizing the play in the existing bolt, to see if I can manually move the alt pulley into a parallel position (verified by straight edge).  If so then that solves one part of the riddle.

Understood.  I will take another look.

Ron,
  Exactly, and therein lies the problem.  If the alternator bracket could move aft then the straight edge would be flush against it's pulley.  However, there`s no way it can move aft.
Bryan

K,
  I'm not sure exactly what you mean.  I laid the straight edge flat on the outside of the crank pulley and angled up toward the alternator pulley.  The top pic is where the straight edge hits the alternator pulley. So, from the straight edge, the outside of crank pulley is at least 1/8" closer to the engine than the inside edge of the alternator pulley.
Bryan

Regarding starting issues - I cleaned ground to engine and and then power wires to starter.  I've test started a few times since then.  So far, so good, but the jury is still out.  Regarding letting the key go, If I do that nothing ever happens when I push the start button.  I need to push it before the spring backs off on it.

Regarding the alternator, I put a straight edge on it over the weekend.  Between that difference and difference in pulley thickness I believe it would have to go back about .2 inches.  I can't see how that is possible.  Pics are attached.  The last pic is a closeup of the alternator pulley and how the belt appears askew.

Bryan

I apologize but apparently I wasn't receiving updates that there have been replies.  Thanks everyone for the input.

Here's an update -

I went to change the belt and for the life of me couldn't get the alternator to pivot.  As a result I was forced to remove the pivot bolt and drop the alternator to get the old belt off.  What I found was that the boatyard, just prior to me purchasing, installed a too small belt of 40".  This turned out to be a good thing though as it forced me to stop being a wimp (no exp working on engines) and just take the darn thing off.  What I found was what you all have been hypothesizing - it looks like I have the SAE bolt.  For the time being I reinstalled it with a Gates 7410 belt.  The alternator now easily pivots out and just shy of the door.  There is a lot of side to side play though, so I picked up an M10 100mm bolt and will install this weekend.  With the undersized belt the alternator was jammed against the engine and probably cocked a bit due to the bolt size so that could explain a lot of the misalignment.  It looks better with the new belt but I want to get the new bolt in before I report back.

Note:  I want to do the straight edge test but it looks to me that the pulley on the alternator is thicker than the pulley on on the engine.  So, I imagine I will need to account for that offset, meaning that the straight edge perfectly flat against both pulleys would mean out of alignment by the difference in thickness.  Right?

I have been also experiencing an issue this season where I have been hitting the start button, after 20-25 sec glow plug warming, and just get a click down below.  No chug chug of the engine turning over like usual.  If I go through the sequence 2 or 3 times more she then turns over.  Didn't do this last season.  Based on my research here I will start by assessing\cleaning the ground wire on the engine after I drop the alternator to change the bolt.  It should be more easily accessible without the alternator in the way.  I also read where the starter might need cleaning but I will start with the wiring assessment and move from there.

Thanks again everyone!  You all, and this site, as usual are invaluable.

Bryan