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Thanks Ken.

DUH!

 

I think that also answers my last question about the Torque setting for the Hex Cap Screws that hold the plate in place.

Paul

I know this topic is nearly 4 years old but still relevant.

I have my new damper plate and it fits. However Took a bit of Googling, but I think I found the correct torque for the Hex Cap Screws that secure the damper plate to the flywheel.

The screws are    "298458   M5 x 12 Cap screw Din 912"

I found one resource indicating that the torque should be 10Nm.

I'll have to get a torque wrench for that. I have a digital torque driver up to 6Nm and a larger one but not 10Nm.

Just wondered if anyone could confirm the 10Nm Torque setting.

Paul

I'm working on replacing the Damper plate on my 1987 C34 M25-XP, I have no info about any previous replacment.

My very well respected mechanic that is very familiar with C34's and Universal Engines - suggested that the noise made by the engine in a range of RPM is probably the damper plate. He also commented on how it should be changed out about every 1500 hours - we have over 6000 hours on our engine.

I have downloaded the Parts Manual for the M25XP engine but I do not see how the flywheel is attached to the crankshaft.

It's not that I need to remove the flywheel, I'm just curious about it. Anyone know how the flywheel is attached to the crankshaft  - drawings or pictures would be a bonus.

TIA

Strataglass comes with brand name stickers and an instruction sheet. I buy the glass in packs of 5 sheets, so that's five stickers and five instruction sheets - every customer gets one. The instructions are really clear. Use water and Imar products.

Ok, we have EarTec headsets 'Marriage Savers'

We tried hand signals. I would tap my head to indicate we need to shift to neutral. So picture this. I'm on the bow, holding the anchor chain in place and barely holding it against the movement of the boat under idle power forward. I tap my head with one hand, holding the chain with the other - nothing - I would have to turn around to look at the cockpit to see if the Admiral had seen my signal - I do have a slender body, but can you twist your body while holding on to the chain will all your might single handed? So I tap my head again - nothing - Now I'm beating my damned head and now it's time to shout 'NEUTRAL' OK is the reply and pressure on the chain eases. I lock off the chain and signal for go astern in order to drag the anchor out of the mud. Tap my head - nothing - the boat is now dragging the anchor and the strain on the chain is too much for me to unlock the chain from the cleat = Tap my head again. Now I'm thinking, perhaps I need a hard hat!


I go online and order the Eartecs - No more shouting and no need for a hard hat. Oh, I have replaced the ear muffs several times and on my 3 set of batteries.  We always have two fully charged batteries at the ready.   

I have replaced the vinyl on several dodgers, always used Strataglass 40 until one customer wanted to use a cheaper solution. Didn't work out. After delivering the completed dodger and side windows, they, correctly, complained that the glass was wrinkled - I thought they meant the glass was not laying flat, unusual but could happen. That was not the issue, there were tiny 'wrinkles' in the glass, just slight imperfections, it looked as though they were looking through water.  I could not see it in my shop. They up-paid for Strataglass and I replaced the wrinkly glass. They have been cruising in the Bahamas for over a year now, no complaints.  ( I ate the cost of the replacement work ) Now I only use Strataglass. Just did 8 rollup replacements on a Trawler.

Looks like a PO thing to me that's obviously a replacement electrical panel. Before I started digging around behind the panel I'd flip that switch on then turn everything on then flip it off and see what happens.

Did that, nothing!
I'm planning on a complete panel replacement. The area currently consists of 3 different pieces looks horrible and the nightmare behind them is cause for more. Long term project.

I found this in a MackSails video
https://youtu.be/DYa1AKO9JiM?si=xrWMwlSsMC-BnjYz

It's really really difficult to get a good view of the wiring behind this switch. I have no clew what it's for. ( Red arrow points to it )
1987 C34 Mk 1 Tall Rig fin Keel.

Paul

As I said, "yes."
No pics.

I simply moved up the gooseneck bracket (it mounts differently than yours.)   
If it gives you enough lift maybe use the top holes as the new bottom holes?

My boom had leeway as well and I shortened it a tad to help keep it from hitting on the angled-down connecting awning.

I like that idea Ken. I had our new sail made in 2016, they were supposed to cut the sail so that the aft end of the boom was raised by 6in. Not sure if they did that. The bolt on the end of the boom does touch the front edge of the bimini. But as you state, the boom is longer than needed. I could cut a few inches off of the boom and that would solve the problem that I share with the OP. However, that would also move the topping lift nearer to the mast and thus contact the sail more than it currently does.   I have seen a SS support bracket that mounts on the end of the boom which lifts the lower end of the topping lift about 10" higher and that would solve the issue.   Any idea of the name of that bracket? I believe that it's normally a component of a stack pack.

Result!

Ok, went down to the boat, added Anti-Freeze via a funnel inserted into the Coolant fill port. The oil floated to the top and drained out of the overflow and into a capture jug. I spent about 15 minutes adding AF very slowly so that the surface of the oil could drain down the overflow tube.

When done, there was not even a consistent oil surface and it was obvious, looking at the overflow container, that about a 1/4 - 1/2 cup of oil was removed, it floated to the top of the container and measured about 1/8" inch thick. So I consider this a success.

Thanks everyone.  I'll be doing a full coolant flush in the next few weeks.

Paul

Did not know that Ron!

Thanks.

Good idea Ken.

Paul

Thanks Jim,

agreed, it's time.

Paul

Thanks Ken.

I'll check out those options. Always value your input.

Paul