Boom End Caps

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WindyT

Hey folks!

Planning on upgrading outhaul hardware and have the screws out the end caps on the boom but these bastards are stuck!  I've been using PB blaster and a bit of heat/hammer till hearts content and haven't been able to get them off yet.  I am planning to keep grinding away but just wanted to make sure I'm not missing / hurting anything.  I've read all the prior outhaul articles etc and don't seem to be but starting to doubt myself and wanted to double check.
Thank you kindly!

WindyT
Annie C  1990 C34  Hull #1041   Charleston, SC

Ben H.

Hi WindyT,

I recently redid my boom and mast and fought with the end caps a bit too. Did all the screws come out cleanly? I had a few break off and I had to completely drill them out. Once that was done I used a punch and hammer carefully around the edge to force the cap off. (I did pretty good and only had one minor chip from hitting to close to the edge). I was also planning on replacing the worn sheaves so I hammed/pried against them as well and was able to successfully remove both caps. There was just a LOT of corrosion between the cast cap and extruded aluminum.

Best of luck.
Ben H.
"Happy Camper"
1989 C34 Mk I #886
Std. Rig, Wing Keel, M25XP Engine
Boat - Westport, Connecticut

britinusa

When I replaced our Boom end caps (both) I just drilled out the screws, it was not as though I was worried about the old caps.

Paul
Paul & Peggy
1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel - Hull # 463

See you out on the water

Engine:M25XP

Ed Shankle

Couple more comments;
- put some anti seize on the end caps and the screws when you re-install, to make it easier next time.
- if you have or are going to add a rigid boom vang, you'll should get the new goose neck end cap that doesn't rotate like the original does.

Regards,
Ed
Ed Shankle
Tail Wind #866 1989 m25xp
Salem, MA

Craig Illman

Drill out the screws and then tap the holes for hex head machine screws, possibly 1/4-20? Be generous with Lanocote or equivalent for next time.

Craig

Noah

#5
I would use round heads not hex here. Much "prettier" and less likely to cause scratching of boom using a screwdriver, than using a socket or wrench flat to the boom. They don't need to be very tight, so no need to crank on them.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Mark Sutherland

I made a simple fixture/attachment for a slide hammer.  Sorry I didn't take a picture.  I bought the c30 outhaul from CD, worked great.
Dunrobin II, 1986 C34 MK1 #170

WindyT

Good copy folks!  Thank you kindly.  I'm considering dipping the entire thing in a vat of anti-seize based on this experience.
Annie C  1990 C34  Hull #1041   Charleston, SC

KWKloeber

Quote from: Noah on July 31, 2017, 06:27:30 PM
I would use round heads not hex here. Much "prettier" and less likely to cause scratching of boom using a screwdriver, than using a socket or wrench flat to the boom. They don't need to be very tight, so no need to crank on them.

I agree on the ugliness of hex heads, but instead of Philips I would use hex DRIVE (recessed allan drive) machine screws -- they usually come in different styles -- flat, socket, and button head.  I've used all three and they work a helluvalot better than philips (which by the way is designed to slip and bung-up when stuck, rather than the head snapping off.)

k
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Mark Sutherland

Windy, I lubed the end caps with lanocote.
Dunrobin II, 1986 C34 MK1 #170

Tali

I was able to get a broad flathead screwdriver end in between the end cap and boom.  By twisting and moving the screwdriver around to where ever I could fit it I was able to pry off the end cap of course after removing the screws.