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#1
Main Message Board / Re: ? Sudden overheating?
Last post by Schulcb - Today at 08:03:34 AMAfter removing the S wire from the gauge, the resistance from the S wire to the panel ground (checked using the G post on the temp gauge) IS 970 ohms. Checking the resistance at the sender again (cold this AM) is 900 ohms.
When the gauge started displaying inaccurate readings it was sporatic with it going from "pinned" high to reading normal. Then the frequency diminished until it always reads >240.
This morning with the engine cool, when I engerize the panel the gauge reads ~170'F.
Not sure it this tells you anything...
Thanks,
Craig
When the gauge started displaying inaccurate readings it was sporatic with it going from "pinned" high to reading normal. Then the frequency diminished until it always reads >240.
This morning with the engine cool, when I engerize the panel the gauge reads ~170'F.
Not sure it this tells you anything...
Thanks,
Craig
#2
Main Message Board / Re: engine room sound insulati...
Last post by Ron Hill - Today at 06:01:06 AMGuys : I had to "work at it", but I got the 1 1/4" because it gives greater deadening of the sound!! BTW, I only used screws & washers!!
A thought
A thought
#3
Main Message Board / Re: ? Sudden overheating?
Last post by KWKloeber - Yesterday at 11:39:18 PMWhen the gauge goes high, is the engine cover closed?
Do you have foil insulation on it **(terminal shorting out)**
(see Ron's previous warning about that!!)
If it is not already, insulate the temp sender terminal with a small BlueSea terminal cap.
You measured the sender (said it was 435 ohms -- so no, the sender itself appears to not be shorted out.)
Remove the S wire from the gauge. Check the resistance from that wire to panel ground.
It **should** read the same as the temp sender resistance
Do you have foil insulation on it **(terminal shorting out)**
(see Ron's previous warning about that!!)
If it is not already, insulate the temp sender terminal with a small BlueSea terminal cap.
Quote from: Schulcb on Yesterday at 05:45:19 PMI to G terminals is 12.5V.It APPEARS that the gauge is OK
No wire on the "S" terminal, gauge rests below 120'F.
"S" and "G" terminals are connected, gauge reads >240'F.
Quoteresistance of the sender is 435 ohms at 97'F.That APPEARS reasonable for that temp. That was with the S wire disconnected from the sender correct?
QuoteI ran a new wire directly from the sender to the "S" on the gauge. Gauge still shows >240'F.What #3 refers to is: "If you short out the terminal on the sender, the gauge will (**should**) read >240.
Based on #3 on the troubleshooting guide, is the sender shorted (0 ohms)?
You measured the sender (said it was 435 ohms -- so no, the sender itself appears to not be shorted out.)
QuoteI don't think they are around any longer.Along with nearly all other manufacturers (Guest, Ancor, etc, etc,) Teleflex gauges have been gobbled up by SeaStar Marine. I doubt they can help much beyond what is in the troubleshooting steps.
Remove the S wire from the gauge. Check the resistance from that wire to panel ground.
It **should** read the same as the temp sender resistance
#4
Main Message Board / Re: Oil/temp warning
Last post by KWKloeber - Yesterday at 10:57:59 PMQuote from: dclintonbaker on Yesterday at 09:21:16 PMthanks for your continuing interest Ken.
Oil switch is an open circuit with the engine off and closed circuit with the engine running.
My current project is the reconnect all of the leads from the engine to the harness that runs aft to the instrument panel.
@d
Did your mechanic do any troubleshooting (before or after replacing the switch and alarm)?
Your switch is operating correctly. (The closed switch when you have oil pressure is supposed to power the fuel pump.)
With the key switch on, check the voltage at both switch terminals to ground.
Then we are going to take the switch out of the equation so we can test with the engine off (no oil pressure):
Make up a short male-to-male jumper
(or get a male-to-male adapter at the auto parts)
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-disconnect-interior-adapter-assortment-85412/22141457-p
Jumper together the two terminals.
Tape it so it can't short out to the engine.
There should be TWO wires on one of the terminals, so check around to ensure there's nothing loose.
