Messages

Phil,

What is your friend's priming problem, is he losing the prime while the motor is running or is he unable to get a prime when starting? The number one thing that causes priming problems is an air leak, it either won't allow the pump to create a prime when starting or it brake the prime while running.

Pete,

I've got an early boat too #273 and I've been using the one with the paper gasket for years, I don't think there's any difference between the impellers. You can check the inside of the cover to see if it has a "O" ring.

Tim,

Those turnbuckles are traditionally installed with screws. Pop rivets are designed for sheet metal applications the rivet expands behind the metal to hold the item in place. In fiberglass the rivet only stays in place by expanding and creating a friction hold so it can work itself out under any stress or vibration. The proper way to do it would be with a backing plate which is not an option here. If it was me I'd fill the hole with epoxy and screw the screw in while it's still wet. Also I wouldn't worry about the other pop rivets until they became a problem.

Jon,

When it looks like that you can soak it in vinegar overnight then use pipe cleaners to open it up.

Rich,

Well obviously the next step is to find out where the restriction is, it's somewhere between the fuel tank and the pump. I'd start with the tank and work your way forward, it's likely the problem either dirty fuel or fouled pickup. Well at least now you've got a spare fuel pump.

Rich,

Fuel pumps are cheap, replace it.

krafty,

You may have gotten a "boil up", diesel can get foamy if filled too fast. Think of a beer poured too fast with a big head on it, when it dissipates your glass isn't full. When fueling at the dock you should slow down the flow as you approach the top of the tank. Does somebody else fuel your boat at the the fuel dock? When you say weep hole are you talking about the over fill line that runs to the transom? Did it spill into the water? That's a BIG no-no!

I no longer fuel at the fuel dock instead I use a 6gal yellow plastic fuel container. That allows me to check the purity of the fuel and measure additives more precisely. Also to prevent the possibility of overboard spill which could result in thousands of dollars in fines I've routed that overflow line to a two gallon gas can located in the transom locker.

Well it at least explains why the batteries don't have any "grunt".

Ed,

Good call, eight years is a hell of a run you definitely got your money's worth out of those batteries. Just curious in all that time did they ever not start the motor?

Ed,

How old are the batteries? I'd take them to an auto parts store and have them load tested, at least the 12 volt. I usually use my batteries for about 3 years then replace them.

Chris,

BTW, congrats on your new to you C34, they're really nice boats.

Chris,

It looks like a common fatigue crack, they do wear out. I've have my boat since '88 and in that time I've repaired, rebuilt, and replaced my pump. If it's going to keep you up at nights then replace it otherwise I'd repair it with a washer and see how it holds up, you always have the option to replace it down the road. If you just got the boat I'm sure there are other places where that $300 will come in handy.

I don't have dance parties on the bow but people like to layout to get sun or just hang out but you can't hear the cockpit speakers on the bow. I have given some thought to bow speakers but it hasn't gotten farther than that, it would be nice though.

Aaron,

Is this something that happened suddenly, or over time, or have you just noticed it? Before doing anything else I'd check the furler, on a calm day you should be able to pull it out smoothly by hand. If the action is stiff or clicks or offers a lot of resistance you've probably found the cause.

Aaron,

I don't see an immanent danger of failure since it's just got a twist and doesn't appear fatigued but for peace of mind replacing it wouldn't be a bad idea, it looks like a standard piece of hardware.