Re-Organizing Running Rigging - MK1

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Ben H.

Hi Everyone,

I'm planning on getting a dodger built soon, but first want to finish redoing the running rigging changes that the PO made. I believe he/she was trying to get everything to the aft of the cockpit, but added lots of friction in the process. So much so that something like raising the main or letting out the main sheet is difficult. Attached is a picture of the rigging. The lines are as follows:

1-2 = Jib Halyard and Spinnaker Halyard (small string run for spare jib line and tied at mast)
3 = Boom Vang (missing cam cleat...)
4 = Main Sheet (run to starboard winch)
5 = Main Halyard (run to starboard aft, rope cluntch, small winch)
6 = Starboard Traveler (run to starboard aft)
7 = Port Traveler (run to port aft)

Note: I'm fine with walking forward from the helm to adjust things. I always sail with someone else as I'm still learning. I do have an auto pilot. I'd like to get rid of some extra cheek/turning blocks and simplify line paths.

What do you see as the most practical/common setup?
Ben H.
"Happy Camper"
1989 C34 Mk I #886
Std. Rig, Wing Keel, M25XP Engine
Boat - Westport, Connecticut

Stu Jackson

Quote from: Ben H. on October 17, 2017, 10:34:14 AM


What do you see as the most practical/common setup?

The answer to that question is answered in the C34 Manual, available in the tech wiki if you don't have one.

That said, some of us have made minor adjustments over the years that have proven to be helpful.

1.  Traveler control lines:  Instead of using the cam cleats ON the cars and requiring a slit in the forward dodger window, get the cam cleats off the cars, add Garhauer roller blocks, run through grommets in the window, to bullet fiarleads and a cam cleat (solid or swiveling) on the aft end of the coach roof.

2.  If you have roller furling there is no need for the jib halyard to run aft.

3.  Run the vang to the cockpit.

4.  Mainsheet per manual.

Good luck.

Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

WTunnessen

Another traveler control line option is to re-route the lines so that they exit the track turning blocks going forward to a new block mounted on teak that redirects the line back towards the cockpit to rope clutches (or cleat), also mounted companion way teak trim.

This approach does require buying 2 new sets of blocks and clutches/cleat, but I have been very happy with the improved control I have with this configuration. Plus adding another block helps with heavier loads on the main since I have the original travel system.

There are some variations on this approach and if you search the forum you can get some different opinions.
Gaulois #579 C34 Tall Rig - CYC West River, MD

Noah

IMO- I would think hard about just screwing turning blocks into the teak due to loads. Some have done it but...
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

britinusa

Quote from: WTunnessen on October 17, 2017, 02:25:57 PM
Another traveler control line option is to re-route the lines so that they exit the track turning blocks going forward to a new block mounted on teak that redirects the line back towards the cockpit to rope clutches (or cleat), also mounted companion way teak trim.

This approach does require buying 2 new sets of blocks and clutches/cleat, but I have been very happy with the improved control I have with this configuration. Plus adding another block helps with heavier loads on the main since I have the original travel system.

There are some variations on this approach and if you search the forum you can get some different opinions.

Same mod here, love it.
Paul & Peggy
1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel - Hull # 463

See you out on the water

Engine:M25XP

Ben H.

Quote from: WTunnessen on October 17, 2017, 02:25:57 PM
Another traveler control line option is to re-route the lines so that they exit the track turning blocks going forward to a new block mounted on teak that redirects the line back towards the cockpit to rope clutches (or cleat), also mounted companion way teak trim.

This approach does require buying 2 new sets of blocks and clutches/cleat, but I have been very happy with the improved control I have with this configuration. Plus adding another block helps with heavier loads on the main since I have the original travel system.

There are some variations on this approach and if you search the forum you can get some different opinions.

Does anyone have any pictures of this setup?
Ben H.
"Happy Camper"
1989 C34 Mk I #886
Std. Rig, Wing Keel, M25XP Engine
Boat - Westport, Connecticut

Dave Spencer

Ben,
Here's a pic. Although the picture is under my post, it isn't my boat. I think it's Paul's (britinusa) picture. I set mine up this way this year and I am very happy with the results.

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8928.msg70078.html#msg70078

Dave Spencer
C34 #1279  "Good Idea"
Mk 1.5, Std Rig, Wing Keel, M35A Engine
Boat - Midland, Ontario (formerly Lion's Head)
People - London, Ontario

Noah

Ben, If you haven't already, I suggest you read the entire thread, which discusses/shows other alternatives as well as concerns about traveller line stresses/loads.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Noah

Also, friction is kinda the nature of the beast with the way our boats lead our "ropes" aft and the turning angles, sheeves, etc.  New ball bearing sheeves will help somewhat. Also consider a track system for the main. I have the Tides Strong system and it work great. I do (depending on situation and mood) hand pull/ "jump the halyard" at the mast for speed when raising, but it drops like a rock lowering.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Jon W

#9
Hi Ben, The first two photos show a modification to lead the traveler lines aft thru the dodger one of my PO's did. I believe I have the original MK 1 traveler set-up. If I had the money I'd change to the ball bearing design others have done, but mine works and I have other more pressing needs.

Also attached are starboard side showing a new triple clutch reef lines 1, 2, and main halyard. The starboard traveler line is the green line led thru the dodger to a cam cleat. You can also see I changed the double fairlead to triples on the bottom of the traveler.

Last is port side showing main sheet, vang, and spare for reef 3 when I get my new main. The port traveler line is the green line led thru the dodger to a cam cleat.
Jon W.
s/v Della Jean
Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, 35# Mantus, Std Rig
San Diego, Ca

Noah

Whoa, Jon! A NEW TRIPLE REEF MAIN!! Expecting a breeze? 8)
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Jon W

My main and headsail were either original to the boat, or mid 90's vintage and need replacing. Adding reef points is under $200. Not expecting to use it, but want it there if I get caught in something unexpected.
Jon W.
s/v Della Jean
Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, 35# Mantus, Std Rig
San Diego, Ca

Noah

Jon-who is making your new sails? I will be shopping for a new jib in the next few months. I still have some life left in my main, but my jib is pretty "shapeless".
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Jon W

#13
I used Ulman Sails on Canon on Shelter Island. I took advantage of their 20% discount for the sail they make for Catalina Direct. They came to the boat and measured everything and made a few customizations like small penant at the headsail tack. As part of getting the discount delivery is in March 2018 timeframe.
Jon W.
s/v Della Jean
Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, 35# Mantus, Std Rig
San Diego, Ca

Noah

Good folks there. They have done repair work for me in the past and installed the Tides Strong track slides on my main. Also, my dog likes their dog.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig