Messages

The wires to my ST4000 motor run from the control unit into the pedestal guard via the hole in the back of the enclosure and exit from the guard about 1/2 down the starboard side of the guard and hence to the motor.  Because the motor end has a large connector, the wire has to be threaded starting at the motor end.

Jim:
There is a good deal of information on this board and on the C34.ORG site about spinnakers.  You can get it all by doing a FIND on the board and a search on the website.  Once you have the sail, you will have a great deal of fun with it plus some scary times as well.

Where is the water under the cushion?   I had water under the cushion is the area under the pedestal - along the very after end of the cushion.  After a good deal of investigation, I found that the water was coming through the base of the pedestal guard by running down the outside of stainless steel guard tubes.  Removing the pedestal guard tubes from the two bases, applying some sealant (a liberal amount) in each and reseating the guards fixed the problem.

Welcome to the unigue world of Catalina's wring agreeing with the diagram in the manuals <smile>. I found the only way to understand what is correct to what was to trace out all the wiring. I would start with the windlass warning light which get it power from the windlass circut breaker.

Ron:  All good points â€" change the oil often etc.  As for the gearbox being warm, I found that by chance after sailing in neutral for about 2 hours.  I was check to make sure the prop had feathered â€" was the shaft turning?  The shaft was not warm only the gearbox. Just my 2 cents.

If you sail with you gearbox in neutral, I suggest that you check the temperature of the gearbox (with your fingers will do).  You will find it get warm to hot after you have been sailing for a few hours.   Do not know if that does any damage, but I worry about things that get hot.  Even with a feathering Prop, I have learned to always sail with the gearbox in reverse to prevent to prop from un-feathering for any reason.

Gene:

It depends what type of line you use to replace them â€" similar to what come from Catalina (lowest cost) or a high tech low stretch (highest costs). I have replaced all my halyards with T-900 10mm that I got on sale from Sailnet â€" regular price is about 2.50 per foot.  I have found that Defender pricing for Samson line to be very competitive.  I replaced all my sheets â€" main and jib â€" with Samson Ultra-tech 3/8".

As you can see the sky can be the limit.

Rich & Stacy:

Come join us and sail in perhaps one of the best sailing venue in the World.  You will find any type of sailing you might desire in the Bay and the surrounding waters.

I have had good success with an ST-4000 unit that is interfaced to my instrument system via SeaTalk for wind direction and boat speed and NEMA for GPS and waypoint data. I installed the ST-4000 after my Autohelm drive stopped working.  The installation was a little difficult because the ST-4000 drive unit is not mechanical "plug" compatible with the older Autohelm unit.  Finally I needed help from Raymarine (they were very responsive) in setting the various parameters to make the directional control stable..

Might it not be easier to set up under E-bay as they already have to processes for buying and seeling stuff.  I have no idea how one sets up a "C34 store" within e-bay or how it operates.   just my 2 cents.

Ray

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I agree with Dave - talk to Guido.  Cars are available in a number of forms - more than shown on their web site. I would suggest the lowest profile available - E-Z G-2UB with the block shown in E-Z G-3 is the combination they recommended to me.

I have a set to install but first have to move my track forward about 18" (or get a longer track) to allow the car to come forward enough for my 130% sail - yes, the sail does like the car that far forward.

Jeff:

You can replace the Autohelm 4000 control unit with a Raymarine ST 4000 control unit.  The Raymarine ST 4000 works with your existing Autohelm drive unit and Autohelm compass â€" mine did.  You can find more details on the Raymarine web site â€" use search in their customer support / find answer section.    The part number for the control unit (you also get a compass) is A12009.

I have the same arrangement on Crews Nest as Stu have.  It works very well.  The idea is to get a better angle (in front of the wheel) with the furling line and reduce the friction by using a block.   Using a winch on the furling line can break things as they apply considerable force without one being aware of it..

OK  - I am going to play Stu.  Try a search on "keel bolts".  It will tell you lots including all I know about this problem.

Because the dealer usually installs the autopilot during the commissioning process, the compasses are not mounted in the same place on all boats.  Mine (Mk II #1383) is in the locker under the settee forward of the holding tank on the port side.     Happy hunting.