Messages

Ron,

Noah is correct if you've got a leak in the aft tank that should be easy to determine. Without using it if you have to keep topping it off every few weeks or couple of months the tank is obviously leaking. If that's the case you also have another problem, the leaking tank will fill the pan that it sits in and when the boat heels the water runs to that side comes forward and leaks through the bottom of the bulkhead into the aft cabin. It's also possible if you haven't changed the cockpit drain hoses that could be the culprit, when I changed mine I don't know if they were leaking but they were badly cracked.

On the "Scag Dimple" (I actually had two) there was some really nasty standing water in mine. Using epoxy and filler I faired mine in so the bottom is smooth and any water now simply runs down to the bilge.

KWKloeber,

I've learned a lot over the years (around 50) about plastic window maintenance not just with boats but also with convertible British sportscars, their tops are basically small dodgers facing backwards. In that time I've probably tried most types of cleaners and polishes, the two step, the poly this and poly that some good, some not so much. What it comes down to maintenance wise you have two types of windows that are maintained differently "inside and outside". Outside requires nothing more than a fresh water rinse followed with a nice fluffy terrycloth wipe which will keep it smooth and clear. Inside is different because that's the opaque or yellowing originates. The first sign is the inside feels slightly tacky then it becomes sticky next opaque spots usually in the corners. At the window is shot it's just a matter of time until it's yellow. Obviously you want to shortstop this process. As soon as it feels slightly tacky it needs to be polished. What I've found most effective is Mother's Metal Polish, it goes on and comes off easy and keeps the surface smooth and clear.

Patches,

I wouldn't put another cent into that dodger, unless the PO installed it just before he sold it, it's at least 7 or 8 years old and likely older. I've had my C34 for 36 years and in that time I've replaced my dodger four times. I've never replaced a dodger because the widows went bad. In each case it was because of the sun rotted dodger cloth gets thin and brittle and it either splits or somebody puts a hand through it at that point no repair is possible. Do the math 4 into 34 (my current dodger is 2 years old) that's about 8 years per and I baby my dodgers because they are expensive. That window replacement won't be cheap and that's on a dodger that's probably approaching the end of it's service life. Just my two cents, it's your call of course.

Pete,

It's not brute force you're after you want to use the hammers to setup a vibration, it's tapping not pounding you're looking for. I wouldn't use a rubber it acts too much like a shock absorber reducing the vibration you're after and deflects a lot of force away for the offending part. A hand sledge and a smaller hammer like a ball peen should do the trick. Slow, solid blows with the sledge drives the vibration deep while rapid taps with the small hammer creates a surface vibration where most of the corrosion is likely to be found. Hand in hand with that as mentioned is liberal use of a good penetrant(I too am fond of PB Blaster). The key is to get it as deep and as much as you can and allow plenty of soak time and reapplication, the vibration will also drive it deeper into the work. Even if it goes well this is not going to be a quick job, if you get it off in a week I'd be cracking beers with high fives all around. Be patient, good luck.

Kirk,

I'm not an expert but hadn't the C34 gone to stainless steel by '91? I've got a Mk1 which came with all teak deck rails. I finally got tired of refinishing, replacing covers, and leaks and replaced it all with S/S, one of my best upgrades. It cut maintenance almost to zero, outlay for new covers also zero, and gives the boat an updated look.
On the eyebrow question I know some guys that have just removed it sealed the holes and polished it up nicely. I took it one step further, I used a 1/2" roll of striping tape where the eyebrow was. My boat has gray decks with navy trim so I used navy tape, it turned out nicely I thought and along with replacing those ghastly Beckson ports it gives the boat a nice clean look.

Rather than enlarging the holes have you considered opening up the scuppers, it's fairly common on other makes of boats. Cutting 45 degree angles into the scupper railing to the bottom of the hole would do it. That eliminates clogs and drains the deck much more quickly. You'd have to finish the cut ends of course but you'll have to do that to the enlarged holes as well.

Eric,

It was actually two projects, the rail mod which makes pass through easier (especially for dogs) and the boarding/swim platform w/modified swim ladder. I also added a shower back there. When I built the platform I had two goals; make it as big as possible, and get it as low as possible. Of course there were trade offs, the lower it was mounted the smaller it had to be and the more difficult it was to securely install. I think I hit the sweet spot with a platform that's the same height off the water and roughly three times the area as the walk though step.

Guys,

Sorry it took this long but I've been dodging rain storms and I needed an assist from my IT guy (daughter). A couple of swim platform pics and the swim ladder which is the modified original ladder plus the rail modifications.

Jon,

I built a swim platform low on the back of the transom at about the same time I did the railing mods which made the original configuration of the swim ladder unworkable. So I took the ladder to the rail guys who cut off the ladder top then added two looped hooks to attach to the platform with the loops acting as hand holds. Another advantage of this setup is the ladder sits about a foot and a half deeper in the water which makes egress from water to boat easier especially for women. Maybe I should post some pics of that too.

Eric,

I'll see if I can't beat the rain down to the boat and get some pics. Mounting location should be as far into the corner as you can get which is about equal distance from the existing two legs that makes for a solid tripod base. I think I clamped a piece of wood in place to show the rail guys where I wanted it welded in place.

Chris,

I cut mine out years ago and yes it's much more convenient. But to replace that structural support I took it (or them now) to a local stainless steel rail maker and had them add an additional leg to each side creating a tripod support for each side which is as solid as the original configuration. I'd also recommend an additional bar between top and bottom rail for additional support and while it's there have them weld caps over the cuts. If you do the R&R yourself it's not that expensive.

Aaron,

You'll probably be OK but that doesn't sound like a great idea, it'll a race against time to see if you can do the job before the temp gauge spikes. Why not rig up your own water supply, two hoses and three five gallon buckets. Lead the hoses from the intake/exhaust outlets to two buckets with the intake bucket full. As the motor runs it draws water from the intake bucket and fills the exhaust. When the exhaust is full slip the third bucket under the the exhaust and swap the intake bucket with the full bucket, repeat as necessary. Obviously you'll need someone to manage this setup while you work on the motor. A fourth full bucket might be a good idea to replace any losses during the process.

Wow, I've got the early fiberglass hatch cover(which BTW has never leaked)and I was always envious of the newer boats with the plexiglass hatch cover, not so much now!

Paulus,

I assume you're talking the one under the sink in the head and the part you want to replace is the clear plastic. I've recently replaced mine and I found the seal has been redesigned. The seal on the old bowl was cut at about 45 degrees making a leak proof seal difficult, if it wasn't tightened enough it leaked, if it was too tight the rubber O-ring slipped out and it leaked.

On the new strainer both sealing surfaces are flat so you can just screw it right down on the O-ring and get a good seal every time. I haven't seen a bowl only and I'm not sure a new bowl would fit your old unit. A complete new unit isn't that expensive or difficult to replace and is much more convenient than the old one.

David,

As Alex mentioned this thread has popped up before. It happened to me a couple years ago, same thing no exhaust water. On examination the bond between the rubber and brass had failed so the brass was spinning inside the rubber. My impeller had only a few hours on it. First time it's ever happened since I've owned my boat ('88). The thinking was possibly a different supplier. In any case it's always a good idea to have a spare and the ability and tools to change it on the water.