Messages

Cool, thanks.

And do we have to bleed the HE after zinc replacement??? (is it possible to bleed the HE?)

Paul

Reading lots of info about changing the Heat Exchanger Zinc, but unable to find anything that indicates if much water is going to come out of the heat exchanger and if there is any need to bleed the system after?

I can see where the zinc is located. It's on the underside of the Heat Exchanger.

I understand that it's raw sea water that will come out, but how much? I presume the Raw Water shut off should be closed when removing the zinc.

Paul

Noah, I had thought about that, but it's co-incidental as I want to move the Garmin Echo sounder from it's current position so that it's not hidden by the wheel and the new GMI20 also is to be mounted at the helm, so a new instrument platform is my way to go.

When this job is complete, I'll be able to remove the original 'POD' that currently holds Standard Horizon wind and speed gauges.

Plan is to put a 3/4" Starboard shelf in front of the pedestal guard and make it look priddy, with the 741xs GPS, GMI20 and Garmin echo sounder all easily reached without having to risk putting our hands through the wheel spokes, and an LED puck light under the shelf to illuminate the Cockpit Table.

Paul

Getting there.

Setup the system at home, transducer outside on a pole and NMEA network in the kitchen, then powered it up using a 12v converter left over from old electronics equipment.

Was able to put the transducer on the mast head. That was fun Here's a link to my blog with pics and a 360 video from up there.

Connected the network and instrument loosely on the boat, the system works great. I did not have to fiddle about with the orientation of the WSI box.

Then started on the prep for the new instrument shelf at the helm.

The Garmin 741xs was mounted too close to the compass. We had over 5 degrees of deviation between when the GPS was in it's mount compared to the GPS being removed. So I'm moving it further forwards away from the compass.

That means I have to modify the wiring layout as they are too short to reach. The good news is that there is plenty of slack cable down below in the aft berth area. I had to remove the silicone caulk bungs that kept the cockpit core dry, replacing them with BlueSea Cable Clamps.

Hope to have that work completed Saturday Morning.

Then time to install the NMEA network.

This is a fun project despite the blistered fingers from climbing the mast and the several pounds of dripping sweat working on the cockpit floor to fix the cables.

Paul

The bottom step of the swim ladder is below the waterline by a few inches.

That's a huge problem for getting back in the boat (I'm pretty flexible 66yrold, but it's a challenge to get a foot up to that bottom rung if in the water.

So, I'm installing a telescoping 4 step ladder on to the existing swim ladder.

May get that done this weekend too.

Paul

Task: Install Garmin gWind Wireless Transducer at the mast head, install WSI, GND10 and GMI20 instrument at the helm, install Garmin NMEA 2000 network to connect everything to the Garmin GPS 741xs

Step 1: Make sure I have everything I need.
Did that. I built the system from all the components at home so I'm certain I have the bit and pieces needed.

Step 2: Test the system on the boat.
Basically I'm going to rebuild the system on the boat with the gWind transducer on the deck (after letting it charge up in the Sun)

Step 3: Mount the gWind Transducer on the mast head.
This will be the first time I've been up the mast. So not sure what I'm going to find.

Found this pic in the forum


Is that what I can expect at the masthead - a sheet of plastic?

I have to secure the transducer mounting plate on the masthead facing forwards.
FYI, the wireless transducer is quite large! The 'pole' is about 18" long.

Any suggestions on how to attach the mounting bracket to the masthead?

Thanks.

Paul

I think the transom on the 34 may be a little taller. The distance from the top step of the swim ladder to the top of the transom appears slightly longer than in your pics.

There was basically no way that Peggy could step over the joining tube and down to the top of the swim ladder, hence the thought of adding an extra step.
But once the tube was removed it became a non-issue.

I'll take pics on Saturday, that's when we're going to do the new instrument work which includes a new layout of the instruments at the helm.

Paul

Ken, BTW, when I cut the tube out, I cut it pretty close to the welds in the vertical tubes. ie. I could not have cut out a longer piece of tube!

I'll take pics of the 'caps', they really work out well, no rough edges to rip bare legs climbing into the boat.

The cut out tube could easily have a bimini fitting at one end to attach to a hinge, and the other end could be cut to be close to the other tube and then filled with JB Weld, drilled out and pinned with a quick release pin in a hole drilled through the vertical tube.

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:)

Paul

Paul

Our pushpit rails feel just fine as I (6' 180lb) climb up into the boat grabbing the rails.

Peggy (Admiral) noted that there is nothing to lean back on while sat at the helm except the swim ladder that is not 'fixed' in the up position so it gives a bit.

I was thinking of a cushion clipped to the uppermost step of the raised swim ladder

and adding a swim ladder latch similar to that on the C250


That would have the advantage of being able to lower the swim ladder if in the water.





Paul

The good news.

Over the weekend, in preparation for making and installing an extra step between the top of the swim ladder and the top of the transom, I had cut out the horizontal tube that connects the port and stbd pushpit rails. I also used white JBWeld to form a nice smooth end of the now open tubes.

Last night, we went down to the boat to mark up the transom for the new step. When I climbed over the transom without having to climb over that removed tube, it was a piece of cake! So I had the Admiral climb out of the cockpit and down the swim ladder - Easy! Climb back in - Easy! In fact, her head is just below the top of the bimini and she can easily step up onto the aft seat from the swim ladder.

No additional step required!
So this weekend I can concentrate on installing the new Garmin gWind Transducer, Instrument and NMEA 2000 network. (new thread)

Paul

Slightly confused (or more, easily done  )

When discussing the 'coupling' are we talking about the flange that connects the transmission to the shaft.

And the key should be visible looking forwards along the shaft into the 'coupling'

And in this instance, the shaft had failed inside the 'coupling'

Add that inspection to my list 



Paul

Thanks Guys! That'll give me extra time for other projects 

Paul

I'm about to install an extra step on the transom between the top step of the folding ladder and the top of the transom.

(I need to get the appropriate length bolts)

Anyone know the approximate thickness of the transom in that area and whether it's solid or cored?
(I need to know if I have to drill/cleanout/resin/redrill/countersink or just drill & countersink in order to estimate the time it will take.)

Thanks.

Paul

I'm Way to close to being a total newbie on these engines: But this is the kind of thing that helps me learn what I need. So thanks for posting.

Comparing it to my engine (M25XP) it's far too clean!

The metal bracket holding the lower end of the Alternator is totally different, mine is a single bar.

The metal tube that is connecting the hose just above the crank wheel pulley(?) looks wrong.

I'm freaky about hoses being able to rub against each other on an engine that vibrates quite a bit.

Not wrong, but the hatch to the engine compartment in the Aft berth is huge compared to ours (1987) which barely provides room to get to the sump dipstick (still haven't found the transmission dispstick, have to get my caving gear on and get back down the crawl space under the aft berth.)

Paul

During the purchase Survey, it was pointed out that there is play in the rudder. My definition - not a lot, but I looked into the options.

Catalina Direct has this


http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/2791_754/rudder-bearing-epoxy-repair-kit.cfm

Paul