pokey engine/transmission?

[Bobg]

I use a garden pump on a drill necked down to a small see through hard plastic pipe to fit into the tranny, sucks the fluid out like right now, cheap too, to check the tranny I use a 5/16" dowel with a mark on it to copy the tranny dipstick, can see fluid much easier than that metal dipstick, and to anaisdog, no I can't rotate prop on the hard while in gear

[KWKloeber]

Great idea on the dowel.  I've thought of epoxy painting the dip stick grooooove white (maybe the whole tip.) Wonder if that would help?

Do you have the dowel marked to bottom it out on the tranny case?

ken

[Stu Jackson]

The "trick" for reading the dipstick has always been to simply roll it on a paper towel.  No muss, no fuss, instant cleanup and no extra work.

[KWKloeber]

The "trick" for reading the dipstick has always been to simply roll it on a paper towel.  No muss, no fuss, instant cleanup and no extra work.

Stu

I haven't tried that trick, but then I may have somewhat better access than y'all do -- and may be able to see it more easily. 

But you wipe the dipstick twice, correct?   As it's supposed to be read w/the threads disengaged, so the initial level/wipe is too high -- or since I've never done it that way, do you estimate "close enough" @ the first wipe?  I'd guess the threads are about 1 mm or so -- maybe close enough for non NASA work.

Anyhew on that, my brain isn't working and missing something obvious.  I'm not following you about extra work.  YBYCOM(ethod) but how is wiping a steel dowel (rightfully twice) different or less work than wiping a wooden one once?  If we could read the dipstick w/o wiping/reinserting it, I could say that it's saving one paper towel over the Bobg method, but that's not the case.

ken

[Stu Jackson]

The "trick" for reading the dipstick has always been to simply roll it on a paper towel.  No muss, no fuss, instant cleanup and no extra work.

>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>

But you wipe the dipstick twice, correct?   As it's supposed to be read w/the threads disengaged, so the initial level/wipe is too high -- or since I've never done it that way, do you estimate "close enough" @ the first wipe?  I'd guess the threads are about 1 mm or so -- maybe close enough for non NASA work.

Anyhew on that, my brain isn't working and missing something obvious.  I'm not following you about extra work.  YBYCOM(ethod) but how is wiping a steel dowel (rightfully twice) different or less work than wiping a wooden one once?  If we could read the dipstick w/o wiping/reinserting it, I could say that it's saving one paper towel over the Bobg method, but that's not the case.

My experience has been that the dipstick has already been removed and wiped (1st pass) in order to remove and replace the fluid.  The stick is already clean.

Drop the stick in and ROLL it on the paper towel.  If you've replaced the right amount of fluid, as I described earlier, the level should be fine.

If not, add some more fluid.  Use the dipstick again, and not another piece of anything.

After all, that's what it is for, isn't it?

I would find it odd if someone was using a dowel on their car engine to check the oil level.

[KWKloeber]

Stu

I ahhh ha, see I told you my brain wasn't working. 
I was thinking about level checks between servicing. 

Ken

[Bobg]

by the time I get the dipstick out, I have rubbed any fluid off the metal dipstick trying to get the dang thing out up to where I can see it, I have used the paper towel method but never trusted it because the fluid seems to permeate on the paper towel more than i think I read on the stick, I use the wooden dowel because I can clearly see where the fluid level is no matter how I manhandle it, I cut a notch in it to simulate the metal stick, it stains the dowel a bit.
And no, I would never use a wooden dowel to check my engine oil, generally engine dipsticks are readable and you don't slide your fingers all over them trying to get them out. I still have the oem heat exchanger which is in the way.  Anyway it works for me and takes the guess work out when I am down below  checking the fluid.

[Jim Hardesty]

FWIW  On my previous boat the fuel fill was directly over the fuel tank.  I made a fuel gage (dip stick) from copper pipe.  Scored it lightly with a pipe cutter at gallon increments and made a holder to keep it clean when not used.  Worked great after the copper aged it was real easy to read and I knew exactly how much to fill up.  Wish I could make one to work on Shamrock.
I don't find the OEM dipstick unreadable.  I do need a flash light and just look for the oil in the fill groove.
Jim

[mark_53]

Extract the fluid into a glass jar and mark the amount in the jar. That will tell you how much to replace. I've used Stu's method of rolling the stick on a paper towel. The level of oil can vary when you pull the stick out. Use the lowest marking on the towel as your level. Use both methods in combination.