Hatch ate my slider — fix

Noah · June 18, 2018, 02:07:02 PM

Following up on my comment from thread posted on companionway squeaking http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9563.0.html:
and my recommendation that those who bought and installed plastic glide strips under their hatch runner/track—should definitely fasten them down. Mine got displaced somehow and got sucked up inside the hatch under the cover and was a pain in the ass to remove and remedy. To retrieve the slide and restore to "normal", my fix was:
1. removed wood plugs/bungs from after trim of hatch encloisure
2. unscrew and remove trim
3. dig around and capture slide with 16 inch-long lock forceps/pliers (Green Giant-sized roach clip) from Harbor Freight
4. Drill and counter sink track slightly off center line to take #8 flat head screws. Drilled countersink outside the the boat as the countersink bit would hit the hatch rails. I used a long 1/8 extension bit to pilot through countersink hole to drill into fiberglas track to pilot for screws.
5. Reinstalled trim with new wood plugs. Had to redrill for larger plugs as the old plugs were glued and holes were a bit "rough" after removing plugs with a chisel. Next step. revarnish.

Ron Hill · June 18, 2018, 02:11:01 PM

Noah : Looks like you might be better off countersinking and using flat head screws.

A thought

Noah · June 18, 2018, 02:18:52 PM

Ron, that is what I did. Those are countersunk flat heads—flush with slides. Bad photo.

KWKloeber · June 18, 2018, 03:05:17 PM

They look countersunk but oval heads?

Noah · June 18, 2018, 03:11:52 PM

FLAT HEAD COUNTERSUNK!

KWKloeber · June 18, 2018, 07:33:00 PM

Now THAT'S a CLOSE UP!

Bobg · June 18, 2018, 09:37:37 PM

Wow, lot of work, you are not the only one Noah, my starboard strip slide got bunched up but was able to grab it and pull it out, one end looked like a accordion, was able to reinstall it and it straightened out ok, haven't had a chance to secure them like you did but after reading your post, will do it for sure, and soon, thanks for the infor Noah

mark_53 · June 19, 2018, 02:02:24 AM

When I first installed mine I noticed they flexed a bit so I installed a single screw at the aft end. Glad I did now. I like the idea of a second screw to keep the material from jumping the track.

mholzmann · July 18, 2018, 12:21:52 PM

This is great stuff! Thanks for taking the time to post, photograph and explain your experience. Mine are still "free floating" but after your post and photos I am screwing mine down. Like Dr Emmet Brown once said, "well, I figured, What the Hell..."

OS2Dude · July 18, 2018, 04:57:56 PM

A Forstner bit is what I use to remove plugs. Leaves a nice round hole of the correct size and a flat bottom. Also good when drilling new holes for a bung or when drilling out a hole to fill with glass.

glennd3 · October 07, 2021, 04:34:43 PM

I am going to be removing some of the exterior teak this winter. Does anyone know what size Forstner bit I need for the plugs?

Noah · October 07, 2021, 04:44:49 PM

Glenn- before you drill them out or chisel them out, try screwing in a small screw into center if the plug. When it bottoms out on the screw below, it will pop out the plug. If that doesn't work (due to glued in or stubborn plugs) then proceed with drilling or small chisel. As far as Forstner bits size, it depends on the size plug you are using. Usual sizes are 5/16 or 3/8 for plugs on our boats.

glennd3 · October 07, 2021, 05:23:09 PM

Thanks Noah, have you removed the long teak rails that go along the main hatch? I am reading about it on the site. My issue is my sliding hatch hits/scrapes the bottom of the hatch "Hood". I need to remove the hood to remove some of the material.

Noah · October 07, 2021, 05:26:28 PM

Nope haven't had to do that. Hope not to! Good luck.

waughoo · October 07, 2021, 07:58:19 PM

Quote from: glennd3 on October 07, 2021, 05:23:09 PM
Thanks Noah, have you removed the long teak rails that go along the main hatch? I am reading about it on the site. My issue is my sliding hatch hits/scrapes the bottom of the hatch "Hood". I need to remove the hood to remove some of the material.

I had this same issue with mine. It isn't that much of a project to remove the rails to get the seahood off. I ended up having to build a small stainless piece that I screwed to the aft edge of the seahood to "re-arch" the opening to clear the interference. I also shimmed up the seahood from the aft end tapering down towards the bow. Theae two modifications allowed me to get the clearance for an effortless sliding hatch.