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#1
Main Message Board / Re: Shore Power Circuit Breake...
Last post by Noah - Today at 05:19:31 PMNot to throw shade, but for safety, I would put a "protective cover" on the backside of your distribution panel on the AC side!
#2
Main Message Board / Re: Shore Power Circuit Breake...
Last post by Tom Patterson - Today at 04:29:56 PMThanks for all input and suggestions, and especially the one about taking photos of the front and back of the panel. What I assumed was simply the ON/OFF switch for the AC power is actually a single pole, 30 amp circuit breaker. And the push-on/push-off switch for the water heater is a 20 amp breaker. Pictures of the front and back of the panel are below.
KWKloeber- the issue with the shore power is that the GFI trips on the outlet at the light pole trips every time we plug in the boat. We ran a couple of small fans for several hours off the outlets on the light pole, so I know they're okay. The pigtail we're using has a blue LED that lights up when power is present. Plugging in the Smartcord doesn't trip the GFI, and the blue LED remains on, so I assume the cord is good. There is nothing plugged in to any of the outlets on the boat. When I test for continuity between black/green, white/green, and black/white on the terminal strip, there's no short. I tested the pins on the Smartplug receptacle and got a brief reading twice yesterday. And just that quickly it stopped, and I couldn't get another reading. I removed the receptacle and all three wires are well seated, and the screws are tight. I tested the pins on the receptacle today and got no reading. Needless to say, it's very frustrating. Any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated.
KWKloeber- the issue with the shore power is that the GFI trips on the outlet at the light pole trips every time we plug in the boat. We ran a couple of small fans for several hours off the outlets on the light pole, so I know they're okay. The pigtail we're using has a blue LED that lights up when power is present. Plugging in the Smartcord doesn't trip the GFI, and the blue LED remains on, so I assume the cord is good. There is nothing plugged in to any of the outlets on the boat. When I test for continuity between black/green, white/green, and black/white on the terminal strip, there's no short. I tested the pins on the Smartplug receptacle and got a brief reading twice yesterday. And just that quickly it stopped, and I couldn't get another reading. I removed the receptacle and all three wires are well seated, and the screws are tight. I tested the pins on the receptacle today and got no reading. Needless to say, it's very frustrating. Any thoughts or suggestions would be much appreciated.
#3
Main Message Board / Re: Shore Power Circuit Breake...
Last post by KWKloeber - Today at 02:31:56 PMQuote from: Craig IllmanCTY didn't install a separate breaker (from the panel) closer to the shore power receptacle as specified in current ABYC standards.
Quote from: Ron Hillguys : It was in the 1988 production that the factory started to install a single throw, double pole 30 amp breaker with a reverse polarity light!!\
Craig/Ron,
Am I mistaken that this is an early Mk-I vintage panel like **should** be on Tom's 87?
Isn't (like my 1984 C30 panel) the "AC Master" a 2-pole, single-throw, 30-amp breaker?
Tom,
The shore power hot and neutral supply should feed to it first in line. THEN, jumper over to the HOT and NEUTRAL halves of the AC terminal strip.
Here is the replacement (it can be found for le$$$ elsewhere):
https://www.catalinadirect.com/shop-by-boat/catalina-38/electrical/breakers-switches/circuit-breaker-double-pole-30-amp-ac-master/
I have actually Mod'ed my panel and replaced it with a Blue Sea double-handle, toggled main breaker (which fits in the same space on mine but had to move the Service and RP lights location.)
#4
Main Message Board / Re: Help Please! I’m completel...
Last post by KWKloeber - Today at 01:49:56 PM@ Everyone
On EVERY Universal engine. EVERY ONE. The pump (facing it) turns CLOCKWISE, so it is easy to tell which hose barb the impeller SUCKS from (raw seawater from the thruhull) and which hose barb the impeller PUSHES through (to the Hx.)
**I have climbed the stupid tree and I own one in the backyard**!!
EDIT:
It DOES the reverse, the coolant pump SUCKS from the hose on the gear cover and pumps coolant TO the engine block and TO the Water Heater (via the hose barb on the of the freshwater coolant pump.)