Something appears to be abnormal on your harness because there **should** be a third wire (probably blue) running from the switch (your yellow terminal) to the alternator EXCITE terminal.With the switch terminals jumpered and key on, listen for the fuel pump clicking.
Does the alarm sound? Faint or loud?
Report back!
The harness should have two wires on one terminal (red/white and ?blue?)
#5
Main Message Board / Re: Oil/temp warning
Last post by dclintonbaker - Yesterday at 09:21:16 PMthanks for your continuing interest Ken.
Oil switch is an open circuit with the engine off and closed circuit with the engine running.
My current project is the reconnect all of the leads from the engine to the harness that runs aft to the instrument panel.
Oil switch is an open circuit with the engine off and closed circuit with the engine running.
My current project is the reconnect all of the leads from the engine to the harness that runs aft to the instrument panel.
#6
Main Message Board / Re: ? Sudden overheating?
Last post by Schulcb - Yesterday at 05:45:19 PMNow with nicer weather, I've gone through the Teleflex trouble shooting guide.
Here are my findings following the steps on pg 348:
1. voltage from I to G terminals is 12.5V. No wire on the "S" terminal, gauge rests below 120'F. "S" and "G" terminals are connected, gauge reads >240'F.
2. resistance of the sender is 435 ohms at 97'F.
I cut back the sender wire at the sender to ensure "bright" copper and crimped a new marine ring terminal.
I checked the bus bar connections within the navpod housing, all looked to be in good condition. Gauge still rests at >240'F.
I ran a new wire directly from the sender to the "S" on the gauge. Gauge still shows >240'F.
Based on #3 on the trouble shooting guide, is the sender shorted (0 ohms)?
Not sure where to go from here. Any advice would be appreciated.
I'll try to call the Teleflex number on Monday, but I can't find them on the internet, so I don't think they are around any longer.
Thanks,
Craig
Here are my findings following the steps on pg 348:
1. voltage from I to G terminals is 12.5V. No wire on the "S" terminal, gauge rests below 120'F. "S" and "G" terminals are connected, gauge reads >240'F.
2. resistance of the sender is 435 ohms at 97'F.
I cut back the sender wire at the sender to ensure "bright" copper and crimped a new marine ring terminal.
I checked the bus bar connections within the navpod housing, all looked to be in good condition. Gauge still rests at >240'F.
I ran a new wire directly from the sender to the "S" on the gauge. Gauge still shows >240'F.
Based on #3 on the trouble shooting guide, is the sender shorted (0 ohms)?
Not sure where to go from here. Any advice would be appreciated.
I'll try to call the Teleflex number on Monday, but I can't find them on the internet, so I don't think they are around any longer.
Thanks,
Craig
#7
Main Message Board / Re: engine room sound insulati...
Last post by Noah - Yesterday at 01:23:38 PMWhether you use the spray glue or sticky back insulation product, you should ALSO USE screws and washers. Also, I disagree with Ron regarding 1-1/4 inch thick. You will have difficulty fitting that thick of insulation in several locations inside the box—particularly on the removable stairs and opening door next to the alternator.
#8
Main Message Board / Re: engine room sound insulati...
Last post by Ron Hill - Yesterday at 12:41:03 PMGuys : I used screws with washers to in stall mine. Also I installed the 1 1/4 thick!!
A thought
A thought
#9
Main Message Board / Re: What's under the stern lad...
Last post by MarknCat - Yesterday at 12:17:31 PM
#10
Main Message Board / Re: What's under the stern lad...
Last post by MarknCat - Yesterday at 11:38:42 AMThanks. I am chasing rust stains on the stern and I believe it's coming from the ladder rivets and possible mounts. I wanted to pull the mounts to clean them and the bolts and seal with butyl tape.
Then I noticed I have an extra bolt hole, like the mount had been moved back or something. So I filled it and sealed around the mount with 4200 instead. Next time I have the back opened up I'll investigate further.
Then I noticed I have an extra bolt hole, like the mount had been moved back or something. So I filled it and sealed around the mount with 4200 instead. Next time I have the back opened up I'll investigate further.
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