Fresh water pump failure.

[mark_53]

What we did
1) disconnected water heater
2) connected raw water oout ---> top input of fresh water pump
3) connected lower thermostat hose ---> heat exchanger (added about a foot of hose)
4) ran low rpm 2400
Seem to do ok. Temp ran between 140 --- 170

Nice work! That work around may not have been mentioned before.  If there was a "Tips and Tricks" section, that should be added.  Thanks for sharing.

[KWKloeber]

What we did
1) disconnected water heater
2) connected raw water oout ---> top input of fresh water pump
3) connected lower thermostat hose ---> heat exchanger (added about a foot of hose)
4) ran low rpm 2400
Seem to do ok. Temp ran between 140 --- 170

Brad, another thing I'd add to the list, it to pull/check/flush the thermostat and flush the exhaust manifold.  Those won't get thoroughly flushed of salt water unless the thermostat opens (or is removed) and/or are force flushed separately thru the hose ports.

The fix got you thru a very bad situation.   

One caution I'll mention ....  is from your readings the thermostat MAY have remained closed.  In that case, injecting and removing cooling water at the two pump/thermostat nipples essentially short circuits the flow and removes the exhaust manifold from the equation.  The coolant normally circulates thru the manifold to both help cool the exhaust and prevent it from warping.  I have no idea how "tender" the faces are, but I'd keep an eye out for any sign of leakage past the exhaust manifold or exhaust flange gaskets.  Or if you notice a slow loss of engine coolant (or coolant's "sweet" odor in the exhaust) -- coolant in the manifold can short circuit at the flange gasket, enter the riser, and go out with the exhaust gas.) It might also show as exhaust gas bubbling up thru the manifold/reservoir.

ken

[Rick Roberts]

Hey Brad, wish I knew. I had an extra water pump that you could of used...