Oil Change--How much replacement oil do I need

[Chuck.Philips]

Finally decided to change my own oil on my 2005 C34.  I've read about what oil to use:  10w-40, Diesel Oil CF or CF-4 or CG-4.  Can anyone advise me as to how much replacement oil I need to add after draining the old oil?

Thanks

[KWKloeber]

Chuck

List your engine info in your profile info. Otherwise we're (at least I would be) guessing.

Your manuals actually list that info. Sounds like you might not have done much self maintenance?
Suggest you download all the manuals for whatever engine you have and get very familiar with them.

http://c34.org/wikiwp/
Under the "manuals" link
You may have to look at the specifications in a couple manuals, unfortunately Un/Wb is far from consistent in what info and how it's presented.

-k

[Stu Jackson]

Chuck,

You remove as much oil as you can.

Then change the filter.

You refill slowly, and keep checking, keep checking, keep checking, keep checking, keep checking, keep checking, keep checking, keep checking, keep checking the dip stick.

It's usually less than 4 quarts (946 ml).  I end up using about 3 1/2 qts.

Then I start the engine, let it run for a short time, shut it down.  Let it sit for 15 minutes, pop the dip stick, wait, reinsert dip stick (may have to clean it off with a paper towel if the level hasn't gone down by itself) and check again.  Sometimes I have to add a little bit more to make up for the oil in the new filter.  Don't overfill.

[Dave Spencer]

Chuck,
Based on your sail # you likely have an M35B engine which lists oil capacity as 4 qts / 3.8 litres on P44 of the M35B Operator's Manual. 
http://c34.org/wiki/images/0/05/200550_ed._2_universal_m3-20b_through_m-50b_operator_manual.pdf
I have the same experience as Stu and can't get all of the old oil out when I change my oil.  And like Stu, I almost always fill 3.5 quarts of new oil after an oil change. 

[KWKloeber]

Kinda strange, I have Stu's M25 and, with the filter, always use 4 qts. I could dribble in a touch more but wait until it's down on the dipstick a little.

Maybe a testimony as to sucking as I do, rather than having the dangburn hose that's in the wrong place on the oil pan? 
Or thinner oil?

-k

[Ron Hill]

Chuck : The M35B engine has the oil drain in the rear of the oil pan (unlike the M25/25XP in the front)
So if you are patient and let it drip into a low pan for awhile (after sucking most oil out) - you should be able to get nearly all 4 gts out.  Just have to be patient and have warm oil!!

A thought

[Jim Hardesty]

Chuck,
I think our engines are set-up the same.  Oil changes are easy and can be mess free.  In case you haven't noticed there is a hose connected to the oil drain and lead to the front starboard side of the engine, I hook that up to my vacuum oil extractor and suck the oil out. If you have a low enough container may be able to just let drain.  Now the oil filter, I cut a plastic container to fit under where the filter fits the engine, loosen the filter and let it drain.  Try not to get oil on the engine mount, this may take a little trial and error, I punch a couple of holes in the filter to let it drain in place.  If you do get oil on the rubber engine mount clean it up.  Also I put tape over the limber holes under the engine, if I do have a misshap can clean up without the oil getting any further.  Like everyone else the oil change takes a little less than 4 quarts.  Hope this helps, have lots of paper towels on the ready.
Jim

[Jon W]

I'm thinking about getting an oil extractor. What type and brand oil extractor do you have? Would you buy it again? Thanks for the help.

[KWKloeber]

Jon

I bought a brand name one from WM. When I was young and dumb. It crapped out after 2-3 seasons.
Then I made one and have used it ever since. That was in 1996. Pretty reliable, 'eh?

I've described it on here.  I'll try to locate the post.

-k

[Jim Hardesty]

This is what I use.  Probably better ones out there.  Not sure about plastic ones.  Would look at only 1 1/2 gal or larger.  Only the can and the hose get oil, I hang the hose up to drain the oil from the hose, empty the can into the waste oil recycling.  Thats it for clean up. 

http://www.airpoweramerica.com/Topsider-MVP-Oil-Changer-_p_13.html

Search oil extractors and oil changers, lots of choices.

Jim

[Bobg]

I use one of those cheap garden pumps on a drill, connect the hose that is connected to the oil pan to the intake, lower it a far as you can, put the discharge into a gallon jug and turn on the drill, quick clean cheap and easy.  might have to prime a new pump by putting a tiny bit of oil in the intake first, been doing it this way twice a summer for over 10 years, keep a bunch of paper towels close by just in case.  I use it to suck the oil out of the tranny too

[KWKloeber]

Jon

Here it is.....

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9554.msg72039.html#msg72039

Read that and subsequent ones.

There's a used Teel on eBay for a good price.  I'd buy it, 'cept last year I bought 3 other used Teels on eBay! The only thing I've found on those after years of abuse pumping everything from acid to contaminated water, is that occasionally I replace the impeller. All pumps are going strong motor wise.

Ken

Oh one extra note. You'll find that these type utility pumps carry a warning not to pump "fuel" (and sometimes oil.). Naturally I'd never pump gas w/ one. But diesel isn't an issue, nor is oil or tranny fluid. Regardless, a discussion on another forum went on for weeks about how dangerous it was (simply because of the mfgr warning) and "Boom!" was the typical post. The idiots could not comprehend such facts like diesel has no explosive vapor, nor that it ignites only when its temperature is raised to the flash point or putting it under extreme pressure. All they could spew forth was, "But the manufacturer says.....". They couldn't get it that there's no logical reason, it's the legal beagles who put the warning on it.

When that tact failed the next was that petroleum requires special seals, not the typical rubber.  Well, after checking, it turned out that the better seals are used in these pumps. They got shot down again.

Imonth later I was chatting with the manufacturer of a high end, multi-hundred-dollar marine utility pump, intrinsically safe and all. So I asked, "Your pump is ignition protected, has the best seals, and still you have a warning not to use it to pump engine oil. Why?"  His reply?  "Our attorneys force us to put that on. They're afraid someone will use it to pump oil on a gasoline engine without using their blower."

Oh, did I mention that the same guy who made the points how critical it was to follow the pump manufacturer warning, is the same one who, ignoring a half-dozen warnings, rigs up a Harbor Freight ATV power winch to (alone using a wireless remote) hoist himself up the mast?

[Noah]

This is what I recently bought on sale. Saw it sucessfully used by some cruisers on Youtube, so I, the non-machanic, thought I would give it a try.  I will test it next month and report back.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--manual-oil-extractor-6-5l--11047123

[Jon W]

Was it Sailing Doodles? I was looking at the 6.5 liter West Marine, a 5 liter by Moeller, and the Jabsco Handy Boy.

[KWKloeber]

Sailing Doodles?

Non-comprendo. Is that some new kind of Log Book?   WTHIT?

Spending boat bucks (better saved for various alcohols) on a single-purpose product and need to store it for 364-1/4 days of the year?  MBMC not to do that.

Not to mention something full of thick black yuck that I have to transfer to another container?  And then clean it? 
Nah. I'll stick with one-step and no clean-ups.

-k