Alternator alignment issue

[mark_53]

I have been also experiencing an issue this season where I have been hitting the start button, after 20-25 sec glow plug warming, and just get a click down below.  No chug chug of the engine turning over like usual.  If I go through the sequence 2 or 3 times more she then turns over.  Didn't do this last season.

Definitely check your ground wire and all connections.  Also, don't press the start button while glow plugs are still heating.  It sucks a lot of juice from the battery.  Let the glow plug momentary switch go for about 3-5 seconds then hit the start button.

[NewToTheRoad]

Regarding starting issues - I cleaned ground to engine and and then power wires to starter.  I've test started a few times since then.  So far, so good, but the jury is still out.  Regarding letting the key go, If I do that nothing ever happens when I push the start button.  I need to push it before the spring backs off on it.

Regarding the alternator, I put a straight edge on it over the weekend.  Between that difference and difference in pulley thickness I believe it would have to go back about .2 inches.  I can't see how that is possible.  Pics are attached.  The last pic is a closeup of the alternator pulley and how the belt appears askew.

Bryan

[KWKloeber]

I wish you had pics of the straightedge on the crank pulley lining up to the alt pulley showing how one hits the other.

Were the two pulley faces parallel? 

The better pic looks to me that the Alt is cocked (which was my first impression, first photos.) 
If it is cocked, how much did the straightedge run out, one plane compared to the other plane (the angle between them, not the displacement fwd/aft.)

k

[NewToTheRoad]

K,
  I'm not sure exactly what you mean.  I laid the straight edge flat on the outside of the crank pulley and angled up toward the alternator pulley.  The top pic is where the straight edge hits the alternator pulley. So, from the straight edge, the outside of crank pulley is at least 1/8" closer to the engine than the inside edge of the alternator pulley.
Bryan

[Ron Hill]

Bryan : The straight edge should sit flat(both edges of the pulley) on the crank pulley and also sit flat (both edges of the pulley) on the alternator pulley.  That's perfect alignment.

A thought

[lazybone]

The alt. Bracket looks bent.  I've seen this on one other 34.

[NewToTheRoad]

Ron,
  Exactly, and therein lies the problem.  If the alternator bracket could move aft then the straight edge would be flush against it's pulley.  However, there`s no way it can move aft.
Bryan

[KWKloeber]

Bryan

The faces of both pulleys have to be parallel.
As MaineSail described you need to space out the straight edge if needed so that when it's extended from the one face to the face of the other pulley you can measure or see visually if the two faces are in parallel. It looks from the pic that they are not in parallel (the  alt is cocked).  Then measure from the spaced out straightedge to the center of each belt.  That is the offset distance, but the faces also need to be parallel.

So your straightedge hitting the other pulley doesn't mean anything unless you have already determined that the two pulleys are parallel.   ie, your pic shows the relationship at only one point (the nearest edge of the alt pulley.)  Where does the extended line fall at the other side of the pulley?

-ken

[NewToTheRoad]

Understood.  I will take another look.

[KWKloeber]

Bryan

You might not be able to move it aft. You may need to move the alt aft in relation to the bracket. Someone may have bent the bracket so that is comes closer the the belt riding correctly, than the pulleys being parallel and the alt pulley being 3/4"  in front of the crank pulley.

-k

[KWKloeber]

Bryan just to visualize what I was trying to verbalize (probably not well) I extended where the edge of the belt should fall on each pulley, and you can see that they are not in parallel.  Depending about which point stays fized and the alt gets rotated about, it may need to move aft more like 1/2 inch.

My guess is that either/or/all.

The foot bolt diameter is soo small, letting the foot be cocked in the bracket and/or the alt foot.
The bracket is bent or misaligned when it was welded.
The foot may be the wrong size for the application.

-k

[NewToTheRoad]

The foot bolt is definitely undersized but the M10 didn't fit so I still need to drill out the alternator a bit to get it in.  In the interim I will take the belt and tension off, utilizing the play in the existing bolt, to see if I can manually move the alt pulley into a parallel position (verified by straight edge).  If so then that solves one part of the riddle.

[lazybone]

Take the bracket off and straighten it with a BFH.

[NewToTheRoad]

Big F'n hammer?

[Ron Hill]

Bryan : Any machine shop that has a hydraulic press can bend that bracket.  I wouldn't try using a hammer.

Your problem is to measure and determine that angle - so you know how much to bend!!!

A thought