Stanchion Vent Drip

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

jlwoodard

Stanchion vent drip for Head at base of connection directly under stanchion.  Has anyone experienced this and how did you correct the issue?   

Ben H.

I have the same problem on my boat. I've purchased Bed-It tape from MaineSail and plan to rebed the stanchion as I believe the leak is sneaking under the plate and into the boat.
Ben H.
"Happy Camper"
1989 C34 Mk I #886
Std. Rig, Wing Keel, M25XP Engine
Boat - Westport, Connecticut

Stu Jackson

#2
Quote from: Ben H. on August 01, 2017, 07:46:48 AM
I have the same problem on my boat. I've purchased Bed-It tape from MaineSail and plan to rebed the stanchion as I believe the leak is sneaking under the plate and into the boat.

Absolutely correct.

Those two vented stanchions, one port over the nav station, one starboard over the galley are the main "culprits," because they get so heavily "used" when people board the boat.  Think about it.

Maine Sail's butyl tape is THE answer.  Great stuff.

From the "Support Maine Sail" sticky topic:

https://marinehowto.com/bed-it-tape/
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Noah

Common problem. Remove, make sure stanchion base is flat. Check deck for damage and fix with epoxy if needed.  Countersink holes in deck to give more surface for butyl to seal. Re-bed with butyl tape using a backing plate on inside. Done! Don't ever push off/on stanchion while docking boat. Something else to consider while in there: change vent to 1 in. hose and move to outside of hull at rub rail forward above holding tank. Better venting for tank. Lots written here on both subjects.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Dave Spencer

Here are two links on the subject.
First, leaks at the vented stanchion base:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7327.msg49862.html#msg49862

And second, replacing the water grade vent hose with head hose and adding a second vent (reply #17)
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6861.msg45889.html#msg45889
Dave Spencer
C34 #1279  "Good Idea"
Mk 1.5, Std Rig, Wing Keel, M35A Engine
Boat - Midland, Ontario (formerly Lion's Head)
People - London, Ontario

Roc

I would suggest changing those hoses. Based on how they look, I bet they don't smell that good! :sick
Roc - "Sea Life" 2000 MKII #1477.  Annapolis, MD

Noah

Good call. I agree. It is not sanitation hose.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Stu Jackson

I bought two rolls from Maine Sail at least four years ago, most likely more.

Here's the new unused one and the smaller one after all this time.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Noah

Got you beat. I bought four rolls when I replaced my opening ports. I will be dead before I use all of mine! :?
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

britinusa

Slightly off topic.

I noticed that the hose clamps are the old type (band thread is cut all the way through).

Having realized the issues with those types of clamps from posts here and observations on our boat, I decided to change out all of the hose clamps with the new - AWAB non perforated type. 

One of the great advantages is that all sizes have the same size screw head - which fits the tool that came with the Assortment kit. Now I can remove a clamp in seconds (important when needing to clear the Raw Water Intake Thru Hull) There are still a few of the old clamps on the boat, their time is short.

Paul
Paul & Peggy
1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel - Hull # 463

See you out on the water

Engine:M25XP

Noah

Paul- what is the "tool" you speak of?
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Ron Hill

Paul : You are correct that the "cut thru" hose clamps can & will cut into the hose material on its surface.

Years ago (Mainsheet Tech Notes) I recommended the use of the "indentation threaded" hose clamps OR cut a thin piece of leather and put it between the clamp and the hose to act a "chafe guard".

A thought 
Ron, Apache #788

Ron Hill

Guys : When rebidding the vented stanchions :
1. Cut/drill out the old rotted decking (especially the core)
2. Refill the hole with epoxy and re-drill that hole for the vent
3. Contact Garhauer and get a vented stanchion backing plate
4. Make sure the stanchion base is FLAT
5. Use the butyl rubber to bed the stanchion vent and the bolts
6. I always used a square shank Phillips screwdriver with an adjustable wrench (on the shank) to keep it from turning
7. Replace hoses as necessary.
8. Have some patients and take your time - as leaning over the Nav table is a back breaker!!!

A few thoughts  :thumb:

Ron, Apache #788

britinusa

Quote from: Noah on August 02, 2017, 07:05:16 AM
Paul- what is the "tool" you speak of?

It's a fixed Socket on a flexible shaft on a handle.

Paul
Paul & Peggy
1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel - Hull # 463

See you out on the water

Engine:M25XP

Noah

1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig