Blower fan

[Hugh17]

On our MK1, the blower only comes on when the key is on (and the blower switch is on).

My MK1 bilge blower works as indicated, only when the key is on. I really wonder what the Catalina engineers were thinking when they wired it this way. I additionally wonder why they located the blower in what seems to be an inaccessible place to service/replace it. And I suspect that the blower is not protected by a fuse, certainly not from the main switch panel.

Since it's my understanding that the electric fuel pump is activated when the keyed switch is turned on and since this also allows power flow to the bilge blower through it's own switch, does it harm anything to allow the switch to stay on in order to utilize the blower?

Attached pic shows blower located to aft lower side of instrument panel.

[Stu Jackson]

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Since it's my understanding that the electric fuel pump is activated when the keyed switch is turned on and since this also allows power flow to the bilge blower through it's own switch, does it harm anything to allow the switch to stay on in order to utilize the blower?

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Wouldn't the hour meter keep turning?

[Hugh17]

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Since it's my understanding that the electric fuel pump is activated when the keyed switch is turned on and since this also allows power flow to the bilge blower through it's own switch, does it harm anything to allow the switch to stay on in order to utilize the blower?

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Wouldn't the hour meter keep turning?

I would assume the meter would be running. Catalina must have thought the only time the blower was needed the engine would be running. I would like to run the blower for as long as necessary after shutting the engine off to cool down the engine compartment. It should be a simple matter to rewrite it. One more C34 mystery resolved.

[Stu Jackson]

My blower works with key out.  Always has.  Seems like it should.  Perhaps some PO rewired it.

[Noah]

My 1990 works without the key as well.

[KWKloeber]

To Hugh,

NOTHING on the engine panel, or engine harness TO the panel, or wiring BACK TO the engine is protected by a fuse. 

It's something that I've hollered and hollered about on here 'til I am blue.  I can post articles about owners who have had a fire or melted wiring, yet I can count on one hand (5 people) those I know who have listened and corrected it (not counting  complete rewires like Noah and Jon.)  AND four of those were because I fabricated new harnesses for them.

Do a search, there's ranting about it the forum!

The reason the blower is live (not thru the key switch) is so it can be run w/o the low oil pressure alarm "blatting" away.

-ken

[Hugh17]

To Hugh,

NOTHING on the engine panel, or engine harness TO the panel, or wiring BACK TO the engine is protected by a fuse. 

It's something that I've hollered and hollered about on here 'til I am blue.  I can post articles about owners who have had a fire or melted wiring, yet I can count on one hand (5 people) those I know who have listened and corrected it (not counting  complete rewires like Noah and Jon.)  AND four of those were because I fabricated new harnesses for them.

Do a search, there's ranting about it the forum!

The reason the blower is live (not thru the key switch) is so it can be run w/o the low oil pressure alarm "blatting" away.

-ken

I had already figured out that the instrucment panel was essentially direct wired. That's sad, regardless of the age of the boat. Do you know if the power wire for the instrument panel comes directy off a battery or someplace else? It would be easy to at least add an in line fuse.

[KWKloeber]

First, put your engine info in the profile or signature.   It helps us help you.   Otherwise we're guessing whether you are repowered or what engine she has.

Do you have an operator manual for the engine?  They are on the TechWiki site, under the "manuals" topic.

The harness wiring schematic is in there.  BUT whether she has had any upgrades needs to be ID'd --  like trashing the gummy bear plugs on the harness, or trashing the ammeter on the panel in favor  of the voltmeter.  Get familiar with the wiring schematic, it can be your best friend when she doesn't start.

When I do up harnesses, I use a #10awg, tinned copper, weathertight AGC fuse holder, they are tricky to locate -  I get them in bulk.

here's basic info on the harness, and see the electrical 101 on the forum topix.
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8406.msg59093.html#msg59093

-ken

[Hugh17]

First, put your engine info in the profile or signature.   It helps us help you.   Otherwise we're guessing whether you are repowered or what engine she has.

Do you have an operator manual for the engine?  They are on the TechWiki site, under the "manuals" topic.

The harness wiring schematic is in there.  BUT whether she has had any upgrades needs to be ID'd --  like trashing the gummy bear plugs on the harness, or trashing the ammeter on the panel in favor  of the voltmeter.  Get familiar with the wiring schematic, it can be your best friend when she doesn't start.

When I do up harnesses, I use a #10awg, tinned copper, weathertight AGC fuse holder, they are tricky to locate -  I get them in bulk.

here's basic info on the harness, and see the electrical 101 on the forum topix.
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8406.msg59093.html#msg59093

-ken

Ken,
I'll update the engine info in the profile, but FYI it's a M25. Originally there was a M25XP, but it was frozen up when I purchased the boat and I replaced with a used M25 with low hours. When the engine was changed out the only changed to the instrument panel area was replacement of the starter push button and replacement of the tachometer from the M25 instrument panel. This was only done because the mechanic who did the engine swap thought the tachometer wasn't working.

I have the manuals indicated but suspect the wiring diagram for the instrument panel doesn't actually match my boat. I have taken a picture of the back of the instrument panel as it is now and I reference it when comparing to the actual diagram.

The blower motor switch is wired from the tachometer connection labeled "ING 14 VOLTS DC IGNITION." I'm assuming this is why the blower power is "off" until the ignition switch in turned on. This is something I'll change by swapping the blower switch power wire from the tachometer to the power wire to the ignition switch. I'll install an inline fuse when I do this to at least isolate the blower in case of a problem.

I also want to trace the power feed to the instrument panel back to its source and install a fuse on it. I don't know if it is fed directly from the battery or from the DC panel, but it shouldn't be too hard to locate. Answering one last question, my instrument panel has a voltmeter, not an ammeter.

[KWKloeber]

James

I recommend you really get into the resources and understand what does what.   The panel schematic wouldn't be in the engine Ops Manual  because it isn't supplied by Universal.  The schematic is of the engine harness, which is what supplies power to the black box panel.  The schematic shows were the power (red #10 wire) originates.

If you haven't done the gummy bear connector and voltmeter upgrades, you are just fooling yourself if you think anything you do will seriously upgrade the electrical system to ANY WHERE it needs to be.

I have panel schematics, but after having done a number of panel refurbs and fabricating new harnesses, the panel was wired by humans, and I found usually not exactly per the schematic.   However, if you just trace out where gauges and lights get their power and which switches feed what, the panel is easy to figure out.  It's "repetitive" so to speak  -- all gauges get power the same way..

Study your resources.

I am just doing a refit to fuse an M-25XP harness, if you want one of those gizmos let me know.

cheers
-ken

[Jim Hardesty]

On our MK1, the blower only comes on when the key is on (and the blower switch is on).

Same for my MKll.  I routed the breather hose to the air cleaner box and always run the blower when motoring.  My hot oil/diesel smell has been gone for years.

Jim

[Luana]

Thanks to all the contributors to the blower fan issue.  I now have an operational fan! I appreciated the suggestion of rewiring it as it is currently connected to the ignition. I believe it was Stu who suggested a direct input into the air intake. I don't quite have a picture of that in my mind but will do some searching. Thank you all!

[Noah]

Luana- see my reply #13 in this thread:
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8858.msg63703.html#msg63703

[mark_53]

On our MK1, the blower only comes on when the key is on (and the blower switch is on).

Same for my MKll.  I routed the breather hose to the air cleaner box and always run the blower when motoring.  My hot oil/diesel smell has been gone for years.

Jim

how to you stand the squealing?  Mine makes an annoying sound.

[Hugh17]

That sounds like a dried out bushing or bearing. Time to replace the blower.