On EVERY Universal engine. EVERY ONE. The pump (facing it) turns CLOCKWISE, so it is easy to tell which hose barb the impeller SUCKS from (raw seawater from the thruhull) and which hose barb the impeller PUSHES through (to the Hx.)
**I have climbed the stupid tree and I own one in the backyard**!!
EDIT:
Quote from: KeelsonGraham on Today at 12:51:16 PMI've also confused myself by thinking erroneously that the raw water pump takes water from the HX.Also, many believe that the freshwater coolant pump "pumps" from the engine, TO the hose on the front of the gear cover.
It DOES the reverse, the coolant pump SUCKS from the hose on the gear cover and pumps coolant TO the engine block and TO the Water Heater (via the hose barb on the of the freshwater coolant pump.)
#5
Main Message Board / Re: Help Please! I’m completel...
Last post by KWKloeber - Today at 01:40:05 PM@Keel
You circled the seawater SUPPLY elbow (a 1/2" NPT elbow/inlet to the PUMP) and its hose barb is 5/8" ID HOSE.
If you follow the hose (easily done) you'll see that it DOES NOT go to the Hx - it comes from the 5/8" barb on the seawater thruhull (or strainer.)
The hose from the TOP hose elbow (which is also 1/2" NPT but 7/8" ID HOSE) goes to the Hx.
I previously posted resources on this forum showing the "B engine" hose routing and it is on the wiki:
https://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Flow_directions_in_engine_cooling_hoses_(both_early_and_B-series_engines)
Cheers
Ken
You circled the seawater SUPPLY elbow (a 1/2" NPT elbow/inlet to the PUMP) and its hose barb is 5/8" ID HOSE.
If you follow the hose (easily done) you'll see that it DOES NOT go to the Hx - it comes from the 5/8" barb on the seawater thruhull (or strainer.)
The hose from the TOP hose elbow (which is also 1/2" NPT but 7/8" ID HOSE) goes to the Hx.
I previously posted resources on this forum showing the "B engine" hose routing and it is on the wiki:
https://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Flow_directions_in_engine_cooling_hoses_(both_early_and_B-series_engines)
Cheers
Ken
#6
Main Message Board / Re: Help Please! I’m completel...
Last post by Ron Hill - Today at 01:24:09 PMKeel : Look at the M35BC engine manual!!
A thought
A thought
#7
Main Message Board / Re: Shore Power Circuit Breake...
Last post by Ron Hill - Today at 01:08:56 PMguys : It was in the 1988 production that the factory started to install a single throw, double pole 30 amp breaker with a reverse polarity light!!
A thought
A thought
#8
Main Message Board / Re: Help Please! I’m completel...
Last post by KeelsonGraham - Today at 12:51:16 PMThe other one definitely has a larger ID. So it looks like I have a 5/8ths inlet and a 7/8ths outlet. Catalina Direct doesn't list any 5/8ths hose at all, so maybe that's what's confusing me. EDIT yes it does, under raw water inlet hose.
Actually, I've also confused myself by thinking erroneously that the raw water pump takes water from the HX. Which, of course it doesn't! So that 5/8th pipe must come straight from the strainer, presumably?
I think I must have hit every branch of the stupid tree when I fell out of it.
Actually, I've also confused myself by thinking erroneously that the raw water pump takes water from the HX. Which, of course it doesn't! So that 5/8th pipe must come straight from the strainer, presumably?
I think I must have hit every branch of the stupid tree when I fell out of it.
#9
Main Message Board / Re: Help Please! I’m completel...
Last post by Ron Hill - Today at 12:40:29 PMKeel : 5/8" hose is both for the inlet and the outlet. I believe that you have the inlet hose circled!!
What I did was to move the inlet hose so it is under the outlet hose. That way you can change the drive belt without having to remove a hose from the Sherwood.!!
A thought
What I did was to move the inlet hose so it is under the outlet hose. That way you can change the drive belt without having to remove a hose from the Sherwood.!!
A thought
#10
Main Message Board / Re: Help Please! I’m completel...
Last post by KeelsonGraham - Today at 12:33:49 PMThanks guys. So, it sounds like the catalog part that CD shows is actually wrong?
Am I right that the 5/8th is the outlet from the pump?
Am I right that the 5/8th is the outlet from the pump?