Anyone put an access panel in seat in the head?
Not yet but it's on the plan for a small winter project. Several years ago, I put an access hatch in the wall behind the toilet seat lid. It's amazing how much space there is back there. We stowed at least 6 full size rolls of paper towel plus toilet paper for the whole summer with room to spare.
Yes, I did.
Cliff : Look in the old Mainsheet tech notes (early 1990s) and you'll find my article on extra Head Storage (w/pictures)!!!
I installed a 8" Beckson port under the teak seat in the head and another Door/frame the same size as the factory door (toilet paper holder compartment). That new door is behind the head seat - I used a small plastic waste basket as a liner/holder inside that door!!
Guys, there are all kind of C34 modifications made over the years in the Mainsheet tech notes. However, you have to read them and then decide if you want to copy them on your boat!?! :thumb:
I see that Noah has read my article - good for him!!
A few thoughts
Nice Noah. Your access hatch behind the head is much more attractive than mine but I imagine function is the same. The space back there is amazing. The Beckson Plate on the shower seat is next.
I added an 8" Beckson earlier this year. Lots of project ideas in the Tech WIKI also.
Thanks
will read them
Guys : I also made a cutout on the opposite side (starboard) of the boat. Behind the Aft cabin seat cushion - I store light line in bundles. Used a similar trim like that used behind the salon back cushions!! Extra storage :thumb:
A thought
I like the Beckson on the shower seat. Does it just facilitate access to the space below? I can get in there thru the door under the head sink, but this looks WAY easier.
It gives easy access to the area under the seat, and better access to the shower sump/drain pump. To keep stuff under the seat from sliding into the pump/motor and seacocks I added a removable divider.
Jon : It looks like you or a PO put a strainer in the shower sump line that I recommended (Mainsheet tech note article) many years ago!!
Good for you :clap
That strainer keep all the junk from clogging up the one way valve that stops the water from back flowing up the drain. You'd be surprised how much stuff that strainer catches!!
A thought :thumb:
Can you point me to where I can find such a strainer?
That would save me some digging time.
Roland
The strainer in my photo is a Jabsco Pumpgard In-Line 20 mesh strainer PN 36200-0000 (3/4" in/out hose barbs) that I purchased from a local San Diego marine store a few years ago. There's also a 46400-0000 with a different shape and a 40 mesh strainer available.
Check your local marine store, or a search of the 36200-0000 on-line shows it's available on Amazon, Defender, Fisheries Supply, Go2Marine, West Marine, etc...
Thank you Jon!
I would think the coarser 20 mesh should be adequate in preventing pump issues.
Has that been your experience or would you recommend the 40 mesh?
Roland
For this application I believe the 20 mesh is fine. It's purpose is to keep the big stuff like hair from entering the pump. There shouldn't be much else in the shower drain. Others may feel different.
Here's an idea that I use.
When I replaced the Engine Raw Water Filter I purchased 3 of them. The 2nd is used for our Air Conditioner Raw Water and the 3rd is a spare.
If we ever had an issue with the Engine Raw Water Filter housing, I have 2 that I can use to quickly replace it.
Paul
Jon : That Jabsco Strainer comes with the course #20 filter. I was the one who recommended that the finer #40 replace it just so it would add extra protection for the pump. Wanted to make darn sure there was no back flow of the shower drain water!! Easy to clean (hair & fuzzywasies).
I did the same fine mesh for the fresh water filter under the galley sink - just extra protection for that pump!!
A few thoughts
The Jabsco Pumpgard In-Line strainer PN 36200-0000 (3/4" in/out hose barbs) comes with a 20 mesh strainer (coarse).
A 40 mesh strainer is the finer screen. Do you mean that you suggested replacing the coarse 20 mesh SST screen with the finer 40 mesh SST screen?
Jon : You are correct. I got the numbers of the course and fine filters mixed up - which I corrected. Sorry About That !! :?
The only course mesh filter I use is on the raw water. Just thought the fine mesh would continually clog up so let the raw water strainer with the course filter.
My mistake!
No worries. I filter water into and out of the tanks, so not too concerned about debris other than hair.
Since the raw water strainer has come up a couple times now, I removed the raw water strainer that was attached to the sea cock and replaced it with a Vetus FTR140/16 mounted on the bulkhead close to the water line height. It has a larger surface area that is easier to clean out, no loads applied to the sea cock from loosening/tightening to clean the screen, straight shot to unclog the thru hull if needed, and because of the transparent removable top I can quickly and easily do a visual check for debris and the flow strength of the raw water going to the HX. While in there I added a 12" LED strip light to help my old eyes :D. (The photo's are before I installed the "hump" hose).
PO added double doors behind toilet. Amazing how much space is available. I like the holes for ventilation.
Jon, can you provide a few more pics of that water strainer (Vetus FTR140/16 ) that looks like a really good solution.
If our Raw Water intake is blocked (baggy, grass, etc) I have to disconnect the hose that connects to the thru hull and use a rod to clean anything from the intake. Your solution appears to setup such that you only have to take the lid off of the strainer and use a rod to clear. I'm guessing that the strainer is high enough that very little water overflows when the lid is removed (assuming the thru hull to be opened)
Paul.
Paul : I caulked a round bronze strainer to the hull outside - of the raw water intake. NEVER had a eel grass, hydrilla problem stoppage again.
A thought
Hi Paul, I don't have any other photos. That's pretty much the setup, but I can take some Monday if it would help. What do you want to see?
After unscrewing the transparent lid, it is a straight shot thru the strainer, hose, seacock, to the outside of the boat. The "WL" on the bulkhead shown in the photo identifies the Water Line. I wanted to keep a flooded suction without overflow, but I installed the strainer a little too low so do get some overflow with the seacock open. Very small amount of water, and I can always close the seacock. Another option is to change the inlet hose to one that's an inch longer. I believe this is a much better raw water strainer and setup than the OEM version with the smaller strainer mounted directly to the seacock.
Noah- Did that door behind your toilet come with hinges? I just purchased 2 of the 12" from SeaTeak, and no hinges or latches. Wondering if I now need to router this frame and door to get hinges and catches on it.
No hinges included. I bought hinges from Defender and my second set from Amazon. No router work required. Just make sure the "offset" matches your door. They make both 3/8 and 1/2 in.
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=2071223
Ah thank you. I would think the offset would be measurement "E" in the photo. Oddly, these are advertised as 1/2" offset, but the E measurement is listed as 3/8". I am feeling a little dumb here.